Hot Rod Forum banner

Woodbed for a 53 F100

6K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  kilometers86 
#1 ·
Hi guys - I'm the new guy on the block and I was hoping that someone out there may have a couple of tips on how to put a woodbed in my 53 F100. I'm living in Germany so I basically need to do it all from scratch or with what I can buy here. And trust me a woodbed isn't in every store in Germany. I'm wondering what thickness wood I'll need and what type is best to use.

Any info on the subject would help me out.
Thanks.
Dave
 
#2 ·
A while back there was a post on this board about the dimensions to use when cutting wood to make a bed for our trucks. I did a quick search but could not come up with it. Spend some time searching here and I am sure you will find it.
I purchased a wood kit here in the U.S. that was made using red oak. When I was shopping around I was told that Oak was the way to go because of is durability and resistance to warpage. The salesman told me to stay away from using pine in the bed. Anyway, the color of the red oak wood came out real nice after applying a few coats of POR-15 Glisten clear coat over it.
Good luck with the bed project.
 
#5 ·
Are you looking for an original bed or a custom bed? If you are looking at a custom bed make sure the box is together and squared up. Measure the width of the bed. You should have at least a couple of dividers in the bed. you will need this for expansion and contraction with the weather (If you try to go with a one piece bed, it will crack, I have first hand experience). The bed should be at least 5/8inch material. You can either use standard bed board separators or make your own from aluminum. I used aluminum, and counter sunk flat head screws to make hold downs for the hold downs. The edges of the bed boards should be routed to provide slots for the separators. You can either use a marine varnish (Super high gloss) or standard automotive clear coat to finish the boards.
 
#6 ·
I have used a produce called Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer for treating the wood used in boat floors, and transoms, and on wood water skis.
It is originally pretty thin when mixed together, and then soaks into the pores of the wood, and it takes a few days to a week for the solvents to evaporate.
It does work as a good primer for wood, and can be sanded, and then other stuff can be applied over the top of it.
With the boat parts, I used marine epoxy, and fiberglass cloth, on the warerskis, I just sanded, and then shot auto clear coat on top of it.
 
#9 ·
Bed finishing

Hey Dave,
Good luck on the type of wood but Red Oak is probably your best choice. The routing tips and metal strips are a must for wood expansion due to heat and cold. When it comes time to stain and finish your wood, time is important. I am a contract house painter for 22 years, built a 54 GMC with a wood bed and I have finished a board or two in my time.I have found these steps work best for me. The best way to apply your finish stain will be to brush the entire length of the board and then wipe with a cloth in one direction, one side at a time. I prefer to use an oil based semi-transparent stain. The best finish coat product I have found is exterior marine type varnish,the amount of gloss is your personal preference, but marine is the type you will need to use. Your application will be in several steps: Step 1 will be to sand several times starting with 60 grit followed by 100 then down to 200 grit sand paper before you stain. After allowing the stain to dry following the manufacturers recommendations, sand again 100 and 200 grit paper., Step2:Make a mixture of your finish product, marine varnish for example, to a ratio of 25% varnish and 75% paint thinner. This mixture will just absorb into the wood. Apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper, just to "knock off" any foreign matter which may have attached to the surface, and wipe surface with a tack cloth. Step3: Mix your finish product, this time to a ratio of 50% marine varnish, for example, and 50% paint thinner. Again apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry for 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper and wipe with a tack cloth. Step 4: Mix your finish product, but this time to a ratio of 75% marine varnish, for example and 25% paint Thinner. Apply this to the entire surface, allow to dry 48 hours and lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper. Wiper entire surface with a tack cloth. Step 5: Apply 1 or recommended 2 coats of 100% finish coat to the entire surface. Allow surface to completely dry between coats and lightly sand between coats. You will find these steps will leave your bed wood, or any wood, with a mirror like finish that will be both durable and beautiful to look at
 
#10 ·
pnt4u2 said:
Hey Dave,
Good luck on the type of wood but Red Oak is probably your best choice. The routing tips and metal strips are a must for wood expansion due to heat and cold. When it comes time to stain and finish your wood, time is important. I am a contract house painter for 22 years, built a 54 GMC with a wood bed and I have finished a board or two in my time.I have found these steps work best for me. The best way to apply your finish stain will be to brush the entire length of the board and then wipe with a cloth in one direction, one side at a time. I prefer to use an oil based semi-transparent stain. The best finish coat product I have found is exterior marine type varnish,the amount of gloss is your personal preference, but marine is the type you will need to use. Your application will be in several steps: Step 1 will be to sand several times starting with 60 grit followed by 100 then down to 200 grit sand paper before you stain. After allowing the stain to dry following the manufacturers recommendations, sand again 100 and 200 grit paper., Step2:Make a mixture of your finish product, marine varnish for example, to a ratio of 25% varnish and 75% paint thinner. This mixture will just absorb into the wood. Apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper, just to "knock off" any foreign matter which may have attached to the surface, and wipe surface with a tack cloth. Step3: Mix your finish product, this time to a ratio of 50% marine varnish, for example, and 50% paint thinner. Again apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry for 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper and wipe with a tack cloth. Step 4: Mix your finish product, but this time to a ratio of 75% marine varnish, for example and 25% paint Thinner. Apply this to the entire surface, allow to dry 48 hours and lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper. Wiper entire surface with a tack cloth. Step 5: Apply 1 or recommended 2 coats of 100% finish coat to the entire surface. Allow surface to completely dry between coats and lightly sand between coats. You will find these steps will leave your bed wood, or any wood, with a mirror like finish that will be both durable and beautiful to look at
pnt4u2,
Great advice. The only problem I have with using the high gloss marine varnish is that it seems to attract dust like an old TV set. I learned this after the first coat, and ended up putting a tarp over it before I put the second coat on.
 
#11 ·
Very cool…

pnt4u2 said:
Hey Dave,
Good luck on the type of wood but Red Oak is probably your best choice. The routing tips and metal strips are a must for wood expansion due to heat and cold. When it comes time to stain and finish your wood, time is important. I am a contract house painter for 22 years, built a 54 GMC with a wood bed and I have finished a board or two in my time.I have found these steps work best for me. The best way to apply your finish stain will be to brush the entire length of the board and then wipe with a cloth in one direction, one side at a time. I prefer to use an oil based semi-transparent stain. The best finish coat product I have found is exterior marine type varnish,the amount of gloss is your personal preference, but marine is the type you will need to use. Your application will be in several steps: Step 1 will be to sand several times starting with 60 grit followed by 100 then down to 200 grit sand paper before you stain. After allowing the stain to dry following the manufacturers recommendations, sand again 100 and 200 grit paper., Step2:Make a mixture of your finish product, marine varnish for example, to a ratio of 25% varnish and 75% paint thinner. This mixture will just absorb into the wood. Apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper, just to "knock off" any foreign matter which may have attached to the surface, and wipe surface with a tack cloth. Step3: Mix your finish product, this time to a ratio of 50% marine varnish, for example, and 50% paint thinner. Again apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry for 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper and wipe with a tack cloth. Step 4: Mix your finish product, but this time to a ratio of 75% marine varnish, for example and 25% paint Thinner. Apply this to the entire surface, allow to dry 48 hours and lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper. Wiper entire surface with a tack cloth. Step 5: Apply 1 or recommended 2 coats of 100% finish coat to the entire surface. Allow surface to completely dry between coats and lightly sand between coats. You will find these steps will leave your bed wood, or any wood, with a mirror like finish that will be both durable and beautiful to look at
Beautiful advice! Thanks so much… I will definitely follow your advice here, and also the advice on using the tarp. Thanks guys.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top