Just embarking on a '40 coupe project. Decided on an IFS, but which one?
I want tubular uppers and lower A arms, but I'm not bothered about coilovers. Springs and shocks would be fine. I'm not interested in airbags so I can keep the cost down.
The main things for me are that the car should have a nice super low "tucked in" look (ie no tire/fender rub) and that the ride and handling should be good. I'm thinking of using a sway bar.

I've checked out offerings from Fatman, Heidts, Chassis Eng, TCI, Weedetr etc.

My main concern with these is that the track width is 56+" . Heidts seem to be the widest esp if you put 11" discs on (their kits come with 9" brakes stock).

TCI have a narrower setup, but I'm not sure about the geometry of their tie rods...they look a bit long, possibly causing bumpsteer. Anybody any experience with this?

Fatman have a narrower setup too (their ultra low version) but this involves coilovers and the price starts to go up. Also you can't use a swaybar with this setup.

So, any thoughts anyone? Which ride best and has the best stance?
I'm tempted to go for the TCI setup as it's narrow (54 3/4")and the price is good at $1695. (I want to spend an absolute max of $2000) I'll be using a maximum of 15x6" wheels. 350/350 combo.

Thanks from the UK.
Feel free to post a pic of your rod so I can check out its stance etc.!

Bartrum, I sent you a PM.

Trees

What I used was a Fatman crossmember and Heidts tubular arms with 11" brakes and put a sway bar on the rear. Had a long talk with Brent at Fatman and he convinced me that a sway bar on the front is not needed, and the only reason I use one on the rear is I pull a trailer.

Thanks guys...info gratefully received.

I have decided on the Heidts Superide II for my '40 coupe. One non-Heidts issue I have is I want to retain the original steering column and steering wheel look. Now I just need to get my daughters wedding behind me and so I can order the unit.

Good luck, r

Thanks. I think you should be able to hook up the steering to your original column by shortening the column inner shaft and having it splined or machined to fit a standard UJ. That's assuming headers etc aren't in the way...

I think i'm going to go for a TCI unit as it has a slightly narrower track, 11" brakes standard, and they do a front antiroll bar to fit too (the roads are narrow and twisty here...).

Christian.

Raw, I have retained the origional steering wheel/column in my 36 coupe and pickup, including the locking and ignitition portion. For the steering column there are many ways to do it, but I used the origional inner flange that is on the gearbox. Remove the gearbox and column from the car and then remove the steering wheel and the dash mounting block that contains the lock and ignition switch (it's tricky the first time you do it). Remove the clamp at the bottom of the tube and remove the tube. You will see the flange that is held to the gear box by 4 bolts. Cut the 3/4" shaft about 2 " from the gearbox. when you are ready to install your column and you have everything measured, cut your tube so it will stick about 1/4" past the firewall in its origional location. Then insert the same rubber like bearing bushing that is in the top of the column in the tube and install the flange. Now you can drill the holes in the floor/firewall to match the four holes in the flange. Now you are ready to measure for the new section of the shaft. Either Borgeson or Flaming river offers great u joints, shaft parts and instructions to complete the job. You definitely need two u joints. I'll try to get some Pics and send in the next couple of weeks

Trees

Trees,
Great input and I have printed for for my project file. That looks like a great solution! Like you, I want to maintain the original locking ignition and look.

(Also following your IFS collapse issue very closely.)

thank you for the information, r