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#2
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Yes! Dont do it! Its much easier and in long run cheaper it get a mustang II IFS kit. They weld up to the orginal frame so there no hacking on your frame. Heidts, TCI are some of the better known ones. I use TCI on my '49 chevy truck. Came with power rack and 11 in GM rotors.
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#3
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Do it!!!! I have a 77 Camaro front clip that was given to me. It has power sterring and disc brakes. Are you perty good with Mechinics? Do you weld? do you have a friend that can weld?
For me , i can not see spending 1600.00 to 2600.00 for a MII when i can do the clip much cheaper. Besides for me part of the fun is in the doing!!! Be very critical on your measurements. THERE are many site that will walk you through it. "No-Limit Engineering" has a Video for $35.00 that will show it. I just searched the web, for front clip install. I say go for it. Let us know what you decide to do and keep us all up-dated. Slider in Wa. |
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#4
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Send me your email address and I'll send you a photo step-by-step of a mid 70s Monte clip I put on a friend's '57 Chevy pickup. Very clean and very functional.
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#5
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Or you can go my route and put an entire late model frame under it. No cutting and mathmatics. I have a 76 Elco frame under the truck in my avatar and a 72 Olds 98 frame under a 57 panel truck. The shop truck, a 54, has an 84 diesel frame with a 403 Olds.
You have many options, amigo! |
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#6
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What ever happened to this guy????
This came from anther post on the subject. This guy had one that was done incorrectly and what it took to fix it. And gives you a idea of what it takes to do one. If your experianced and confident in knowing wnat your doing go for it. If not the go the kit route may cost more but the ease and not having to cut off your frame rails is worth it. I took out my old and put in the new in one weekend and did it right the first time. good luck! Phat Member Member # 297 posted April 17, 2002 07:58 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It will be savable....about 50% of my businees is cuttting sub frames and poorly installed stangII out .. Get the nose off it and start measuring. Now you need to get a level place to do all this.You need to weld 4 legs on the chassis with adust ment screws.(1x1 tubing is good with a 3/4 nut and bolt welded to it) The legs need to be welded on the chassis at about what ride height you want the car(forget the front clip for now)and dont weld them to the clip only just behind the firewall and just in front of the rear axle. Now level the bad boy out side to side.Now is also the time to put the rake in the chassis that you want to run.(angle of the rocker panels) Now remove the clip(sawsall and diecutter can usally save it if it was not butchered to badly) Now you need to find a center line for the front tires..mark it on the floor. Next pop the springs out of the clip(becarefull) Now flip the clip upside down and get the lower a frames level(inner pivot even with the center of the balljoint.Weld a strap on each a-frame to the frame(takes the place of the spring) Take a thin tape measure and make sure both tire are the same diameter.(i cut out ply wood wheels the same dia i am going to use) Now get the clip back right side up.Next take the clip and level the lower a-frames(NOT THE UPPERS cause there is anti dive built into that clip) the back of the lower a frame can be a touch lower(no more than and 1/4) Next weld 4 legs on your clip(2 in the front bumper area and 2 near the back) Now go mate the 2.Thats a whole nother story. But i think this gives a good idea of how much work there is to putting a clip on correctly. Just a side note the frame rails dont have to be level were they meet,cause you are putting the rack in this way. I also like to put a string across the lower ball joints and use that for a tire center line(i allway s go 1/2 inch forward of the center line on the floor to make up for caster and put the front fenders on. OK is that way to much info????? Boy do i get carried away with this stuff. Glad i dont do them anymore.Just buy a stang II and in 5 to 8 hours it rolls out the shop door. Good luck Buddy. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Posts: 251 | From: CT USA | Registered: Sep 2001 | IP: Logged |
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#7
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I installed a total cost engineered Mustang II front end on my sons 55 Chev PU, and it was easy looks awesome compared to the limited space and bulky look that a camaro type front clip provides. Added drop spindles upper and lower tubular A arms, and it rides great. Install a 2"x 2" square tube across the front where the old spring hangers bolted on, that will give you both strength and looks then you can remove the old cross member, box the frame in and add the new cross member. I installed power rack and pinion, new steering shaft with 3 joints and hanger. The hardest part for me was installing the right motor mounts to the cross member, I used and notched the square mounts that I welde at an angle to the cross member. GOOD LUCK!
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#8
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so MADD, perhaps you can answer the age old question of what is the best donor frame for a tri five chebby truck? (mines ona 79 chev.4x i had to section 8 inches) way too high for a 2x casue of the bend in the front of the frame unless i cut out my inner fenders.
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