Hi, I recently got a '31 A project car with a Mustang II power IFS (factory, not aftermarket). Seemed to drive fine on the way home, but now has a leak that seems, at least in part, to originate from the inboard side of the left hand rubber boot. I need some help as I am new to this unit. Please-
1. Is there some source that shows all the components of the factory unit in a way they can be identified?
2. I don't know what year or car this unit is from originally. Are there ID numbers somewhere that can be traced to their origin?
3. There is some strange (1/4"?) tubing running horizontally across the front of the unit from one rubber rack boot to the other. It seems to dead end in a pocket in the boot. What is this, does it have any function and can it be removed?
4. I can't closely identify the leak source, but one site seems to be the at the large end of the rubber boot. Compressing the boot like a bellows does produce some "air" sound and a bit of fluid drips from the boot end. The right side also makes this sound but doesn't leak. The clamp is one of those snap together but can't tighten types. Is there some way to exhange clamps? The odd tubing mentioned in #3 makes the rubber boot bulge out here a bit. Is there some way to replace the boots withough dismatling the whole front end? Any and all help will be appreciated. This is a project and a budget car, I want it safe, but I can't afford to jack it up and put in an after market unit.
Thanks.

I rebuild my own MII gears. It is easy to do but it takes a special tool to remove the seal on the passenger side because it is so deep in the tube. I made my own seal removing tool and you can't really do the job without it.

That being said, you have a leaking lip seal inside the gear causing your leak. The steering shaft slides back and forth and there is a rubber seal that eventually goes bad. There should be NO liquid inside the boot. Your boot is old and cracked or it wouldn't be dripping. If it were in good shape the leaking seal would allow steering fluid to eventually baloon buth boots thru the x-over tube and burst them up (sounds like I know what I am talking about from experience doesn't it!). Not much you can do but rebuild. That tube that goes between the boots just equalizes air pressure as you steer back and forth so you don't blow up or suck a vacuum in the boots and damage them. Air going back and forth is the sound you hear. It has nothing to do with your leaking problem.

You can do the job yourself. You can get the rebuild kits at an auto supply store and you can probably talk a mechanic into removing the deep seal. While it is apart, have it chromed if it is cast iron or polish it if it is aluminum. That is why I build my own so I can put a custom finish on them, in addition to being quite a bit cheaper to do myself.

Thanks, Willys, that's not quite what I wanted to hear. Is there any way to tell what year it is or any manual that tells how to take the thing apart?

Does it have two or three mounting holes? Two is the older stang and three are the newer.

It really isn't that bad of a job. In fact, I always do the kit on used units I install so I know they are fresh. I rate difficulty somewhere just above rebuilding a brake master cylinder and not as difficult as a carburetor. I just followed the directions that came with the rebuild kit. It had an exploded drawing and pretty good step by step numbered directions which was all I needed. There really isn't much to these units. Rebuild kit consists of a few O-rings, a couple of lip seals and a gasket or two. If that one seal wasn't a foot inside the 1 1/2" tube, I would rate the job a 3 on a scale of 1-10, 10 being hardest. I am assuming it is a power steering gear. If it is a manual box, rate it a 1.

I knew the year of the ones I rebuilt but my guess is that they are all the same.

Willys... You said that you follow directions. And you get the job done anyway? :p

I was just showing off. I still have my man card - I really just looked at the exploded drawing and winged it like I should have.

Am I forgiven?

Ok, I trucked on down to the NAPA guys and they said they don't stock rebuild kits because of GOK. But they do have rebuilt power R&P's complete for $145. This doesn't sound too bad to me? So how do I disconnect the old one, especially the fluid lines? Might I add this thing is shoehorned into the available space and really clos to the radiator? Thanks.

What is GOK? Try some other stores, I can't imagine they quit selling them everywhere in the laast two years. $145 isn't bad though. Just start unbolting it. Will need a tool to break the grip of the tapered rod ends. The rest is pretty straight forward. Two fluid lines, two or three thru-x-member mounting bolts, steering shaft coupling and two rod ends.

[ May 29, 2003: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>

God Only Knows. They couldn't come up with any particular reason why they couldn't get the kit-only that they didn't carry them and didn't know where to begin looking. Maybe it is a safety issue or maybe they just want to sell rebuilt units? I suggesteed these and they just didn't know. This is a great NAPA store and you can usually just walk in and get everything.