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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2006, 09:38 PM
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Your suggestions on this body work

Hey folk, Newbie here . (like you cant tell ) I've tackled a resto/upgrade job that is above my knowlege. Thank you GREATELY for your knowledge base and tips etc. I have been reading up before I do this post.

First I want to appoligize this is a paste job from another bulletin board in which I help moderate. Not much body work folk on there soo... TADA here I am to pick your brains and share anything I can in return.

----------------
Ok, Here it is. I am restoring/upgrading a Mercedes Unimog 404.1. I'm now doing body work that is welll... body work. Don't matter that it's a Unimog so I'm posting here for everyones benefit (particularly mine) I'll include some links on the history of this project to get you folk upto date.

A giant rotisserie was built to make the project easier to work on. Doors removed, Passenger Fender Removed (ruined in the process, but that is OK). So now Im planning ahead for dealing with RUSTTTTTTTT. and paint removal.

RUST Plan- remove it physically, use OSPHO to treat it
Removal of Paint Plan- using Elephant Snot (Aircraft Stripper) to remove it. Use spray can Etching primer as a coat to prevent rust on parts as I remove paint. Will move up to a spray gun once I get water filters onto the air compressor line.

Questions:

In picture 4 is a hole that goes from under cab in a little corner. The hole goes into a storage space that sits under the passenger seat. It is sheet metal. Ssorta akward area to get at. What repair do you suggest after opening it up good and treating area with OSPHO? Fiberglass patch, expoxy (JB weld?) or weld it in some fashion. (Im ammature at welding - MIG is all I have) Area will get a cover of POR15 and Rhino type lining later.

In Picture 2 is a small one and half inch "hole" in the doorjam (green area). It only goes thru outer wall of this area. There is another wall 3/4" behind this. Same questions as above. This question may change as I open the hole up further to get more cancer out. How do ya'll suggest I treat the rust inside this area while I got the hole open? the area is hollow and runs along door jam.

I have now done some work on the opposit side of the cab and found a rusted out spot in the EXAXT same place on the opposit doorjam. Apparently this area collects water from somewhere soooooooo.. my question is... Should I allow for water drain here? If so I suspect a small hole should be placed right where the rusted out spot is. How do you suggest I create such a drain that does NOT encourage rust to form around the hole etc.

In picture 1 and 3 are bigger holes where rust ate away at the rear wall. Obviously I want to cut out and weld in a new piece of sheet metal. My quesion is about the bottom edges which is a frame of angle iron. The angle iron frame is the piece the sheet metal folds under and is tack welded too. The flat steel of this angle iron is is eaten away some and very pitted. Structure strength still looks fair cause it is NOT all the way thru the angle iron. What do I do here after treating for rust on the outside and before replacing sheet metal ? Cut out frame and weld in new piece? Don't remove it just weld in a second angle iron on the inside of the cab for added strength? This would be EASY to do. Should I fill in rust craters etc. cause the sheet metal will cover it. If I should fill the craters, I could fill it by welding on it some beads and grind it down flush? Fill it smooth with JB weld type stuff? I pretty sure it would be unwise to cut out the curved portion of the angle iron frame. I don't really have the ability to match the curve with another piece.
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Last edited by coachgeo; 09-18-2006 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:18 PM
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By all means, mig weld the patches. Use solid 0.023 wire and CO2/argon. Don't try it with the 0.035 self fluxing wire. Most pickups have pre-formed patch panels available for those common rot areas so check with an aftermarket parts supplier for your truck model.

In all of the places you need to replace all the rot in both the inner and outer panels. Even though some of them look complicated, you can study them and break them down into simple flat components that you can fabricate into the complicated shapes. That is true especially for the inner panels that don't need to look real purty. Saving grace for a novice welder is that all those places are strongly compound curved so much easier to weld without fear of warpage.

This topic has been covered in great depth in posts over the years. Do a search on sheet metal patch, patch panel, etc. and you will have a lot of good study material. Also there are several photo essays of such patches in the Project Journals posted here. Search those out.

Finally, my best advice is just do it! don't worry over it, just tear into it. The solutions to each problem will work itself out as you go along. And post here if you get stumped.
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Old 09-28-2006, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
...
This topic has been covered in great depth in posts over the years. Do a search on sheet metal patch, patch panel, etc. and you will have a lot of good study material. Also there are several photo essays of such patches in the Project Journals posted here. Search those out. .... And post here if you get stumped.
Much thanx. Done a lot of searching already but not found alot on this topic. I new it was in here though. Generaly speaking board search engines are worthless without those few magic keywords. I'm excited now that you've tossed a few in the air for me. Will now seach by "patch weld sheet" and see where that leads me. Looking forward to lot's of reading and photo essays.

Again much thanx.
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