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Old 07-03-2005, 03:28 PM
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zaped the alternator

Ok I know I was supposed to unhook the battery but the terminal end bolts are rounded off so I attempted to hook up the alternator and accidentally shorted the battery wire to the Field terminal. I have replaced the alternator(and both of the dang battery terminals) and the system charges now. I still have the old alternator and I feel this is a good chance to learn something so what I need to know is what will be necessary to repair this thing? --Ford alternator-1985-external regulator.

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Old 07-03-2005, 07:30 PM
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Did you let the smoke out of the wires?

You most likely burned up the stator windings.

Usually when an alternator is full fielded to check output there is a carbon pile used to simulate a load and keep voltage down.

I havent messed with this stuff for a long time. But I messed up once by having the battery knife switch open then full fielded it the thing put out about 120 volts for 1 second. Then the smoke came out.
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Old 07-03-2005, 08:03 PM
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I still have the old alternator and I feel this is a good chance to learn something so what I need to know is what will be necessary to repair this thing? --Ford alternator-1985-external regulator.
You need a quality (FORD) shop manual to diagnose and repair it. Most likely will need a diode plate.
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Old 07-03-2005, 08:59 PM
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alternator

Doc here,


If you shorted the battery wire to the field terminal, it should have no effect...since thats just 14.4 volts regulated normally.

Get a rebuild kit from your local auto parts store, Should contain Bearings/Bushes, brushes/holders, diode pack, and noise suppressor.

Get 2 cans of gunk, and head off to the car wash, half the alternator, pull the pulley/fan, and spray it down good and let it set 5 or so minutes, then, spray with the washer set to degrease, for a couple of minutes, and follow up with full rinse.

Let it dry or air spray it, and put it on the bench vise...remove the diode pack, brush holders, brushes, and suppressor cap.

Inspect the stator windings for burning or damage, usually the reddish orange gyp paint will be burned through at these spots.

Get an Ohm meter, set it for R x 1 and continuity test the windings..they should be 000 to each other (end to end) and infinite to any other winding. (use schematic for this)

If that is good, replace the diode pack, and brush holders and brushes. On the rear of the brush holder on the end bell, you will find two small holes (usually) Get 2 paper clips, straighten them out, holding the brushes up, insert the paper clips through the end bell..This will hold the bushes up during reassembly of the main body and the end bell.

Using Emory Cloth, burnish the stator pickup rings until they are smooth and shiny clean.

Next find the front bearing, remove that and install the new bearing on the shaft. On the rear end bell, they usually use a brass bush, but could also be a bearing, In either case, replace the bush./Bearings

Tip: When installing BEARINGS..in an end bell..get a small SHARP punch, dimple the race 1/3 the way around the race..This will make the assembly slightly harder to reassemble, BUT the bearings will NEVER spin in the race.

With this being done, Reassemble the alternator, pull the paper clips, check it for free spin.. and reinstall on a vehicle...

The rebuild kit for GM is between $15 AND $19 And contains all the above EXCEPT the suppressor cap...you'll need to purchase that separatly..Ford kits should be comparable in price/contents.

Have fun with it...

Doc

Photo is for a GM, Ford should be similar:
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:11 PM
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Why use a manual when you got Doc?
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:45 PM
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Doc is better than a manual, a manual would not have told me about the rebuild kit which I did not know about. I just now went to Autozone's web site and sure enough they have it for less than 13 bucks. I will get the kit, copy Doc's instructions, tear into that thing and hopefully learn something while at the same time building a spare alternator.
Thanks a bunch Doc
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Old 07-04-2005, 01:24 AM
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Sorry I answered your question...
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Old 07-04-2005, 04:06 PM
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oops, pardon my slip-up -Kultulz, I asked for advice, you took the time to reply and it was very rude of me not to convey my appreciation. I do value your opinon and I hope you will not ignore me in the future.
Thanks(a little late)

BTW when I tore that thing down I found the diode plate to be bad.
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred

oops, pardon my slip-up -Kultulz, I asked for advice, you took the time to reply and it was very rude of me not to convey my appreciation.

I do value your opinon and I hope you will not ignore me in the future.

Thanks(a little late)
Well...I will let it go this time...But watch it from now on...

Quote:
BTW when I tore that thing down I found the diode plate to be bad.
Now...Did you mark the end casings before disassembly so it will be easier to put together correctly again? It is the small details that make a job easier than harder...
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Old 07-05-2005, 05:48 PM
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It WORKS!
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:28 PM
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Kewl!

Doc here,

Glad to hear it all worked out for you!

NOW, Two questions, was it as easy as we said?...and...From now on, will you rebuild or replace?

Doc
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:32 AM
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1-"was it easy as we said"?-- Heck it was fun!

2-"From now on will I rebuild or replace"?--Let's see now, rebuild for $12.99 + sales tax or replace at $79.99 + sales tax, Duhhhh.....
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