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Old 11-14-2005, 05:46 PM
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Won't start...Please help

My 79 Chevy truck w/ a 350 won't start

I've played with my distributor advancing it and retarding it.

I've put 2 different carbs in it.

I've quadrupled checked my wires to be sure they are in the correct firing order.

I had it running the other night, and I grabbed a spark plug wire and got zapped. That triggered me to replace the wires on it. Since I got zapped, I have not been able to start it. Is there something that I could have shorted out possibly?

Please help.

Thanks once again.

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Old 11-14-2005, 05:54 PM
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I`d check and see if it has spark, do a simple spark test. Are you sure you didn`t knock the power wire off?
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Old 11-14-2005, 06:10 PM
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Thats my next step. I'm also going to replace the coil (which isn't that old) and see what happeneds.

I'm checked all my wires to be sure they are in place...not just the spark
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:28 PM
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Doc here,

I'm not sure what your asking...

Do you have NO spark at all, or spark and no start?

Assuming HEI and NOT aftermarket Ignition, Run a wire directly to the battery from the terminal marked "BATT" on the HEI..Crank it, If it fires, and runs you have a secondary Ignition problem..your losing spark (coil power ) during crank cycles.

Next to verify, get a DVOM, set it for V X 50 and have someone crank it..if it has 12 volts on "RUN" and drops to zero in "START" your losing cranking power to the coil.

Go to the solenoid and locate the terminal marked "I" or "R" on it, see if it has a wire, If not look around for a "Stray" and If you can't locate one, add a wire from there to the Wire going to the "BATT" terminal, and parallel it in.

To test your coil, using your DVOM set to R X 1 measure across the primary side, BATT to TACH, It should read less than on ohm..The measure the secondary side, BATT to the rotor pickup inside the cap..It should read between 6000 and 30k ohms for a standard HEI. Check the carbon pickup in the cap also to be sure it isn't broken or past runout..

If that's not the problem, and voltages are good, suspect the module, Pull it and take it to the auto parts store and have it tested.

Test it several times to "Heat" it up..If you need a new one, have that one tested BEFORE you leave the store..

The fail rate on those is abysmal out of the box..and once you leave, It becomes your problem, and will only screw up your troubleshoot..(It can't be the module..It's brand new..)

In either case replacement or reinstall of the old..DO NOT forget to clean off the old heatsink compound and apply new compound..(or you really need a module in a few weeks..)

If that Doesn't fix the problem, Then the magnetic pick up is probably bad..Ohm it out by getting the specs for it Or set it on a High Star, and pass a mailable Screwdriver past it..the meter will jump if it's working at all...

Testing spark is best done with any old timing light, to any wire..On a modern HEI if it's sparking at all, It will strobe at crank speed..This eliminated the possibility of getting bit..and aceing a module from spurious feedback ..


Last edited by docvette; 11-14-2005 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Added Info..
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