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Old 01-04-2011, 06:33 PM
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would these pistons work for my budget build?

Hey All,

Yes.. I know if I'm going to build an engine.. I should put my money where my foot is. However.. circumstances have caused my to budget in certain areas. So.. will these pistons work for my budget build of my vortec engine. I'm using 062 vortec heads.. and its a 96 roller block..bored .030.. 3.48 stroke.. .025 deck.. crane grind of 452/462 lift. I was initially going with the KB 142-30..but I'm going with a budget in mind. Do you all think these pistons will be fine.. and what grade of pump gas do you think I can use with these pistons..along with the gasket:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17350-30/

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Old 01-04-2011, 06:57 PM
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Why the .025 deck? With a .040 gasket you're looking at .065 quench.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:03 PM
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the block is pretty much std. except for being bored .030...thus the 9.025 on the deck. What would you suggest?
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:07 PM
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The octane requirement is related to the compression and quench more so than the piston material or design- as long as they're not "pop ups" or high domes that get in the way of good flame travel/propagation.

Those pistons have the 'right' compression height of 1.560", not the 0.020" lower-than-OEM size of 1.540"- often used in rebuilder kits, etc. The heat treat and silicon content is where it would be expected to be.

The top ring is pretty low, the piston does have the unnecessary 4-valve reliefs, but the pins are presumed to be offset, judging by the divot that indicates "front".

Pay attention to the piston to bore clearance, the ring end gaps and use a shop that has a torque plate to do the honing with.

All in all, as long as you don't run them into detonation, they shouldn't be a problem.

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Old 01-04-2011, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
The octane requirement is related to the compression and quench more so than the piston material or design- as long as they're not "pop ups" or high domes that get in the way of good flame travel/propagation.

Those pistons have the 'right' compression height of 1.560", not the 0.020" lower-than-OEM size of 1.540"- often used in rebuilder kits, etc. The heat treat and silicon content is where it would be expected to be.

The top ring is pretty low, the piston does have the unnecessary 4-valve reliefs, but the pins are presumed to be offset, judging by the divot that indicates "front".

Pay attention to the piston to bore clearance, the ring end gaps and use a shop that has a torque plate to do the honing with.

All in all, as long as you don't run them into detonation, they shouldn't be a problem.

Cobalt.. questions.. because I really dont know.. but how would I run it into detonation? Just curious.. I want to make sure that I don't. What gasket would you suggest?
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfish211
Cobalt.. questions.. because I really dont know.. but how would I run it into detonation? Just curious.. I want to make sure that I don't. What gasket would you suggest?
A few causes of detonation or preignition:

Too much compression for the cam profile, too much total ignition advance, too fast ignition advance, not enough octane, a too wide quench figure, high intake air temperature, high engine operating temperature, too lean air/fuel mixture, oil entering the combustion chamber, hot spots in the combustion chamber (preignition), wrong plug heat range (also preignition).

Damage can also be caused by a defective/dirty distributor, distributor cap or rotor, faulty plug wires, vacuum leaks.

Head gasket:

If you are using freshly surfaced heads and block, you could use a steel shim gasket. This allows the quench to be optimized w/a near-stock deck height.

Otherwise, you'll have to somewhat compromise the quench by using a composite head gasket on an unmilled (still has to be flat) head and block surface.

A couple gaskets that will keep the quench reasonable are:

Clevite p/n5746, or GM 10105117, which is a multi-layered stainless steel gasket with a 0.028" compressed thickness.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:01 AM
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I talked to Techinspector on my build in regards to quench.

Cut the block, .015 2 reasons.

1. It makes everything uniform and leaves .010 in the hole
It makes sure every Cylinder is even and gives a great base plus it helps makes sure no preignition because of the tighter squish even at 9.7:1

2. Use a .019-.029 Gasket. All are available cheaply
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-perfor...parts/10105117

That gasket is .028 and costs 16 bucks.

Skip White Performance sold me a full set of gaskets with a .019 HG for 135 for my 1PC roller block.

My machinist told me 50 for every .010 they take off the block.

Problem I am running into is I can't find a piston with a 12CC dish to get you into the 9.5:1 compression. For a safe Midgrade pump gas motor.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:37 AM
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BUY these comes with rings, Speed pro 10CC dish ready to go for 135 bucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPEED...Q5fAccessories

They do have the 1.540 comp height (which is .020 lower) so depending on stock height you'll need to cut the block.

Bore 4.03
Stroke 3.48
Head Volume 63.5 (figure you will get them flattened which may take up .005)
HG thickness .029
HG bore 4.165
Deck Height .010 (cut it .015)
Piston -10CC (dished)

Yields 9.89:1


Or if you don't touch the heads and only cut the Block .010
Yields 9.72:1 And a quench of .044


With your Budget motor, you don't want to be fooling around with all kinds of Pump Gas and additives, with 10:1 you get really sticky I know everybody says they run 10.5:1 and other crazy stuff but unless you want a huge cam and a lot of right foot it may ping and with a less than Stellar piston you run the chance of it and ruining all the money you just saved. Look at some thiings to I would bet a lot of those people used a .041 HG (or thicker cheap Autozone Felpro gaskets) and stock deck height and they are actually running 9.8 or 10.0:1 and claiming they are at 10.3 or higher. Dumping in 93 Premium and getting away with it.


BTW a tighter quench = better cyl efficiency and better efficiency = better power for less money and safer more reliable use.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjkonyndyk
My machinist told me 50 for every .010 they take off the block.
He told you 50 what for every .010?
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:11 PM
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50 dollars I wanted .018 to leave .07 in the hole so it was 80 bucks to cut my block. 350 for the whole shebang. bore .030, install cam, tank, new soft plugs, clearance for stroker.
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