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Isky Hi-Rev Series Solid Flat Tappet Camshafts 201025 - SummitRacing.com
Here is a little Isky solid I like for your combo too. Similar but single pattern on a snotty 108LSA. very responsive street solid. can use 1.6 in/ex rockers for more net lift. 278-278 240-240@.050 .480" @1.5 108 LSA. .512" w 1.6 rockers. ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters |
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Thats too bad you are wimping out on the Lunati solid cam.
What is the big problem with this? All the high performance corvettes had a solid lifter cam Like the 1970-71 LT-1. This lunati cam is very similar to that. Its a street cam designed for the street. These cams outperform hyd cams. I bet this solid cam will run quieter at idle than the comp XE284H-10 Set the lash once twice a year. real easy. What knowledge do you need. Set the lash , shut the hood and drive it. You don;t need to touch it for 6000 to 10000 miles.. Cold lash check takes 30 minutes to do, once or twice a year. No other knowledge is needed. Mpre power , more rpm, what's not to like. "EO IC" you set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open... You set the exhaust valve when the intake valve just closes (back on seat)... you set the lash cold (easy) a bit tighter than the hot lash spec (hot lash is a pain and not nessessary) .004" ot .006" tighter is just right. This all you need to know. repeat after me "EO IC" You don't need to build another engine. This is a real engine. this lunati cam will work with your 981 springs ( correctly shimeed. The comp xe284 needs a better spring. There is no reason why this motor will come unglued. It will out live you. You are getting all off on a tangent of building based on some emotional fear. Fear of a solid lifter cam, fear the motor will come unglued. Ya the 292H would not be your best bet for this one. The Lunati is.... Assuming you did a decent job on your heads,,, this is a easy solid 12 second ET all street performer that will serve you well for many many years. ( An you will be all set up for a 150HP nitrous system that will rule the streets in Ottawa for peanuts.,,,, Well... as long as I don't show up there LOL) Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-09-2012 at 10:50 PM. |
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Solid is not really that bad. Many ppl run them on the street. Tight lash cams are easy to live with. Also put up with todays more agressive lobe profiles. For dual pattern extreame lobe profile type cams. Where the valves are opening faster and staying open longer i would think the isk F-bird recommended should be a pretty good choice. Once the valves seat in they dont need to be adjusted very often. Use poly locks and proper valve train for the cams rpm help alot. I herd another member hear mention that the dodge dart was solid lift and most of the owners didnt know it. Plus many a vette cam with solids. They do work well but so do hyd once its all said and done. Now if its a bracket car solid is the best choice for run after run performance. |
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Its not fear, I'm not afraid of breaking anything, my junk gets abused and driven like it owes me money....this is more of a cost situation....what are solidlifters and cam worth etc etc...I have to admit, valvetrain sounds are cool, when there supposed to be therelol....I just have no idea what lifters, cost, etc etc.....its more ignorance then fear.... |
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As for cost, there usually isn't any more to go solid rather than hdraulic- BUT if you can afford the nicer face oiling lifters they have been proven to help durability. They're about $40 more i think. |
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If this is primarily a street driven vehicle that isn't street or track raced for money, you will kick yourself every time you drive it w/almost all of the cams mentioned on this thread. The cam in it now is just a little smaller than what will make an outstanding ride for everything except the 1/2 of 1% of the time that it's at WOT all the way through the gears.
You said yourself it runs good to 6K rpm, so what is it you hope to gain by going w/a cam several magnitudes more radical than what is in it now? Because I can tell you from experience that an over cammed engine is a real turd on the street. Unless you are taking it to the track this is a real waste. I see this all too often here. There are max acceleration combos (high compression, big lumpy cams, loose torque converters, low rear gears) that when driven on the street- where there's no traction and LE to contend with- are just no fun other than the fender rattling idle. ![]() Then there are all around combos that have good torque below 4K rpm and do not require the other less street friendly parts. You are heading towards a max acceleration combo- and for the vast majority of the time and for the vast majority of the drivers out there, this will not be any fun at all on a regular basis driven on the street. Just being the devil's advocate here, giving a bit of a reality check. If you're fine w/the downsides, then go for it and good luck. And save up for a decent set of heads. At least then the cam can give you what it really has. |
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I like that Isky, I also like the numbers on this
Howards Cams Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL11100208DL - SummitRacing.com |
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Hell, my DD is a lowered grand marquis, with single chamber flows, hypertech programmer, gears, and a home built shift kit. I dont "do" boring.... When i need quiet or smooth, I have the wife's charger.... That's my rant......and just my humble opinion... |
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That rant not withstanding, if I could afford it, I would have a full size late 60's impala, with a low compression SBC, fuel injection and twins,....having 800hp, a smooth idle, and a sleeper vibe is also hugely cool....but I haven't figured out how to make people give me money for absolutely no reason yet.
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But do get some good heads asap.
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After your explanation above about what you really want^^^^I withdraw my opinion about your present cam and defer to the experts. Sorry about that, I mistakenly thought we were talking more about a daily driver. Good luck with your build, Bill.
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And my little heads would surprise alot of people.... |
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