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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
65 imp is my dream car.....that and a 46/47 ford coupe.... Nick Scavo and Fat Jack Robinson were huge influences for me.....an 8 sec 10.5 tire full size ride.....or fat rendered race car that looked like a typical poser pro street car.....mmmmm.....perfect
If your going to 800 hp you will probably want to buy a frame. The cost is not bad if you got garage space i would start with a frame on jack stands and build one part at a time.

Helped a friend frame off an impala and another make one out of bits on an aftermarket frame and just all black sep them big old bumpers. The one built out of bits was alot cheaper. It was also a crap load of work but did not include a 5-10k price for a rust pile that will cost more to fix than buying one fully restored. So in some cases its much cheaper to start with some tape on the garage floor than wait for the perfect doner only to spend months of go fast time covered in rust and dust. That being said clearly some corners were cut to make the cheap ride but it was still cool and still fun to drive. He used stock corvette drive train in his.

Hope that helps. With 800 hp im sure your going to want to be sure of whats under the car is strong enough to hold that kind of power. I have also noticed that even the purest is starting to agree with some modern improvements to brakes and suspension so it really doesnt kill the resale either. Now a days for myself i am looking for unrestored surviors or something i can take out and beat on. The concours restore job does nothing for me these days.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2012, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
If your going to 800 hp you will probably want to buy a frame. The cost is not bad if you got garage space i would start with a frame on jack stands and build one part at a time.

Helped a friend frame off an impala and another make one out of bits on an aftermarket frame and just all black sep them big old bumpers. The one built out of bits was alot cheaper. It was also a crap load of work but did not include a 5-10k price for a rust pile that will cost more to fix than buying one fully restored. So in some cases its much cheaper to start with some tape on the garage floor than wait for the perfect doner only to spend months of go fast time covered in rust and dust. That being said clearly some corners were cut to make the cheap ride but it was still cool and still fun to drive. He used stock corvette drive train in his.


Hope that helps. With 800 hp im sure your going to want to be sure of whats under the car is strong enough to hold that kind of power. I have also noticed that even the purest is starting to agree with some modern improvements to brakes and suspension so it really doesnt kill the resale either. Now a days for myself i am looking for unrestored surviors or something i can take out and beat on. The concours restore job does nothing for me these days.
Lol......the 800hp imp is nothing but a lottery dream....2 high school kids, 2 dogs, a wife, and a big morgage means its all about maximum fun for minimal cash. Believe me, if cash wasn't an issue I would have 2 C3's, one like this.....

And one like this
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2012, 08:50 PM
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Hey f-bird, spent all day looking at Isky stuff, what your opinion on
Isky Hi-Rev Series Oval Track Solid Flat Tappet Camshafts 201525 - SummitRacing.com
525a, seems like it should have a wide power band and be pretty snotty on a 106. Is my 3000 stall and 411's enough? Just wondering what your thoughts were?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Hey f-bird, spent all day looking at Isky stuff, what your opinion on
Isky Hi-Rev Series Oval Track Solid Flat Tappet Camshafts 201525 - SummitRacing.com
525a, seems like it should have a wide power band and be pretty snotty on a 106. Is my 3000 stall and 411's enough? Just wondering what your thoughts were?
I think that would be a "very snotty" on the snotty scale. Pretty snotty would be a few steps down and probalby not have oval track in the discription.

Wide power band and oval track are not terms that cam manf. Use in the same sentence. The further you push the rpm band the further away they are for being a match to your heads. But that being said i no nothing about how well they actually flow. Seems like even ported 1.94 valves would fall off around 6k and really your cam should as well. With solid you will still be able to rev it a little harder to cross the line if need be. If your looking to over cam the engine just to push it and grab a few more ponies then Bingo!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:24 PM
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I dunno why I have this thing for Isky, first fast car I ever rode in, Vega, with a 355 and muncie, camel humps and isky solid....never forget lol
I do like the numbers on the Z27 grind.....
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Yup its a good one (I had that one) but needs the long tube headers and 3500 stall.

you want to keep the duration low with jsut a 3000 stall.
Not more than 242 @.050" intake (solid cam)

Here is the biggest baddes cam I would bolt in your car with the 3000 stall.
Lunati Voodoo #60141 and the price is right ( this week.)
get some better headers. Install on a 104 intake C/L
Lunati 60141

use isky 235D vavlve springs @1.75" installed height and long slot rockers.
drill and roll pin the rocker studs and set the spring height.
Lunati Voodoo solid cam
241 249 @.050 .520-.540 110LSA
Do not go bigger than this one. This one is hot.
Really needs the better headers thou.
Do not use those wimpy 981 springs on this one.

