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Old 10-17-2013, 08:54 PM
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Wood Dash

I am contemplating making a wood dash for an open roadster. Did a search here, and found a thread from 2006 recommending going no thinner than 1/4". Am thinking that might be too thin. Thinking more like 3/8- 1/2".

Figuring on 6-8 coats of clear with a couple on the back side to keep it from changing shape.

Any other tips or thoughts that might be helpful?

Would you cut out a glove box, or leave it alone?

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Old 10-17-2013, 10:43 PM
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Up to you on the glove box..they can be convenient..I would go with veneer on a metal backing myself..

Sam
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:46 AM
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wood dash

If you go wood. you would want to use a good grade of cabinet grade , usually baltic birch 1/2 they use for drawer constructon. It has a lot more plys and stays stable. and you could overlay with some exotic vineer. You would probably have to go to a cabinet shop to get a piece. a glove box depends on your layout and how much room you have.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:31 PM
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i use solid walnut and other exotic wood. i use 3/4 in so i can router the edges and such. i use envirotech finish on them .
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:37 PM
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DAAAAAAMN that is a beautiful dash Shine! HOLY COW that is a piece of art to hang on the wall!

Brian
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:53 PM
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i love working with wood. bought one of those pos wabbit dashes years ago. veneer over particle wood .
i make overhead consoles and floor consoles .
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:27 PM
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I made my dash in my T-bucket out of Curley Maple and it looked great and it is very durable. For I finish I used Truoil and hand rubbed about 10 coats on. It is a great finish, easy to touch up and made to handle outside weather on gunstocks.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the ideas guys. After reading your responses, I am going to use Walnut. A cabinet guy I work with is helping me on this. He suggested finish sanded to 1/2". This will basically be surface mounted, so I don't want to go too thick that I can't get my controls through the wood because it is too thick. My plan is to use automotive clearcoat for the final finish. I've used it before and it worked well. It has UV protection and I can get a nice finish that I can buff with a wheel.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:29 PM
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Why would you use automotive clear coat on wood? Would you use spar varnish on the exterior of your vehicle? Use products meant to be used on wood.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:40 PM
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Dan,
When I was first told I could use it, I didn't believe it either. I tried a two part marine epoxy, I tried a number of other finishes. Of all of them, the 2K clear works well. It does't react if gas get spilled on it. And you can power buff it. You just need to get about 5-7 coats on. And has UV protection.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:48 AM
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dash

when i did my Tbucket dash i used 3/4" solid wood.. called bombia from africa.. any ways.. pre-think your key switch and other switchs for the wood may be too thick to just install.. you'll need to recess the backs so they fit out the front. maybe.
also used 3 coats of marine poly for finish..
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill View Post
when i did my Tbucket dash i used 3/4" solid wood.. called bombia from africa.. any ways.. pre-think your key switch and other switchs for the wood may be too thick to just install.. you'll need to recess the backs so they fit out the front. maybe.
also used 3 coats of marine poly for finish..
Yeah good point Bill. I had already thought about this, but thought I would discuss my plan here after you mentioned it. I've already made a template out of sheetmetal. I've laid out my hole locations on the template.

I've measured each switch, etc. The appear to have 1/2" of threaded material in front of the retaining nut. My plan is to go to the back side of the dash, using a drill press and Forstner bit to drill a recess. Then, I am going to reinforce the recess with a washer.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:26 AM
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i used bubinga from africa in my 46 . hardest wood i have ever worked with but was really beautiful wood . i burned up a couple of bits on it. does this look the same bill ??? wouldn't swear to the name or spelling .
over the years i have found automotive urethanes fail over wood . most wood will tend to gas out in sunlight causing bubbles.

i also routered out the back for switches.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
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i used bubinga from africa in my 46 . hardest wood i have ever worked with but was really beautiful wood . i burned up a couple of bits on it. does this look the same bill ??? wouldn't swear to the name or spelling .
over the years i have found automotive urethanes fail over wood . most wood will tend to gas out in sunlight causing bubbles.

i also routered out the back for switches.
How long before the 2k failed? I've had a bed in a pickup I did with the stuff for two years, and it is all good.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:46 AM
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it really depends on the wood . how dry it is and the type. this bed was done in 05 . it has held up better than others. it was sealed well with a wood varathane followed by urethane clear. dont be fooled by uv protection in clears. this walnut turned lighter in a couple of years. wood does not do well in sunlight . there are too many quality finishes made for wood today to use automotive products.
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