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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:44 PM
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Isky Hi-Rev Series Solid Flat Tappet Camshafts 201025 - SummitRacing.com

Here is a little Isky solid I like for your combo too.
Similar but single pattern on a snotty 108LSA.
very responsive street solid. can use 1.6 in/ex rockers for more net lift.
278-278 240-240@.050 .480" @1.5 108 LSA.
.512" w 1.6 rockers.

ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:03 PM
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Well I think due to the budget theme, and lack of knowledge or experience with anything other then hft cams, I will tell the young lad I'm not interested in the 292 but will likely order up the XE284 you had suggested earlier.....for simplicity's sake and cost effectiveness....I picked up a running 350 from a 70's truck this week for pennies, it needs to be rebuilt so i will likely see how far I can take the motor in the car now, including the new cam and maybe some gas in the spring, and start putting together a "real" motor for when this one goes boom.....this way its a slow build when money allows it and keeps the wife happy.....and I'm having way too much fun with the junk I have now for so little cash invested that i can justify a shiny new cam......
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:21 PM
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Thats too bad you are wimping out on the Lunati solid cam.
What is the big problem with this?
All the high performance corvettes had a solid lifter cam
Like the 1970-71 LT-1. This lunati cam is very similar to that.
Its a street cam designed for the street. These cams outperform hyd cams.
I bet this solid cam will run quieter at idle than the comp XE284H-10

Set the lash once twice a year. real easy. What knowledge do you need. Set the lash , shut the hood and drive it.
You don;t need to touch it for 6000 to 10000 miles.. Cold lash check takes 30 minutes to do, once or twice a year.
No other knowledge is needed. Mpre power , more rpm, what's not to like.

"EO IC"

you set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open... You set the exhaust valve when the intake valve just closes (back on seat)... you set the lash cold (easy) a bit tighter than the hot lash spec (hot lash is a pain and not nessessary) .004" ot .006" tighter is just right.
This all you need to know. repeat after me "EO IC"

You don't need to build another engine.
This is a real engine.

this lunati cam will work with your 981 springs ( correctly shimeed.
The comp xe284 needs a better spring.

There is no reason why this motor will come unglued. It will out live you.
You are getting all off on a tangent of building based on some emotional fear.
Fear of a solid lifter cam, fear the motor will come unglued.

Ya the 292H would not be your best bet for this one. The Lunati is....

Assuming you did a decent job on your heads,,, this is a easy solid 12 second ET all street performer
that will serve you well for many many years.

( An you will be all set up for a 150HP nitrous system that will rule the streets in Ottawa for
peanuts.,,,, Well... as long as I don't show up there LOL)

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-09-2012 at 10:50 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Well I think due to the budget theme, and lack of knowledge or experience with anything other then hft cams, I will tell the young lad I'm not interested in the 292 but will likely order up the XE284 you had suggested earlier.....for simplicity's sake and cost effectiveness....I picked up a running 350 from a 70's truck this week for pennies, it needs to be rebuilt so i will likely see how far I can take the motor in the car now, including the new cam and maybe some gas in the spring, and start putting together a "real" motor for when this one goes boom.....this way its a slow build when money allows it and keeps the wife happy.....and I'm having way too much fun with the junk I have now for so little cash invested that i can justify a shiny new cam......
Got to agree with the xe 284h but have you also looked at the magun 280h and the 286h cams. More of an old school cam. I like these better the xe cams are good but seem to be harder on the valve train. For roller the xe is very good and roller valve train and lifters take the abuse of the "more power under the curve" sales pitch design a little better. Heavier cars may get more out of the wider power band and be worth the shorter life cycle.

Solid is not really that bad. Many ppl run them on the street. Tight lash cams are easy to live with. Also put up with todays more agressive lobe profiles. For dual pattern extreame lobe profile type cams. Where the valves are opening faster and staying open longer i would think the isk F-bird recommended should be a pretty good choice. Once the valves seat in they dont need to be adjusted very often. Use poly locks and proper valve train for the cams rpm help alot. I herd another member hear mention that the dodge dart was solid lift and most of the owners didnt know it. Plus many a vette cam with solids. They do work well but so do hyd once its all said and done. Now if its a bracket car solid is the best choice for run after run performance.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Thats too bad you are wimping out on the Lunati solid cam.
What is the big problem with this?
All the high performance corvettes had a solid lifter cam
Like the 1970-71 LT-1. This lunati cam is very similar to that.
Its a street cam designed for the street. These cams outperform hyd cams.
I bet this solid cam will run quieter at idle than the comp XE284H-10

Set the lash once twice a year. real easy. What knowledge do you need. Set the lash , shut the hood and drive it.
You don;t need to touch it for 6000 to 10000 miles.. Cold lash check takes 30 minutes to do, once or twice a year.
No other knowledge is needed. Mpre power , more rpm, what's not to like.

