Looking for some help in street rodding my 55. I would like to subframe it with a camaro sub. I have been told to set the wheelbase 1 1/2 inches ahead to make it look right in the wheel opening and give it more of a rake. Only want to do this once guys so if you can help me it would be appreciated.

[ July 30, 2002: Message edited by: BIG BOPPER ]</p>

Consider using a Monte Carlo front clip instead of Camaro. I did one of those on a '57 chevy pickup and it looked factory stock, sat great. can send you some how to pictures if you want.

[ July 31, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>

How do your wheel openings look right now? if you're happy with where they sit, go with that. If you decide you'd like to move them, now is the time. You'll want to measure and mark from some point that is going to stay with the truck once the front part of the frame is cut off to where the wheel centers are (or where you would like them to be).

Look at your rear wheel openings, too - I think this is where you'll see the 1.5" you mentioned. This can be done later and won't affect your clip.

Is this a '55 1st or 2nd series? In other words, is it Advance Design ('47-'55 1st) or Task Force('55 2nd-'59 )?

Look at the Regal, Mailbu, Cutlass, Monte. They are all the same frames. Hell I get Regals and Cutlass all the time for dirt I mean $50 because nobody wants them. I've got some tricks if you need help drop me a line or call me I'd be happy to help (704) 932 7557

Thanks for the tip Lou!

Now you talking about my kinda stuff. I don't sub-frame, I change chassis. The 76 Elco under my 55 is perfect. Start by lining up the front wheel wells and go from there. You can make up the inch or so in the b4ed place ment. The only real cutting is in the steps inside the doors. You need to widen them by 1 1/2 each to clear the outward bow in the frame. Make a couple of body mounts and adjust to required heigth. I like the Elco for the 11" brakes and heavier suspension componants.

I've got a 56 chev pu, and can't decide which way to go with it. Did you use engine, trans & rear end with the camino frame? I could just sub frame, but If I'm changing rear end, trans & engine, seems eaasier to move the body to new chassis. Thanks for your input.

Just my two cents: I stuffed a 79 Z28 subframe in my 57 1/2 ton. Lotsa work but it should be slicker than a snotty doorknob (if I ever get it outta the garage).

If that was my 55 I would get a catalog from fat man fab. or chassis tech. and get a Mustang 2 front end. You can have that all welded in in 1/4 of the time that you would trying to set up a subframe. I built streetrods for a living and subframes are a thing of the past. They are cheaper but then you have to change all the mounting points for the rad. support and fenders and so on. Stock frame with a mustang 2 with a rack an pinion is very nice and VERY EASY.

The aftermarket mustangII frontend route is very expensive and if you want an anti-swaybar you must buy the right one. On top of that the tierod ends are wimpy with that silly rack&pinion setup, which doesn't offer much for close-ratio steering becuz of the way it's designed, as apposed to the Saginaw box in the camaro subframe swap. Also all replacement parts are very plentiful & inexpensive
both new & used. Additionally A-frames can be up-graded to aftermarket tubular units. Stick with the frameswap idea. PS I have a 55 Chev Belair in the yard right now, it's been frame-swapped, could take measurements if you want. GoodLuck!

If this is your first attempt at building a street rod I would caution against a frame swap or front clip. Both require a lot of work and are extremely easy to screw up. The first rule of street rodding is not to bite off more than you can chew. The classifieds are full of people selling half finished projects because they found it was way more work than they bargained for. Don't fall into that trap.

For your truck a simple bolt on or weld on Mustang II IFS from someplace like Heidts will work very well and is plenty strong enough to handle even a big block. Once the frame is stripped of the old suspension the Mustang unit can be installed in one afternoon. Replacement parts are plentiful and you will find that the cost is comparable with a clip considering you will have to rebuild the suspension and brakes on the clip anyway.

The Mustang II solution provides the option for big GM disc brakes, power steering and it won't require the extra work fabricating a new mounting system for the radiator and front sheet metal like the clip or frame swap. Prudent swap meet shopping can save substantially on the cost (I've seen complete setups go for as little as $100), and all you really need to add is a rebuild kit and a crossmember from one of the many suppliers. If you choose you can even use new parts but they will set you back about a grand (including the custom fit crossmember and big GM disks). The only option I would suggest would be the strut rod elimination kit, but you really don't need one of those for a daily driver.

Do yourself a big favor and save the frame swapping for a later project once you have some experience under your belt and know what to expect. You'll be glad you did.


Centerline
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</a>

[ November 07, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>

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Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

I second whats said above. I did a lot of looking and thinking on what to do with my 49 Chevy Truck. In the long run your a lot better off with the Mustang II kit. I got mine from TCI. Welded it my self. If you cant weld there are plenty of moble welders out there that will come by your place and do it as long as you got it in place were you want it. You go with any type of donor and youll spend time and money rebuilding it. I had my kit welded in in a short weekend and was able to move on to other things! Good luck! Let know were you need more help!

I just want to say , as for me if i could afford the $2,000.00 plus dollars for a quality mustangII ifs , i would buy it. I can`t. I can afford to find a Camaro, Nova, Monty front clip for $200.00, rebuild it and install it.
For me, doing it from scratch, is part of the journey so to speak. Sometimes i have to wait for the money or timing to get right. But it is allways woreth the wait.
Just a poor mans 2 cents worth.
I would caution you if you buy the after market mustang II ifs, buy quality. I have seen alot of complaints about the more affordable ones. Manly not enough brakes.
Slider in Wa.

If, for some reason you need polished stainless steel "A" arms on your Mustang II suspension for a show car, yes it could cost you two grand. For the average street rod where the front suspension isn't going to be out in the open you can do a quality Mustang II install with big 11" GM disk brakes (using US made parts throughout) for half that.

My last two street rods have used Heidts Mustang units. The unit in my coupe cost $800 (Manual rack with stock Mustang disks - big Ford disks in back) and the truck was a grand (Power rack with 11”GM disks - stock GM drums in back). Both took an afternoon to install with no time spent trying to figure out how to remount the front sheet metal.

Don’t get me wrong, I'm not saying these units are inexpensive, but when you consider the time and aggravation you save yourself, for me it's worth it.

Slider is correct there definitely are some poor quality Mustang II parts being sold. Generally they’re being offered by a few of the volume parts houses. Mostly cheap stamped "A" arms made in China. As long as you buy US made parts the Mustang II is plenty strong enough to handle the biggest big block in you average fat fendered rod.


Centerline
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</A>

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Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

Bopper,
Lots of talk about subframe VS IFS; I gotta agree with SliderinWA, it might be more work, but the subframe will end up being cheaper. You can find a Camaro sub for less than $100, and rebuild it a piece at a time. Try to find a Z28 or Trans Am, they have larger sway bars and better brakes. The biggest leap of faith you'll hafta make is when it comes time to cut the front half of your truck off with a sawzall (took me two hours to work up the courage). The Camaro is three inches wider than the chevy frame, so you will have to spread the trucks frame, and narrow the subframe to make it fit, also the front half of the trucks frame (where the radiator support mounts) will have to be reattached so you have a way to hang the front sheet metal. Best way to get all the critical measurements right is to get your truck leveled up, then build a jig out of angle iron to check the placement of the body mounts. Its a bunch of work, but mine looks like it came from the factory that way, and the best part is that its ALL GM, and I can get any part I need for it over the counter at the local parts store. Golden State Pickup Parts sent me a reprint of an article that appeared in Classic Trucks Magazine to use as a guide, it'd give you an idea of whats involved in the process.