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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2004, 11:22 AM
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HEY PS: It sounds like you are intent on this project. There is a company who has a booth at lot of the NSRA shows and show a product that is quite different that is used as a bonding agent, filler, coating material. It is called Kwik Poly and sold by a company called KP Distributing 888-350-8450. You might discuss your application with them....GOOD LUCK....DAVE

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2004, 01:20 PM
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I'll give them a shout. Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2004, 04:23 PM
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hi,
i built the car to set very low, so i cut the outside of the fender to the highest part of the fender well, moved the fender well up and attached it to the fender, that completed the inner fender well. i took 3/4 tubing and made a new outer shape for the tire opening, then i welded sheet metal from the new inner fender well to the new tire opening. that gave me a complete inner fender well, on top of that i put foam to shape the new outer fender. after the foam was shaped i put fiber glass on top and finished the glass with bondo. i can get more specific about any particulars if you are interested. yes it was a daily driver,and was driven 1-2 years, i built the car for my sister it was too radical for her to deal with,so she sold it. the fenders did not crack in the time she had it, the car was in california
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2004, 07:54 PM
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Ok I just struck the "magic bullet":

http://www.eagerplastics.com/6151.htm

Only problem is its $24 for 2 pints.
Oh well, nobody said this project was going to be cheap...

Last edited by Psionic; 01-10-2004 at 08:04 PM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2010, 11:47 AM
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try dynaglass its a bondo type substance with fiberglass mixed in, i used it and it bonds metal and fiberglass
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:41 PM
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If you just have to do this try using SMC resin that uses regular cream hardener, it sets up flexible.

You could also make your fiberglass panels and 'bond' them to the metal using urethane windshield adhesive, it will allow for the expansion difference BUT you will have a seam. It is messy to work with so tape off all the edges and pull the tape the next day.
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:54 PM
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I use PL375 http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products....6-095729b36661

I used to do construction and landscaping for awhile, we use PL to hold together retaining walls and decks, the stuff has a strong hold on poorly prepped surfaces, a properly prepped surface will be bonded forever.

It's made to flex so it never breaks, the shift between metal to fiberglass shouldn't be a problem for it.

Last edited by cutterbond; 01-17-2010 at 12:04 AM.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2010, 08:03 AM
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If you can dream it up,you can make it in steel,Unless your building boats you really should forget the glass,yes its easier and faster to get there but what have you learned?what if it gets hit????Your young and have a whole lifetime to learn and with your stubborned attitude you remind me of me.That will get you a long way.I tried and tried to glass rusted door bottoms and such but it never worked very long. One of the best things I could ever tell you is to take some metal shaping classes ,this is fascinating work, shaping metal and you 1/4 panel job is 101 so it wont be long before you can do it. Of all the things I've learned in auto restoration metal shaping is by far the most enjoyable.You should give it a try...Careful though its very addicting...this link will help you look into it.. www.metalmeet.com
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:07 PM
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Attaching wheel flare to well.

You could fabricate your flare and attach it to the metal with an adhesive.Or alternatively ,as you can attach metal to fiberglass using self tapping screws (don't drill the pilot hole to large).U could attach a curved piece of metal to your flare and then tack that to your wheel well .Just a thought.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:36 PM
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I don't know if this will help but what I have done to build the body for my RPU is a combo of metal and glass - 1st I formed the shape from conduit tubing - pop riveted extruded mesh over the skeleton - used spray foam on the inside of the skeleton - shaped the foam with a body file - then glassed over that - Ive hade the body roughed in for over 6 months and no separation or cracking - I don't know if it is because there is a small amount of metal to expand or because the foam acts as a buffer between the two materials but Ive had no problem thus far -- see pics in projects - hand built 22 dodge - jaxx
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:53 PM
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Guys this thread is nine years old..Don't think those guys are around much any more..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:56 PM
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good point - didn't look at the dates - jaxx
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