![]() |
|
|
|
||||||
|
A while back there was a post on this board about the dimensions to use when cutting wood to make a bed for our trucks. I did a quick search but could not come up with it. Spend some time searching here and I am sure you will find it.
I purchased a wood kit here in the U.S. that was made using red oak. When I was shopping around I was told that Oak was the way to go because of is durability and resistance to warpage. The salesman told me to stay away from using pine in the bed. Anyway, the color of the red oak wood came out real nice after applying a few coats of POR-15 Glisten clear coat over it. Good luck with the bed project. |
|
||||
|
53 f100 bed
found dimensions for making wood boards-not computer savvy to post online though- so send me a message with e-mail and i will send dimensions to you
|
|
||||||
|
Are you looking for an original bed or a custom bed? If you are looking at a custom bed make sure the box is together and squared up. Measure the width of the bed. You should have at least a couple of dividers in the bed. you will need this for expansion and contraction with the weather (If you try to go with a one piece bed, it will crack, I have first hand experience). The bed should be at least 5/8inch material. You can either use standard bed board separators or make your own from aluminum. I used aluminum, and counter sunk flat head screws to make hold downs for the hold downs. The edges of the bed boards should be routed to provide slots for the separators. You can either use a marine varnish (Super high gloss) or standard automotive clear coat to finish the boards.
|
|
|||||
|
I have used a produce called Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer for treating the wood used in boat floors, and transoms, and on wood water skis.
It is originally pretty thin when mixed together, and then soaks into the pores of the wood, and it takes a few days to a week for the solvents to evaporate. It does work as a good primer for wood, and can be sanded, and then other stuff can be applied over the top of it. With the boat parts, I used marine epoxy, and fiberglass cloth, on the warerskis, I just sanded, and then shot auto clear coat on top of it. |
|
|||||
|
53 Ford F100 Bed
Thanks for all the replies guys , this is still a very active project so I really appreciate it.
At: kilometers86 - I sure would love it if you could mail that info over to me. Email is: dave@dbdesigns.de |
|
|||||
|
e-addy
your pushing it putting your addy on the page for every wack-o to send spam.... kilometer should do a privite msg to u with his addy included.. click on user name and u can do that.. keeps the spam down...
|
|
|||||
|
Bed finishing
Hey Dave,
Good luck on the type of wood but Red Oak is probably your best choice. The routing tips and metal strips are a must for wood expansion due to heat and cold. When it comes time to stain and finish your wood, time is important. I am a contract house painter for 22 years, built a 54 GMC with a wood bed and I have finished a board or two in my time.I have found these steps work best for me. The best way to apply your finish stain will be to brush the entire length of the board and then wipe with a cloth in one direction, one side at a time. I prefer to use an oil based semi-transparent stain. The best finish coat product I have found is exterior marine type varnish,the amount of gloss is your personal preference, but marine is the type you will need to use. Your application will be in several steps: Step 1 will be to sand several times starting with 60 grit followed by 100 then down to 200 grit sand paper before you stain. After allowing the stain to dry following the manufacturers recommendations, sand again 100 and 200 grit paper., Step2:Make a mixture of your finish product, marine varnish for example, to a ratio of 25% varnish and 75% paint thinner. This mixture will just absorb into the wood. Apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper, just to "knock off" any foreign matter which may have attached to the surface, and wipe surface with a tack cloth. Step3: Mix your finish product, this time to a ratio of 50% marine varnish, for example, and 50% paint thinner. Again apply this mixture to the entire surface and allow to dry for 48 hours. Lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper and wipe with a tack cloth. Step 4: Mix your finish product, but this time to a ratio of 75% marine varnish, for example and 25% paint Thinner. Apply this to the entire surface, allow to dry 48 hours and lightly sand with 200 grit sand paper. Wiper entire surface with a tack cloth. Step 5: Apply 1 or recommended 2 coats of 100% finish coat to the entire surface. Allow surface to completely dry between coats and lightly sand between coats. You will find these steps will leave your bed wood, or any wood, with a mirror like finish that will be both durable and beautiful to look at |
|
||||||
|
Quote:
Great advice. The only problem I have with using the high gloss marine varnish is that it seems to attract dust like an old TV set. I learned this after the first coat, and ended up putting a tarp over it before I put the second coat on. |
|
|||||
|
Very cool…
Quote:
|
|
|||||
|
Bruce Horkey has been doing truck beds for ages....
http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/page23.html Another link... 1956 ford f100 bedwood replacement...help? |
|
|
| Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| How to Pro-Street a '53 Ford F100 | BigDaddyBaize | Transmission - Rearend | 1 | 02-16-2003 06:09 PM |
| 53 F100 rearend What do i need? | 53F100 | Transmission - Rearend | 7 | 01-24-2003 04:29 AM |
| caddy 1/4's on 53 chevy | jeffs53? | Body - Exterior | 3 | 01-19-2003 07:35 PM |
| 53 ford f100 rear window | tgregoire | Body - Exterior | 1 | 07-16-2002 06:20 PM |
| suicide doors on a 53 ford f100 | tgregoire | Body - Exterior | 0 | 07-16-2002 09:18 AM |