"EO IC"

you set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open... You set the exhaust valve when the intake valve just closes (back on seat)... you set the lash cold (easy) a bit tighter than the hot lash spec (hot lash is a pain and not nessessary) .004" ot .006" tighter is just right.
This all you need to know. repeat after me "EO IC"

You don't need to build another engine.
This is a real engine.

this lunati cam will work with your 981 springs ( correctly shimeed.
The comp xe284 needs a better spring.

There is no reason why this motor will come unglued. It will out live you.
You are getting all off on a tangent of building based on some emotional fear.
Fear of a solid lifter cam, fear the motor will come unglued.

Ya the 292H would not be your best bet for this one. The Lunati is....

Assuming you did a decent job on your heads,,, this is a easy solid 12 second ET all street performer
that will serve you well for many many years.

( An you will be all set up for a 150HP nitrous system that will rule the streets in Ottawa for
peanuts.,,,, Well... as long as I don't show up there LOL)
Lmao.....
Its not fear, I'm not afraid of breaking anything, my junk gets abused and driven like it owes me money....this is more of a cost situation....what are solidlifters and cam worth etc etc...I have to admit, valvetrain sounds are cool, when there supposed to be therelol....I just have no idea what lifters, cost, etc etc.....its more ignorance then fear....
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lmao.....
Its not fear, I'm not afraid of breaking anything, my junk gets abused and driven like it owes me money....this is more of a cost situation....what are solidlifters and cam worth etc etc...I have to admit, valvetrain sounds are cool, when there supposed to be therelol....I just have no idea what lifters, cost, etc etc.....its more ignorance then fear....
That Lunati cam will be a LOT better in your application than the 284XE. the 284XE is still TOO BIG.

As for cost, there usually isn't any more to go solid rather than hdraulic- BUT if you can afford the nicer face oiling lifters they have been proven to help durability. They're about $40 more i think.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lmao.....
Its not fear, I'm not afraid of breaking anything, my junk gets abused and driven like it owes me money....this is more of a cost situation....what are solidlifters and cam worth etc etc...I have to admit, valvetrain sounds are cool, when there supposed to be therelol....I just have no idea what lifters, cost, etc etc.....its more ignorance then fear....
Cost is more than el-cheapo hyd lifters but less than a good quaility hyd. Lifters. Solids have no moving parts so they are lighter and cost a little less. Most of the cost savings goes into cam mfg. Pockets. But once you are thinking about 6k rpm or higher and anti pump up lifters solids get more affordable and work better. They can push the engine beyond there normal rpm as hyd pump up and limit rpm solids do not.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:27 AM
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If this is primarily a street driven vehicle that isn't street or track raced for money, you will kick yourself every time you drive it w/almost all of the cams mentioned on this thread. The cam in it now is just a little smaller than what will make an outstanding ride for everything except the 1/2 of 1% of the time that it's at WOT all the way through the gears.

You said yourself it runs good to 6K rpm, so what is it you hope to gain by going w/a cam several magnitudes more radical than what is in it now? Because I can tell you from experience that an over cammed engine is a real turd on the street. Unless you are taking it to the track this is a real waste.

I see this all too often here. There are max acceleration combos (high compression, big lumpy cams, loose torque converters, low rear gears) that when driven on the street- where there's no traction and LE to contend with- are just no fun other than the fender rattling idle.

Then there are all around combos that have good torque below 4K rpm and do not require the other less street friendly parts. You are heading towards a max acceleration combo- and for the vast majority of the time and for the vast majority of the drivers out there, this will not be any fun at all on a regular basis driven on the street. Just being the devil's advocate here, giving a bit of a reality check. If you're fine w/the downsides, then go for it and good luck. And save up for a decent set of heads. At least then the cam can give you what it really has.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:28 AM
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I like that Isky, I also like the numbers on this
Howards Cams Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL11100208DL - SummitRacing.com
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:03 AM
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If this is primarily a street driven vehicle that isn't street or track raced for money, you will kick yourself every time you drive it w/almost all of the cams mentioned on this thread. The cam in it now is just a little smaller than what will make an outstanding ride for everything except the 1/2 of 1% of the time that it's at WOT all the way through the gears.

You said yourself it runs good to 6K rpm, so what is it you hope to gain by going w/a cam several magnitudes more radical than what is in it now? Because I can tell you from experience that an over cammed engine is a real turd on the street. Unless you are taking it to the track this is a real waste.

I see this all too often here. There are max acceleration combos (high compression, big lumpy cams, loose torque converters, low rear gears) that when driven on the street- where there's no traction and LE to contend with- are just no fun other than the fender rattling idle.

