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BarryK 12-16-2005 02:38 PM

You learn everyday.
A local Restoration shop lost their painter by firing him and had an allover that had to be shot.
I tried to get out of it but in short had to paint it today.

I had called a painter in the meantime I have known for 20 years and told him to stop by the shop for a job as I was going to be there about 8 to start spraying the car.

He got there as I was finishing up the second coat of clear and wanted to come in the booth when I shot the third coat.

Finished the car and noticed a run about 2" Long on front headlight bezel, I was going to get some tape and he says get a touch up brush and dip in reducer.

Never seen anything like it, he stuck the sword brush in the run (must be done while wet) and pulled the run off. I could not believe it!

Sure a lot neater and faster than taping a run off.

bloverby 12-16-2005 02:58 PM

I use that method whenever I have a drip on a the edge of a panel. If I get a curtain near the edge on say a trunk lid I will chase the run to the edge then come back and wipe the little clearsicle (new word) off with a detail brush soaked in reducer. Better still I just try not to get a run in the first place.

mrcleanr6 12-16-2005 08:36 PM

nice!!! i'll have to remember that one.

Bee4Me 12-16-2005 09:25 PM

Thanks Barry.
I'll keep that along with the toothpick trick rumbling around in my head.
I learned a LOT today too. :eek:
Amazing what you can learn by just listening (and reading here). :thumbup:

kenseth17 12-16-2005 10:44 PM

hmm, interesting, I still try the sticky side of tape trick if I get a run. I tried wiping with a wet finger (keep you mind out of the gutter) once like was suggested somewhere and all i did was make a bigger mess.

BarryK 12-17-2005 04:01 AM

RE: Sticky tape.

Tell you what I did years ago
because I spray any Restoration or show car so wet I will have a run or 3-4 somewhere, I would not be happy with the job if I did not.
Thats just me.

Years ago I use to spray clear on a scrap panel and play with the runs with masking tape trying to get as smooth as possible.
I have got that down where maybe half the time you won't see the run and the other half where it will need 1500 wet to smooth out.

All I try to avoid is a run that requires you to use a block thats why so much effort with the tape.

baddbob 12-17-2005 07:06 AM

When I don't get a little run in the job it just makes me wonder if maybe I could have applied it wetter :D I'll try the dagger trick on the next one. Barry, you could have made this the tip of the day :thumbup: So do I just apply the brush like I'd be striping and just pull the run down or up? Or do you just lay the brush on the run and then pull it back off of the surface? I'm thinking the reducer melts the clear enough that the brush pulls some off the surface. Bob

BarryK 12-17-2005 07:23 AM

The run was about two inches long.
He stuck the tip in the beginning part and laid the brush down in the run and than pulled off.
Had to do it a second time on a 1/2 inch left over that brush was not long enough to reach.
Must re-wet brush each time.
I think your right about the reducer.

When I tape a run, I hit it again with another coat of clear but did not have too on this run.
Clear just looks a little rough sprayed there and they can hit it with 2000 today along with speck of dirt in center of deck lid and be done with it.

If I had spray a coat of clear over the run spot I don't think you would have needed to buff it but rest of car was so clean, I did not want to pull trigger and cause further problems because the deal was any screw ups on my part they would fix and buff. So tried to do it so they would not have to buff.
I just hate the idea of someone buffing my paint work.

dinger 12-17-2005 08:02 AM

That's a great tip, I've done the masking tape before with limited success, I don't paint that often to get the practice. I also like the way you think on the getting a wet coat, I won't feel like such a D.A. when a run happens to me, I've had a job too dry and was very unhappy. Dan

shine 12-17-2005 10:56 AM

the way i spray clear i have to use a roller :) i'd rather fix a few sags as sand orange peel. if it aint aint done yet. i got pretty good at brushing out sags when we ran vans. 10 a day with 5 painters [ and i use that term loosly] we had a bit of repairs to handle.

BarryK 12-17-2005 01:55 PM

Never feel like a "DA" if you get a run! Its called a flow indicator.

I like the Roller idea!

Here is what i consider a wet paint job.
I had two coats of base sprayed at 78 degrees and let the last coat set one hour and did my mil checking so I could check my mils of clear when done.

I used HS clear and raised temp to 82 degrees while shooting.
It took 30 minutes to apply the three coats of clear and fixing the run.
Set booth at 115 for 20 minutes and when got back from lunch we milled the car. Average clear mil was 8.8-9.2 pretty consistent but where the run was left front bezel (inside) on the car in my picture (except pink) it was 12-13 mils.

No doubt it was user error! (incompetent gun control) Hey they don't make those sata RP's like they use to?

BondoKing 12-17-2005 04:34 PM

killer tip

Rob Keller 12-17-2005 08:18 PM

nice tip thanks

keep in mind I have't painted anything in a long time so alot has a=changed
what is a mill?
and excatly what kind of brush did he use?

got pictures?


SR66 :thumbup:

kenseth17 12-17-2005 09:52 PM

a mil is a measurement of the thickness of paint or something else. Like say 4 mil plastic (visqueen). They make l gauges to measure the mil thickness of paint and primer you have on the car. When I worked a short time as an industrial painter we were required to take a mil thickness reading on several of the parts and make sure it was within specs and was part of a sheet and checklist we had to fill out.

BarryK 12-18-2005 05:34 AM

One mil equals one thousandth of an inch. (1 mil = .001 ")

So to get an idea if your spark plug gap is set at .032, a 1/4 of that gap equals 8 mils.

This may be a bad example as a of you may not be old enough to remember
when standard plug gap was .032-.035.

A brand new car paint job from factory counting all layers of paint for 2005
are ranging from 3.3-4.8 mils. on average.

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