This Voodoo has the bark and the bite. lol
We sell you the whole seat,, but you only need the edge!!!!
Voodoo cam card
Cam Spec Card :: Lunati Power
Do not use crappy valve springs on this one.
Lol.......looks like I will have to "wimp out" a bit....running this cam will likely cause me to turn my stock junk until it windows the block.....defeats my budget plan for Now....will save it for the "real" motor next year....this time around will likely try the Z-25 or 27 grind and see how that and the converter wake my junk up...I suspect going from the wee lunati I have now, and the stock converter its going to feel like a whole new animal.....
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:56 AM
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Your present TC will have a lower stall from the hit at idle than it did w/the "wimpy" cam.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lol.......looks like I will have to "wimp out" a bit....running this cam will likely cause me to turn my stock junk until it windows the block.....defeats my budget plan for Now....will save it for the "real" motor next year....this time around will likely try the Z-25 or 27 grind and see how that and the converter wake my junk up...I suspect going from the wee lunati I have now, and the stock converter its going to feel like a whole new animal.....
Of all the cams mentioned in this thread, the 401A3 mentioned on page 1 by F'bird is still the best matched to your application. I don't know if you're at all interested in a well matched combo but if you are there really hasn't been a reason to look at any of the other cams mentioned.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 10:03 AM
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Am I really agreeing w/you on something? Weird feeling. It wouldn't be my choice if he was to swap to decent aftermarket heads later though, so at least there's that.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Yu have three votes for the Lunati/UDharold street cam, now...

It is the right cam for you.

(Windowing the block????.... I don't know where you,re getting with this.

All these cams will have the same basic rpm limit. (with good springs) But will all run a little different. This one is the goldie-locks street cam for your Vette.
It will have that just right feeling. The others need stuff you do not have.
Lol windowing the block means to add holes.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 11:05 AM
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I agree the big cam solution does Not work without the heads to support it. Lunati is a good cam. They seem to be made a little better than most.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 11:10 AM
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Most important factors in buying a cam are the simple things that get over looked.

Does this cam fit my engine aka. Does it work with coil bind and max lift guide clearence and springs installed. Springs worn out or bad. Valve opens 25% of diameter.

Does it fit my application.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 11:29 AM
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Am I really agreeing w/you on something? Weird feeling. It wouldn't be my choice if he was to swap to decent aftermarket heads later though, so at least there's that.
Well the heads are the obvious limiting factor here, and I think F'bird has more confidence in the OP's "ported 305 heads" than I do. Doing a good job of porting those heads to get you at least 230cfm and a 175+ cc runner volume takes a LOT of time even if you know what you're doing.

If they're as bad as I think they might be even the 401A3 cam is too big.

I'd like to see a better set of heads used, but it is what it is.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The MPH from a drag strip pass will tell the tale of how well the heads are working.
Even a MPH with the cam he's got now. The nice thing about the Lunati cam
is after the initial novelty has worn off,,, you can and will still enjoy driving the car, two years down the road,
with this Lunati solid street cam in it. (as well as easily reach the performance goals and GLH)
Its a sweet street cam. It will have a really sweet sound at idle.

If his initial effort on these heads comes up short there is nothing stopping him from removing them,
removing the valves and doing some more port work on them to sweeten them up.
Most people don't go far enough when porting stock SBC heads. You cannot make them too big short of grinding right thru a
port wall ,but you can overlook key areas deep in the ports. people tend to go for the easy to reach parts that looks impressive
The port flange opening and the bowl under the valve. "pocket port" "port match"
and buy into the oooo don't port too much, you'll screw them up, camp. This causes them to not get the whole port right. This is what limits the outcome.
Not going far enough. You can fix that.
Heads will be coming off regardless, and yes, I absolutely went deep into the port, and wasn't shy at all, I was more then a little concerned I was going to punch through something lol....but once they are off I will revisit my work and if more is needed then I have nothing but time. OK, I'm going to start back at page one and look at the lunati again. At this point I have not enough experience to assume I know what I'm talking about when it comes to cam choice with these heads..and I know you do know what your talking about.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2012, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The limiting factor will be the shorty block hugger style headers,,, not the heads.
For the record, earlier in the summer I had run it on one of those gtech dyno things, I'm aware they aernt super accurate, but they repeatedly had me at 112mph and one at 114 which I know is horsesht and not accurate....but how close they are I don't know. 5mph high from what I can find on the interwebs from other users, which would put me near 107mph....still seems high....but till the track opens it is what it is. And yah, I know the headers are not ideal.....and will likely get changed at some point for an under car system, or a real hooker long tube sidepipes style.....
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