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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 01:17 PM
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Just an idea here but, I'm looking at the Feb. 2003 issue of Classic Trucks magazine, and in it is an article about gluing in patchpanels with Eastwoods Structural Panel adhesive. I can't help but wonder if that stuff might work for what you want to do. The article does illustrate a metal to metal bond, doesn't say anything about fiberglass though. Maybe you could call Eastwood and find out.
We use a similar product in the aviation industry for graphite to titanium bonding. But there again, the joints I'm talking about are specifically designed with expansion rates in mind.
Personally, I prefer welding steel to steel. Ain't very good at it yet, but I'm learning.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 02:19 PM
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Does that article have a phone number / web site listed?

Do they describe any bond other than metal to metal?

I think im going to try a couple experiments and see what happens. I will post results if they turn out nice.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2004, 02:37 PM
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i used long strand fiberglass to smooth out the transition from my fabbed metal cowl hood....it runs the full length of the scoop/cowl

the cowl runs the full length of the hood, and is welded to the original hood, i never thought about the different expansion rates...

is there anything i could do to stop it from cracking, or will it be allright for this situation? (inside of a 90* corner)
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 05:40 AM
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Psionic, I reread the entire article and there's no mention of a website or anything. I'd say though, go ahead, experiment. But I'd be real hesitant about putting an expensive paint job over it. For a while anyway.
Dubz, you might be OK, just because the cowl is welded to the hood. All you can do is wait and see. Personally, I think I would have opted for a plastic filler for your hood. I may be wrong, but it seems like bondo is more adhesive and flexible than fiberglass. But Hey! It wouldn't be the first time someone has had to do a job over again.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Busted Knuckles
I'd say though, go ahead, experiment. But I'd be real hesitant about putting an expensive paint job over it. For a while anyway.
Actually, funny you would mention, because I'm painting my car John Deere Green!
My younger brother painted his car john deere green, and it looks REALLY nice. Its also $40 Canadian for a big can from the JD dealership...

Quote:
Originally posted by Busted Knuckles
Personally, I think I would have opted for a plastic filler for your hood.
I would stay away from cheese on your hood, unless its just a little bit. Theres alot of flexion in the hood, especially when you open and close it, so the cheese would be cracked off right away.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 08:05 AM
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You might be right Psionic. In my experience, which isn't much, it seems like fiberglass pops off easier than plastic when I'm trying to remove it.
That Jon Deere paint is some good stuff though. I used the blitz black on my frame. I just can't bring myself to paint my F100 JD green. I've also heard that its pretty hard to remove if you change your mind later. And I don't know how compatible with other paints it is.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 08:58 AM
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not sure if anyone came up with this idea already...

Make the fiberglass pieces detachable. Don't actually adhere them to the car. Build them as good as you can, nice and rigid so they last...kind of like how Willys made his fiberglass front end.

Drill the pieces and mount them to the body with gaskets. THen you don't have to worry about the expansion/contraction rates of the different materials.

You could glass over the mounting hardware after it's done.

just an idea...not sure if it would work or not
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 09:29 AM
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That would work and is in fact how Detroit and the rest of the OEM guys tack on all that cheesy plastic performance stuff.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by unstable
not sure if anyone came up with this idea already...

Make the fiberglass pieces detachable. Don't actually adhere them to the car. Build them as good as you can, nice and rigid so they last...kind of like how Willys made his fiberglass front end.

Drill the pieces and mount them to the body with gaskets. THen you don't have to worry about the expansion/contraction rates of the different materials.

You could glass over the mounting hardware after it's done.

just an idea...not sure if it would work or not
Thats what I just said any everyone told me I was crazy!!!
Maybe I didn't explain right.

However, I wouldn't glass over the seam, I would use UV plastic filler made by bondo. Its more flexible than glass or regular cheese so it would allow for the metal and glass to move around a bit underneath.

Quote:
Originally posted by Busted Knuckles
That Jon Deere paint is some good stuff though. I used the blitz black on my frame. I just can't bring myself to paint my F100 JD green. I've also heard that its pretty hard to remove if you change your mind later. And I don't know how compatible with other paints it is.
There are all different kinds of john deere green. Get the agricultural automotive grade paint. The color looks REALLY sharp on my brothers acura integra. If you want to change the color later, just sand it down, primer, and paint the new color over. But yes, the quality of the paint is much greater than regular automotive paint. PLUS the paint is dirt cheap. I would recommend it to anybody.

Last edited by Psionic; 01-08-2004 at 09:55 AM.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 09:55 AM
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Bolt on yes, bonding to steel no. If the panel were steel, you have a fighting chance in bonding it. With a fiberglass one, problems arise when bonding it to steel. Rest assured, you still are crazy!!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Busted Knuckles
That Jon Deere paint is some good stuff though. I used the blitz black on my frame. I just can't bring myself to paint my F100 JD green. I've also heard that its pretty hard to remove if you change your mind later. And I don't know how compatible with other paints it is.
There are all different kinds of john deere green. Get the agricultural automotive grade paint. The color looks REALLY sharp on my brothers acura integra. If you want to change the color later, just sand it down, primer, and paint the new color over. But yes, the quality of the paint is much greater than regular automotive paint. PLUS the paint is dirt cheap. I would recommend it to anybody.

Oops, sorry. 2x post. Moderator, please delete.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 04:07 PM
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Hi Psionic,
hate to start this all over but i have done just about what your talking about, in the mid 70s, i built a 67 camero front fenders and rear quarters. i cut the outer fender for tire clearance and welded the inner panel to an outside tube frame around the tire, then built the fender design with foam, then covered that with fiber glass, it worked just fine and didn't crack even on the edge
thanks, scot
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 06:43 PM
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one off:

I couldn't really follow what you said
What do you mean by outer fender and inner panel?
Did you bolt/bond fiberglass to metal?

Can you explain a little better?

Couple more questions:

Did you use that camaro as a daily driver?
How long did you have it for?
Where do you live? (climate)

Last edited by Psionic; 01-08-2004 at 06:43 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2004, 11:22 PM
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2004, 07:42 AM
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hey, im not going down without a fight!
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