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Old 08-09-2007, 07:10 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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The wood in vintage auto

would like to know more about the wood in vintage auto.

want to embark on some wood repair/replacement

what kind of wood do i use aok, ash and were can i buy wood blanks that i can cut to shape easy as going to homedepot or wood place. expensive?
anyone try this

I am confident that i can do this. I am aware of the places where i can buy the kits.

are there any site that document this repair in form of pictures.
has any one done this on this site???


THANKS IN ADVANCE

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Old 08-09-2007, 07:24 PM
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why not build a metalframework(no termites to worry about?)
Shane
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:26 PM
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Most cars used ash. Hardwoods are very expensive at a retail store, plus the thick stuff you would need would be tons of money.

I'm in northest Ct, ash grows wild here and there are local sawmills around the state that will cut to your specs.

Oak is too heavy and difficult to work with.

The cars used a lot of finger joints, those are best done on a shaper with a big bit. They used real deep finger joints to get more glued surface area, but maybe you could get by with a more common joint using the modern stronger glues today.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:30 PM
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I agree on using metal square or rectangle tubing where possible, but I saw pics of some parts of your car, and wood in some places may be easier. That looks like a big project either way.
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:05 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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How expensive do you thinnk it wood be for a 12 ft 2x6 of ash were you are.

was thinking of replacing with metal but am not to sure if i want to do so.

would like to replace the wood aaround the door hindges just for not so i can fit the doors on

theres got too be some wbsites out there documenting this
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:32 PM
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Up in Mystic Conn where the wooden boat guys are you can find any kind of wood you can think of and you can also find the people who can make about anything out of wood..If you get completely lost head on up there and I imagine there is someone there who can help you..

Sam
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Old 08-09-2007, 10:39 PM
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Take a look at how Whippetguy built his car. A combination of wood and steel structure.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31chevy
would like to know more about the wood in vintage auto.

want to embark on some wood repair/replacement

what kind of wood do i use aok, ash and were can i buy wood blanks that i can cut to shape easy as going to homedepot or wood place. expensive?
anyone try this

I am confident that i can do this. I am aware of the places where i can buy the kits.

are there any site that document this repair in form of pictures.
has any one done this on this site???


THANKS IN ADVANCE
31Chevy I replaced some of the wood on my 25 Chevy with Ash it is a very good choice and can be gotten easily from most saw mills. But I agree with the metal frame suggestion I am constantly tweaking and tightening up doors These cars are old the screws are loose and they were not designed for the horsepower & torque we now put on them. I am getting together the tools and parts to build a new body for mine with a complete metal sub structure from 3/4" tube.
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:56 AM
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Ash is a good choice, also oak. If you need to be on the cheap, you can get a lot of what you need from old skids. A lot of them are made from hard wood.
Dave
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:16 AM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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if I was to use square tubeing for the vertical posts where the door hindges bolt onto how would I fasten the hidges on same way as with the wood.

the three hindge bolts that would go through the sq tubeing i would think would need three horizontal cylindrical metal shafts to add stuctural support to the tubing right.


also if i was to go the metal route how would i do the "bottom channels" that go from the front of the cowl to the front of the wheel arch

most mill sell ash would it be more expensive than metal
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:51 AM
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HEEEEY. Just visited your project journal and looks like u are moving along quickly, and motivates me to get crackin' on mine.
There is a great article in sept .issue of Street Rodder mag. on replacing wood in a 33 chev.with steel. That would be the same as yours. You MUST look at it even if only while standing at the mag. rack.
I have seen other articles on replacing wood and it can be done and judging from what I have seen u do I think u would be very happy with the results. I only replaced the wood that was bad on my sedan. . partially replaced the sills by makeing lap joints and glued and bolted together. use waterproof glue.,bolt and c clamp till set.I also glued up and used thru bolts oin other areas . I even used some screw nails.
I used oak and found it was too hard to work with. Somthing a little sorter. Poplar and ash is what chevy used.
Keep up the good work
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:56 PM
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re: The wood in vintage auto

I use to use hard maple, strong and easy to work for me. I spent most of my life building fine furniture. But most are right when they say to use ash, and dont use oak unless you use white oak.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:03 PM
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CT Ash

I'm from CT also and think a word on using sawmill wood is in order.

Wood from a sawmill will not be dried. Wood should be dried and kiln dried if at all possible. Otherwise, the wood you shape today will have a whole new shape tomorrow.

Look in the back of a copy of Fine Woodworking magazine and you'll find lots of sources for finish grade Ash or any other wood.

Fingerjointing will make the finished product more stable since the various sections will each try to warp in a unique way rather than the entire piece making a uniform attempt at transforming itself to a whole new configuration.

Also, seal any wood entirely on all sides and ends completely to exclude moisture and keep it stable.

Just my $.02 worth
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Old 08-11-2007, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBill
I'm from CT also and think a word on using sawmill wood is in order.

Wood from a sawmill will not be dried. Wood should be dried and kiln dried if at all possible. Otherwise, the wood you shape today will have a whole new shape tomorrow.

Look in the back of a copy of Fine Woodworking magazine and you'll find lots of sources for finish grade Ash or any other wood.

Fingerjointing will make the finished product more stable since the various sections will each try to warp in a unique way rather than the entire piece making a uniform attempt at transforming itself to a whole new configuration.

Also, seal any wood entirely on all sides and ends completely to exclude moisture and keep it stable.

Just my $.02 worth
I beg to differ with you many sawmills kiln dry there wood!
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Old 08-14-2007, 10:50 AM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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if I was to use square tubeing for the vertical posts where the door hindges bolt onto how would I fasten the hidges on same way as with the wood.

the three hindge bolts that would go through the sq tubeing i would think would need three horizontal cylindrical metal shafts to add stuctural support to the tubing right.
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