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Old 09-22-2010, 04:53 PM
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Won't Start

I replaced the a lift in my SBC this week, the reintalled the manifold, hoses, adjusted valve lash, etc. I rotated the crank where the mark is on 0 on the plate and incerted the dist. I rotated the rotor so when I dropped it in all the way the rotor aligns with the #1 spark plug. All wires are hooked back up but now it won't start.

I removed the #1 spark plug and verified that the piston is at TDC with the crank mark and the rotor is at #1. When I try to start it I get a carb backfire but no start at all.

Could I be oof 180 degrees on the crank and would that cause this?

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Old 09-22-2010, 05:06 PM
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Yes, sounds like you are 180* off. Flip the distro and try again.
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:48 PM
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Sounds like you got the #1 cylinder timed OK, but I suspect you have the valves too tight. Please read and follow this tutorial. It may seem too elementary to you, but follow it anyway and then you'll have the procedure set in your head for next time.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...MENT_SBC_/_BBC
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:11 PM
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broken link

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Sounds like you got the #1 cylinder timed OK, but I suspect you have the valves too tight. Please read and follow this tutorial. It may seem too elementary to you, but follow it anyway and then you'll have the procedure set in your head for next time.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...MENT_SBC_/_BBC
Well written. I'm sure a very young person could follow it.

TI; your referral link is broke>>http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...top_dead_center
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duntov
Well written. I'm sure a very young person could follow it.

TI; your referral link is broke>>http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...top_dead_center
Thanks, should be valid again now...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:13 AM
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This is awsome info on so much better written than everything else I have been reading. Thanks and I will go through these steps and let you know how it turns out.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:51 PM
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I checked it at lunch and the dist was 180 out so I fixed that. I also used your step to reset the lash. This was by far the easiest way I have tried, thanks! I still have to put the wires back on later before I start it but it should be in there.
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:50 PM
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It starts now, idles good. I set the timing to 11 BTDC. When I put it into gear, forward or reverse it bogs and shuts off. What would cause that?
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsea
It starts now, idles good. I set the timing to 11 BTDC. When I put it into gear, forward or reverse it bogs and shuts off. What would cause that?
My first thought is vacuum leak, either external or internal. To find an external leak, use a propane bottle. Turn the valve on so that you have a small amount of gas coming out the nozzle. Do not light the propane. Move the nozzle around on the intake manifold/cylinder head sealing joints front to rear, then at the carb mounting pad all around. Also at any fittings into the manifold. If you have a power brake booster, sometimes the rubber diaphragm inside the booster can rupture and allow air into the motor, so disconnect the line to the booster and cap it off before you begin with the propane.
If there is a vacuum leak on the outside of the motor, the propane will correct the lean mixture that the motor is seeing and the crank speed will increase. Try this first, it doesn't cost much or take much time. If you don't find a leak, we will explore other possibilities such as an internal leak at the intake manifold/cylinder head interface on the bottom of the intake at the crankcase. Normally, this will draw oily vapors into the intake ports which can be seen as oily deposits on the spark plugs.
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