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Old 01-26-2004, 08:48 PM
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Yet Aniother Garage Post/ Need Input Please

First let me say I read a LOT of information on this site already, very good info.

OK, here's the deal I have put a little cash aside to build a shop in my back yard. I have been doing a little shopping around and still have no idea what I should do. I know several of you have shops, if you don't mind sharing a few pictures and experiences, I would appreciate it.

I am not looking to build anything huge 24' (deep) X 30-36' (wide), tall enough for an inside lift (14' ceilings). Roll up or sliding door must be on the front (30' side).

I don't know all the advantages and disadvantages of wood vs. steel. It does get VERY hot in the summer where I live, but I figure if it is insulated it shouldn't make much difference.

I would like to start building this thing in the next 1-3 months (depending on weather). The shop will be strictly for tinkering on cars/motorcycles etc.. not for storage. I have an attached garage as well. I know everyone says go as big as you can afford, the afford part is not the problem. I live in California and space is limited, so 24' X 36' is all I have room for and still leave a decent sized yard for the kids and dog.

Please point me in the right direction, Oh and I plan on building it myself (with the help of a few friends).

Estimated costs would be great as well. I will be pouring a LOT of concrete, but I do have a connection (for labor).

I have about $25-30K to work with, will this do it?

Royce

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Old 01-26-2004, 09:30 PM
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Royce, I havent built mine yet, but was qouted 10K for a 24X32 pole building including the floor 10X18 insulated door & a standerd service door & gutters. not included was electrical, plumbing, driveway, insulation etc. John
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Old 01-26-2004, 10:11 PM
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Royce,

I built my garage over the summer and fall. It is 23' x 30' and I could have used about 10' more on either end. I would suggest going a big as your area permits. Once you start filling it up with equipment like engine hoists, air compressor, sandblaster, drill press, parts washer, etc. etc. it closes in on you fast. You should be able to build either wood or steel for less than 10,000 easy. AS for which is best I really don't know. I built mine out of wood simply because it was easier for me to work with. I didn't have anyone to help so it was a one man job. Steel does require a different set of tools and sometimes a boom truck if you use very large roof beams. As for height, most lift makers say that 13' is plenty of room for standard vehicles including pickups. But, taller certainly can't hurt except for heating in the winter. Heat rises.

Make sure you know how to pour and re-enforce the concrete floor. It will become the life of your building and I have seen some floors cracked by 4 post and 2 post lifts that were 6" thick but not re-enforced correctly.

Have fun and enjoy your garage.

Gary
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Old 01-27-2004, 08:21 AM
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Check out www.steelbuildingsetc.com They have a special right now on a 24x34x14. With doors and insulation it is under $7000.
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Old 01-27-2004, 10:57 AM
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Excuse my ignorance, but what is a "pole building"?

I will call my local building department and see what types of buildings are allowed, this may be the deciding factor.

Royce
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:18 AM
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Royce...this will give you an idea what a pole barn is like. The poles go in the ground first. Add some lumber around it, then the sides and roof, and the floor can go in last. Very different from a footer, block foundation, and stick build. There are many ways to go a beings you are in California they may have many tighter restrictions than around this side of the Mississippi. Also I imagine your prices are considerably higher than around here. A typical 24' x 24' package garage that you build yourself with vinyl siding, complete sells for around $3500, then you have the floor and foundation on top of that. I am attaching a pic of a typical pole barn going up. Let us know what you decide. Also check this site http://www.steelbuildingsetc.com/

Kevin





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Old 01-27-2004, 12:41 PM
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One thing nice about pole buildings they go up quick,mine was put up in about 4 days just the shell then finished the inside myself with help for cement work. Brand names around here are Morton,Lester,Clearey pole buildings, these maybe nationally known,all about the same.24 x 36 looks big when empty they fill up fast,only opinion sometimes 24 seems alittle narrow if have a long vehicle to walk around 26 wide helps,however you know what you can do, what ever you decide for your budget should come up with a nice shop.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:29 PM
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I went about twice the size you want and I have $26,500. in it. It's a pole barn style, 40 X 64, with 12' ceilings. I had the building and floor done by a contractor. I did my own electrical, 220V, 100 A. It still needs insulation and drywall, but I need to let my wallet fatten back up to finish it.
As you can see bigger gets more expensive. Still some of my friends have a whole lot more in a smaller building.
Good luck on whatever you do.
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Old 01-27-2004, 08:31 PM
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Well I went down to city hall and got some of the regulations (man what I would do to live in the country).

There are no material requirements, meaning steel, wood, stucco, are all ok to use. They would just like it to somewhat match the house (in color).

The down fall is I can't build it as tall as I wanted. 12' limit on middle of the roof line, this will create a problem with a lift. I wanted 14' ceilings. I will have to come up with something for that.

Royce
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Old 01-27-2004, 09:38 PM
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Royce, you might talk to a builder or architect in your area,they can help you file for a variance from code regulated height, I just finished a long battle with my local zoning board, because I wanted to raise my shop floor 18 in. above the finished floor grade of the house, and have 13 foot interior height inside.
I am glad I hired a professional to negeotiate for me,I was finding it verrrrrrrry difficult to refrain from the biblical "laying on of hands" when dealing with the "public servants" in my local code office. the good news is I WON. you can too, good luck, Paul.
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Old 01-27-2004, 10:08 PM
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Royce, 12 ft center isn't all bad. Check to see if they have restrictions on type of truss you have to use. If you have a somewhat idea of where to put your hoist, you can maybe use a few scissor type trusses. If you set your trusses on 4ft centers, you can easily put in 2 scissor trusses which will give you an additional 3 ft (depending on the pitch) of inside height in the center part of your building. I have a loft type barn w/ 9' ceilings I checked on having scissor type trusses installed and they quoted me a 33 inch gain. However I bought a drive on lift and ended up adding on a lift room. Might be worth checking out!
Denny
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:46 PM
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I already have the application to file for a variance. I don't want to let them tell me what kind of shop I can have. I am not pushing the rules that far.

If I can't get a variance I might have to try t get tricky with the trusses. Since I am 6'4" I really would like to be able to use the lift to it's full potential if you know what I mean.

I think I will be able to get them to make a few exceptions because the way my house is built and the fact I have no houses behind me (just commercial buildings, furniture stores)

I will give it one shot if not I will do as suggested and hire someone with the proper "connections".

Royce
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Old 01-28-2004, 10:13 AM
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Plan B would be to have the building per code and just use a pit for working under the car. There's always a way.....

Just had another thought regarding costs:
If you plan on insulating a pole barn, you will need to frame in the inside, along with sheathing. I have a 30x40 x12'(inside height). I have to insulate the inside. The ceiling will be the same as the exterior metal, only White. This will allow easy cleaning, and it won't sag. Blown in cellulouse insulation. The walls will be 2x4 studding (w/ Pressure treated sill) and 1/2" Oriented Strand Board. (I'd use the same steel, but the ridges will make it tough to hand anything) I plan on using a piece of galvanized J channel at the bottom of the OSB sheets for 2 reasons.
1.) Rot/rodent protection
2.) I will end up putting FRP or something of that nature over the lower 4'. The FRP will cover the exposed J channel. This will make sure any sparks from grinding or welding don't "light up" my life.

Just be sure to add the miscellaneous things into your budget. Enjoy !!

Last edited by Beenaway2long; 01-28-2004 at 10:13 AM.
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