[eatonde]

Hey guys i just attempted to start my motor for the first time (since i've had it) I actually bought it from someone already assembled water pump to flywheel, distributor, and intake to oilpan. The motor had about 24-30 hours run time on it when i got it, but it's been sitting (wrapped in plastic w/ desicants) since Oct. of 2007.
It has: Domes
piston:KB119-.100 solid/-0.5 effective head volume w/ full floating wrist pins
Heads: stock 350 heads what ever came on the 69 chevelle 350, i think 76cc
Induction: holley 600 double pmper weiand accelerater intake
Cam: Lunati 300/300 adv. dur. w/ 515/515 lift bracket master 2
crank: eagle nodular, stock everything
rods:GM 5.7
deck: stock
fel-pro 350 overhual kit for gaskets, nuthing special

When i tried to through the fire to it, it tried like heck to start but just wouldn't, it would just get right on the edge of starting, like sputtering, like the timing is off, or some plugs are fowled, or not getting enough fuel, or the gas just aint strong enough. The only thing different in the way i have it set up and the way the guy before me had it set up carb and fuel pump, i put a mechanical pump back on it, he had it blocked off and was running an electric. also he was runnin a 750 DP and i got a 600 DP carb. according Kieth blacks measurements my piston with a stock deck height and 76cc head should be around 10.8:1. he said he always ran gas the was mixed 50/50 of 93oct/102oct racing fuel on the street and strait 102 at the track. Anyone got any suggestions/ comments/ ideas would be great. sorry to be so wordy, but this has really got me scratching the ole noggin. I have NEVER got my timing off on a SBC. i've always got it correctly the first time. but there's a 1st time for everything. thanks danny

[F&J]

99 percent of the time on this site for "no-start" is TIMING.







so, I will say the same




Seriously, a rebuilt motor, or a motor that was apart for any reason like just valves, should fire "instantly" !

[SSedan64]

Dumb question, but did you put a fuel pump pushrod in it?

[oldskoolmc]

the question is why did he only run it for 24-30 hours on the rebuild then pull it back out and store it for so long? Sitting for that long I'd check compression to check for valve or lifter issues and rings. If low compression then squirt alittle wd-40 or a bit of oil to seal rings and recheck compression. If it comes up it is a ring issue if it doesn't change it is valve issue. About the mechanical fuel pump rod. Did you try spraying carb clean or starting fluid when trying to start it? hope this will help get you going.

[74chevy454]

I was thinking the same thing did u forget the mechanical rod that runs off the cam when u put fuel pump on.

[eatonde]

no, the rod i definitely in, i just got it to start, but i had to keep it running, and it was very rough, almost like it was runnin on 3 or 4 cylinders.

Its gotta be the timing, I timed it the same way i would have timed a stock 350 (stock cam) will that cam throw my timing off? I just put the # 1 @TDC on compression and went 18436572, i know the order is right but not sure about the rest.

[F&J]

Originally Posted by eatonde

no, the rod i definitely in, i just got it to start, but i had to keep it running, and it was very rough, almost like it was runnin on 3 or 4 cylinders.

Its gotta be the timing, I timed it the same way i would have timed a stock 350 (stock cam) will that cam throw my timing off? I just put the # 1 @TDC on compression and went 18436572, i know the order is right but not sure about the rest.

Probably a bunch of wet plugs from trying to start it so many times.

Take them out, spray brake/carb cleaner on them and dry them good.

If it runs at all, you are close on the timing. Get it firing on all 8 before trying to set the timing either by ear or by a light.

[eatonde]

OK, i've never seen this happen, but i took all my plug wires and moved them back 1 post on the distributor ( instead of having #1 wire on the post that the rotor is pointing at @TDC) i started #1 on the post directly in front(right beside) the cap's plug in/hot wire/tach, which basically just retarded it a lot, and it ran "better" but still acted like it was missing on a few cylinders.
I'm gonna replace and re-gap all the plugs when i get off work today. I'm down to the ole' process of elimination.

Someone asked me on here yesterday "why the guy i bought it from ran it for 24-30 hours and pulled it out?" It was because right after he built this motor he took his 69' Chevelle to a car show (with this motor in it) and Won a "PRIZE" for best in show, A brand new 620HP GM572 crate motor (MSRP) around 15 grand, needless to say he wanted that one instead of this one. that the reason he gave me, he even took me around the block in the chevelle, and that baby was rockin.

[T-bucket23]

You need a timing light, why guess. I would also check the firing order one more time.

Chet

[41willys]

What distributor are you using?

Jason

[eatonde]

Hey fella's, i just wanted to let ya know that all is well now, i had the timing and firing order right. turns out i had 6 fuel fouled plugs, i guess they were already fouled when i bought the motor, He said he was having carb trouble. anyway, it's running and sounds great.

This may sound dumb, so please don't laugh at me or do if you want. makes me no difference as long as i get the help i need. I've never used a timing light, or even a Tab for that matter. I've alway's just set them by ear. The guy i got the motor from said it runs best at 30* total, and he couldn't remember if it was 8 or 10 initially, this motor has a tab. if i go buy a timing light, how do i know when i'm at 8 or10* initial and 30* total. It's runnin good right now but if i can make it better, i'd like to. or atleast know how to tell what its set at right now.
Thanks danny

[F&J]

This may sound dumb, so please don't laugh

No such thing as dumb questions IMO.


Two types of timing lights.


One style is most common for setting the base timing.

The other has a feature that enables you to also "quickly" check the total as well as base timings.


If you only had the first one, you can still check total, IF you have a way to put accurate degree marks on the balancer hub.

[eatonde]

so how do i use it, i've seen it done but i personally have never needed to use one so i never paid attention.

[toecutter]

Induction lead goes on the #1 plug wire Pos lead to pos batt, and neg to neg batt.

the balancer should have a mark on it, the way I would do it for base is,

Aim the light down there while engine is runing, Carefull of the fan!

to the left of the timing cover, timer pointer is BTDC. about an inch of that would put you around 8 degs.

while you concentrate on the pointer and mark on the balancer have a buddy do the, rotating the dist duty. and just call out to him which way to rotate.


standing in front of the car looking down at things,
put the mark on the balancer about an inch or so to the left of the timing cover pointer, that would roughly put you at base timing. this is ofcourse if the timing cover only has a pin sticking out that denotes TDC. I've seen them B4.

you should have a timing scale on the timing cover tho or no? each outward notch to the left of the big inward notch on the scale is 4 degs. you know what I mean? cos i'm kinna getting confused my self here..... help!!!

[eatonde]

i do have the timing scale tab on there. can anyone else elaborate on this, an inch away from what? i'm real confused now. Do you guys think it will be ok just buy ear, cuz where i have it now is where it sounds best, if i move it a hair in either direction in goes to sputterin.