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I used my Dremel tool and a high speed steel cutter on my cylinder heads. I'm sure it would work fine on a block. Just set the crank and and see where it hits, grind those areas untill they are clear by .050"
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May I ask how much they charge for a "383" prep'd block? How do they know how much piston to wall clearance you need if it is machined ahead of time?
I use my die grinder to do all my clearancing and it really isn't difficult to do. If you are not experienced you may be better off having it done at a shop, I would suggest the same shop that is going to balance, machine the rest of it (and maybe even assemble). If you are not going to do the work yourself you may be better off with a crate engine. |
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When you grind on the block for clearancing would the procedure be to install the crank and make sure it doesn't hit- grind as needed. Then install the rods w/bearing installed and do the same thing? Would you mark the block and remove the rods when grinding?
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Yes, you have to drop the crank in and check for clearance. I have not had a problem with a crank not clearing. The rods/rod bolts are usually the problem. I assemble on rod/piston into the block at a time rotate it around mark the block with a marker and continue on to the next one doing the same thing. There are only a couple places (if any) that will need grinding, usually at the oil pan rail. It all depends on the block and rods/rod bolts.
There are water jackets so don't get to carried away with the grinder. Just take enough to give the proper clearance (.050-.060). |
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I think 79 cutlass is talking about the motown blocks
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