Then there are all around combos that have good torque below 4K rpm and do not require the other less street friendly parts. You are heading towards a max acceleration combo- and for the vast majority of the time and for the vast majority of the drivers out there, this will not be any fun at all on a regular basis driven on the street. Just being the devil's advocate here, giving a bit of a reality check. If you're fine w/the downsides, then go for it and good luck.
Because that's exactly what I enjoy in a "toy".....here's my take, I have this car cause its loud, bright, slightly obnoxious, and fun as hell.....yep, admittadly there's a bit of "thmpr cam" mentality, I like rolling into the Fri night cruise sounding mean and nasty, I like how it feels when i hit the key and its hard to get it warmed up, trying to get it to idle, snarly....I love it....but where I differ from the thmpr CAm crowd, i hit our local dragstrip cruise night often, right or wrong I hit the Fri night street stuff occasionally, hell, I have a quarter mile marked on a back road close to home that I regularly stop all by myself, and run it till the shift light comes on in 3rd. Just for me, all alone, cause its awesome....so I want it to run as good as it sounds.....I like maximum effort, im OK with piss poor gas mileage, a rough idle, a big converter, because its not a daily driver....its my "toy".....its supposed to be a little bit of effort......its supposed to give me goose bumps and a giant ego every time I drive it......and it does....
Hell, my DD is a lowered grand marquis, with single chamber flows, hypertech programmer, gears, and a home built shift kit. I dont "do" boring....
When i need quiet or smooth, I have the wife's charger....
That's my rant......and just my humble opinion...
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:12 AM
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That rant not withstanding, if I could afford it, I would have a full size late 60's impala, with a low compression SBC, fuel injection and twins,....having 800hp, a smooth idle, and a sleeper vibe is also hugely cool....but I haven't figured out how to make people give me money for absolutely no reason yet.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Because that's exactly what I enjoy in a "toy".....here's my take, I have this car cause its loud, bright, slightly obnoxious, and fun as hell.....yep, admittadly there's a bit of "thmpr cam" mentality, I like rolling into the Fri night cruise sounding mean and nasty, I like how it feels when i hit the key and its hard to get it warmed up, trying to get it to idle, snarly....I love it....but where I differ from the thmpr CAm crowd, i hit our local dragstrip cruise night often, right or wrong I hit the Fri night street stuff occasionally, hell, I have a quarter mile marked on a back road close to home that I regularly stop all by myself, and run it till the shift light comes on in 3rd. Just for me, all alone, cause its awesome....so I want it to run as good as it sounds.....I like maximum effort, im OK with piss poor gas mileage, a rough idle, a big converter, because its not a daily driver....its my "toy".....its supposed to be a little bit of effort......its supposed to give me goose bumps and a giant ego every time I drive it......and it does....
Hell, my DD is a lowered grand marquis, with single chamber flows, hypertech programmer, gears, and a home built shift kit. I dont "do" boring....
When i need quiet or smooth, I have the wife's charger....
That's my rant......and just my humble opinion...
Except for the street racing part, I feel ya. Like I said: As long as you're OK w/the down sides...

But do get some good heads asap.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:19 AM
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After your explanation above about what you really want^^^^I withdraw my opinion about your present cam and defer to the experts. Sorry about that, I mistakenly thought we were talking more about a daily driver. Good luck with your build, Bill.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Because that's exactly what I enjoy in a "toy".....here's my take, I have this car cause its loud, bright, slightly obnoxious, and fun as hell.....yep, admittadly there's a bit of "thmpr cam" mentality, I like rolling into the Fri night cruise sounding mean and nasty, I like how it feels when i hit the key and its hard to get it warmed up, trying to get it to idle, snarly....I love it....but where I differ from the thmpr CAm crowd, i hit our local dragstrip cruise night often, right or wrong I hit the Fri night street stuff occasionally, hell, I have a quarter mile marked on a back road close to home that I regularly stop all by myself, and run it till the shift light comes on in 3rd. Just for me, all alone, cause its awesome....so I want it to run as good as it sounds.....I like maximum effort, im OK with piss poor gas mileage, a rough idle, a big converter, because its not a daily driver....its my "toy".....its supposed to be a little bit of effort......its supposed to give me goose bumps and a giant ego every time I drive it......and it does....
Hell, my DD is a lowered grand marquis, with single chamber flows, hypertech programmer, gears, and a home built shift kit. I dont "do" boring....
When i need quiet or smooth, I have the wife's charger....
That's my rant......and just my humble opinion...
I am with you on that one. Love it loud. I got to say the thumpr cams from comp are not that bad. They idle ruff as hell but have lots of over lap. So you get a big hp peak out of it. What you give up to make that nasty idle is gotten back when you get the dyno sheet. If you look at the specs only the xe and the mutha thumpr are not that different. Both are dual pattern cams and both have similar duration. The thumpr will probalby put more hp on the dyno graph is it usable well maybe not as much but certianly not the worst cam ever designed. There is simply no replacement for a big cam engine. I am just not happy if it doesnt pop and rattle. If it runs smooth then i could have had more with a bigger cam. But maybe im just nuts.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:39 AM
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Except for the street racing part, I feel ya. Like I said: As long as you're OK w/the down sides...

But do get some good heads asap.
Lol......thnks man.....for me the "downside's" are alot of the fun.
And my little heads would surprise alot of people....
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