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Old 04-25-2010, 04:36 PM
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Yep, another "First Time" post...

Well after ending up on this site, after every Google search i did regarding the subject. Figured I might as well give up on Google and go straight to the (amazing!) source. I have been searching for weeks trying to figure this whole paint thing out. When I started into the project, I had no idea how complex the actual paint products were... I knew I had a TON of work, but no clue how complex or expensive paint was

With that out of the way, the victim is a 98 acura integra. Has over 200k miles, no rust, only problem with the paint was the Florida sun had given the factory clear coat a good beating. I have "scuffed" the paint on most of the car with 320grit sandpaper. Done some body work (shaving side moldings, emblems, antenna, rear washer nozzle) and used a small amount of body filler on some dents. Very few places are actually down to bare metal. I have also decided Im going to use a single stage black paint, and im not looking for a show quality finish. I dont want it to look like maaco either though. Also I have the car 100% disassembled. Now, with all that out of the way. Here are my questions...

1) Since there is very little bare metal, do I need to use an epoxy primer?
2) If I dont need epoxy, what kind of primer would I spray on top of the scuffed factory paint?
3) I'm thinking 1 gallon (not including reducer/hardener) of primer, and 1 gallon of paint (also not including reducer/hardener) Will that be enough to paint the whole car, inside, outside, engine bay?
4) I'm looking at Eastwood SS paint, or Summit SS paint. I have been reading a lot of good things about the SPI SS, but I can find no mention of it on their website, and cant find any pricing online. Any other recommendations on paint? I prefer to buy everything online.
5) Can I paint the individual parts at separate times and the paint match when it is all reassembled? Or should I put the doors/hood/hatch back on the car prior to painting and do it all at once?

Sorry about all the questions, but I seem to be hitting dead ends in my searches for this information

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Old 04-25-2010, 06:22 PM
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spi no longer has ss. if you have only small spots of bare metal 2k primer is fine. spi turbo primer is said to be direct to metal. depending on what you sanded car with you wont "have" to prime whole car. spot prime repair areas block with 180, reprime block 320 scuff whole car with 400 and shoot. being yor car will be black you can paint it in pieces easily. i personaly would not use either of the ss paints you mentioned. i have only used omni ss and concept. omnii will probably be price comparitive to the ones you mentioned and will do a fine job. black is cheap probably $130 ish a gallon. a gallon will be way more than enough. 3 quarst would probably do it but 3 qts is only a few bucks less than a gallon. black you WILL use the left overs.
i think you can get primer in quarts from spi you probably wont use more than 2 qts but again only a few bucks more for a gallon and you will use it.

you can get turbo primer in black get a gallon and do whole car block good. to ensure you did not miss any dings they will show on black.

another option is spi black epoxy it fills well sprays well and is best for adhesion. and you get 2 sprayable gallons for like $130 no need for another primer. and again you WILL use leftovers.

i would get spi black epoxy, omni ss. since it seems you are on a budget. a better ss would be concept from ppg more expensive but will cover better and is a better paint. 2 qts will do that car with 3 coats and be very buffable
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:44 AM
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Yea, I was kinda figuring the SPI SS had been discontinued based on a couple posts I saw on their forums... Anyone have any idea why it was discontinued? I haven't read a single bad thing about the paint or company.

I was able to find the OMNI on ebay.. Seems to be about $50-55 shipped per gallon (without hardener or reducer). Is that about right for pricing?

Also, what about the Restoration Shop products? Or tcpglobal in general? It was the first on line paint store I found when this quest began. I absolutely HATE their website (someone seriously has to be running one of the product DB's from a workstation they turn off some nights/weekends, and its just overall way too slow for a modern site, and the "checkout" process its self blows..)

And just to confirm, 1 gallon you said would be more than enough... Im gonna spray the interior of the frame, as well as exterior engine bay.. 1 gallon still enough?

Thanks again!
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Old 04-26-2010, 04:33 PM
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i would buy paint locally get a gallon and go from there black will match. if you use spi epoxy it dries satin black you can use it and only it underside of stuff like frame. omni is not as good a paint as ppg concept.
spi quit making colors because it was a slower moving product. their single stage was based off ppgs concept. call a local jobber to price out concept for the quality difference i would use it. spi epoxy and spi reducer for the concept. search this forum for concept and search spi users forum for concept. yes a gallon should be way more than enough.
here is a quote from BARY K owner of spi.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:09 pm Post subject: Reply with quote
Bill,
The concept is a very good single stage and easy to use as far as a single stage paint.

Another very good single stage is Glasuit, best in my book and does spray pretty easy but not like the concept.

Most of the others don't walk but run from.
good luck
marty
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:24 PM
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Yea, I did some research on the omni today, every mention of "omni black" also includes "it looks brown" ... Not what I want. Think im probably gonna end up going with the concept. Not so much on a budget.. Just dont want to spend a lot of money on paint, to find out I cant do it. Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:34 PM
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Sounds like you are planning a lot more work than you have to do.First any bare metal has to be sealed. Now you said that there is paint pealing, if it was just a couple of small areas you could feather them back to where the paint has a good bite and prime and block those areas but by the sounds of it this is a bigger problem and being that you are new to this for best results with black I would recommend that you strip the panels that are peeling to bare metal so you have a flat surface with out question to paint. The dents you fixed will need to be primed and blocked out and if you break through then re prime and block. When priming do not mask to have hard edges, keep the masking back from where your priming. Sand the rest of the car with 400.As for painting parts off, with black there is no worry of it not matching but I put the car all back together so I don't have to be concerned about chipping or scratching the new paint.I mask everything so that it can be sprayed at once, with the doors, hood and trunk able to open and close, like the pic of this Chevelle.
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rix-Trix
Sounds like you are planning a lot more work than you have to do.First any bare metal has to be sealed. Now you said that there is paint pealing, if it was just a couple of small areas you could feather them back to where the paint has a good bite and prime and block those areas but by the sounds of it this is a bigger problem and being that you are new to this for best results with black I would recommend that you strip the panels that are peeling to bare metal so you have a flat surface with out question to paint. The dents you fixed will need to be primed and blocked out and if you break through then re prime and block. When priming do not mask to have hard edges, keep the masking back from where your priming. Sand the rest of the car with 400.As for painting parts off, with black there is no worry of it not matching but I put the car all back together so I don't have to be concerned about chipping or scratching the new paint.I mask everything so that it can be sprayed at once, with the doors, hood and trunk able to open and close, like the pic of this Chevelle.
The paint wasnt peeling, the clearcoat was failing. I sanded the clearcoat down with 220 then 320, gonna go over the whole thing again with 400. There werent really any "dents" just some minor dings. I am going to block the whole car though.

As far as the color matching.. I know black will match ok if painted seperately. Is that true for any single stage "normal" (nonmetallic/nonpearl) color?
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:31 PM
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No I wish it was that easy but it's not. Other than black your air pressure, the distance you hold your gun from the panel and the speed you travel are some of the things that can give a different shade to the color. Not a drastic difference but enough that it can be seen if you try to butt match. If you are talking hinges or parts like that you can get away with but not butt matching panels.
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