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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 06:24 AM
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Fan wide open may blow out the center of the spray pattern, I would play with it some more, the technology/design/quality on an Iwata is light years ahead of a finishline.
just saying.... save the Fl for primer
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 06:54 AM
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What will the higher psi cause? When i ran my test pattern with the fan wide open it looked pretty even. I will play with the fan spread more.

Again, not trying to start a debate on the guns, im looking for real tech here. I have a friend who works for BASF, he is an iwata guy and he recommended the psi change from 16 to 26 to over come mottling.

Last edited by orangejuiced86; 06-12-2011 at 07:04 AM.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:21 AM
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This is the car I shot with the Iwata. I am very happy with the gun, its light and very comfy. I just wanna make sure that I am using it to its potential, thats all.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:29 AM
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the pressure jump on the iwata is mainly for clears. some move faster so they will run the gun wide open and bump the pressure 5 lbs. for base i run the 18 to 20 fan 2 turns back. fluid 3 - 3.5 out. for clear i run it at about 25 lbs same fan and maybe 4 turns out on fluid depending on weather. it is actually adjusting the gun to your paint technique .the gun will perform great at the fac settings but not for everyone.

as for hiring painters it is no different than hiring a mechanic. a pro will have top shelf tools. why would a professional painter be using a 150 gun ? once they hit the booth your committed. if they screw up you are out major bucks undoing their mess. so you learn to check equipment and references .
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:48 AM
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Thanks shine!
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:49 AM
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I shoot at 14-16psig, BC as well as CC and have had little (read NO)problem. I tend to follow manufacturer's directions until I know they wont work for me. I also have no need to move fast as I want that expensive paint on the car, not in the air as overspray. If your bud's pressure setting works and you are happy with the results, that's what you should use. What I don't use is someone elses setting without experimenting, especially when they are ~1.75 times the mfr's recommendation - but that's me.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:55 AM
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iwata gives you a starting point. it's up to you to adjust the gun to you. i have a weather station in my booth. all 3 readings effect a paint gun.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:57 AM
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ya, I dont have enough expierence to know how weather effects my paint or gun. I paint in my garage, lol.

That will all come in time with me.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 08:02 AM
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i started in an old wooden barn with dirt floors .
everyone started someplace. i know guys who can walk into a booth and flat slick one down that dont do it for a living. just like there are ones who claim to be pro's that couldn't paint their way out of a paper bag with a roller and bucket.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:06 AM
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ya my buddy who I painted the car for was extremely happy so thats all that matters.

My garage setup gets better as I keep painting and figuring things out. I recently redid all of my air lines and added high flow fittings to my paint lines.

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2011, 11:57 PM
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how does the devilbiss millenium 620g stack up with you guys? I am going to buy a hvlp gun in the next few days. i dont want an entry level gun but am not sure if i need a top dollar gun. One other question is how do these guns perform with the new waterborne paint?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2011, 03:27 AM
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Guns , guns & guns.

Having sprayed some jap classic kawasakis with good results i decided to lash out and buy an iwata W400 $$$ to spray the Mustang . I have sprayed a silver Saab prior to the Mustang so i needed to do the bst job possible. I was pleased with the end result but i think there is room for my improvement, but the gun was easy to use , forgiving and more importantly deliverd the result i was looking for. There are some good videos i purchased on technique which helped also.
Cheers from downunda
Al.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2011, 04:56 AM
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If you watch ebay you might get lucky. I found an Iwata super nova in a new factory sealed box for $400
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Countilaw
We use the Finishline III gun for both base and clear at my shop. I have seen the Iwata and Sata guns and have never been impressed with them. You have to move too slow with them.
This is a 2010 Challenger where we used the Finishline for both the base and clear. The graphics are air brushed with clear coat applied with the Finishline III over them.



Frank Cox
Cox Custom Cars
I find it ridiculous how people put pictures up that don't highlight if their is orange peel or not, the only thing giving you away is that little shadow that's all wavy. I'd call this a bad paint job (don't mean to talk **** because you're probably 10 times the painter I am) but I can see that **** on a picture that isn't even supposed to show it. I've only used the finishline and I know I'm not a good painter but I really didn't like how it shot with me or by the other people that use the shop I go to. To me that R/T is only half done because I wouldn't sell a car that looked like that unless someone actually said they wanted the orange peel to make it look factory. But then we're talking about a gun that shot like the guns 50 years ago, not a gun using all the technology of today.

I think this thread should of really been about LPH400 vs. LS400 vs. Sata's guns. I know I'm really anal about orange peel but if you think a finishline is a good gun then that's because your eyes don't see what my eyes see.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:54 AM
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i love those who preach the cheap hf gun. these same guys have a roll away full of snap on or mac or whatever for changing parts. then want to paint with a 19 dollar gun. you get what you pay for and you deserve what you buy.
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