I have placed an order with Gibbon Fiberglass for a 34 3W rolling package. I do not think construction has started yet. I had a choice between the TCI IFS and Heidts IFS. I was talked in to the Heidts, should I make a change to the TCI with all this talk about the problem with Heidts failure?

You guys input is much appreciated.

Thanks
Vince

I bought TCI for the 40 Ford coupe.


They are a larger company...sell more stuff and I have NOT heard bad things about them like the CHUBBY ONE and Heidts.

I got a Stage 3 frame and I am happy with it so far. I was at the NATS in KY (July 2000) and looked at a bunch of stuff. TCI was a class act. Good price and very knowledgeable people answering your questions...........unlike some of the others. When I am getting ready to spend 9 grand on a chassis..........I got questions.......and they had answers.

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Both TCI and Heidts offer more than one IFS package. Which IFS set-ups from each vendor are you considering?

The description on Gibbons site just lists TCI or Heidts as options, both are based on the Mustang II design though. The TCI or Heidts IFS is a $425 upgrade over the standard front end.

Vince

Heidts has had very few failures. Actually most of them reported here and other boards have been Fat Man Fabrications units. That said it doesn't mean his stuff is necessarily poor quality either. Just about all of the failures have been the result of a couple different problems. Poor installation and lack of maintenance or the use of strut rod eliminators without proper strengthening of the crossmember.

When it comes to Mustang II designs Heidts has the best unit on the market (IMHO). They have made no attempt to improve on Ford’s geometry like most other manufacturers have and it shows in how their units perform. No bump steer, etc.

One thing to remember. Any time a major suspension component is "adapted" to a street rod there is the potential for some kind of failure over time. Especially if the design is modified (like eliminating strut rods). Doesn't matter whose unit you're talking about either. The fact that you've ordered your unit from Gibbons should give you a fair amount of confidence that the unit will be correctly installed. However, since you have probably opted for the tubular "A" arms (no matter which manufacturers unit you choose), I would ask them to completely enclose the crossmember between the frame rails and also have them add additional gussets to strengthen the area where the lower "A" arms bolt to the crossmember.

One last thought. It doesn't matter who builds your chassis, a pro-builder or if you do it at home, when components are "adapted" it can put a different types of stress on parts that may have not been tested by the factory for that particular type of stress. Street rod chassis manufacturers and parts manufacturers don't have the facilities or money to test their units for structural integrity the way Detroit does so regular inspections are a must.

The Heidts unit on my Pro-street 41 has been there for 8 years with no problems. I check the entire chassis before any trip outside of my local area and at least twice a year just to be safe. I'm looking forward to the same trouble free service from the new Heidts unit in my pickup as well.

Good luck.

Centerline
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com

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Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

Thanks for your reply Centerline.

Vince

If you do go the Heidt's route, also have them completely box the ends of the X-member behind the springs. The pictures of the two catastrophic Heidt's X-member failures have been from exactly the same cause. The X-member has no bottom 'til just below the bottom A-arm mouting bolt where the bottom is welded to the sides with square inside corners. The installer used strut rod eliminators which imposed too high a stress on the side plates and they eventually developed fatugue cracks at those inside corners and the sides broke off taking the A-arm with them. Both were adequately gusseted to the frame but gussets don't address the stress riser problem of those inside corners.

My suggestion in order of highest safety first -

1. Stock MII X-member, strut rods, strut rod supports and seconday strut-rod support X-member.

2. Aftermarket X-member with strut-rods. Mount strut-rod supports to 3/8" plate and bolt plate to frame w/ grade 8 bolts.

3. Aftermarket X-member with strut-rod eliminators and SERIOUS critical look at X-member design and reinforcement. I would only do this option if my car was a Sonic Drive-In cruiser w/ only a few hudred mi./yr use. If it is a daily driver, no way would I go with strut-rod eliminators.

This site shows a step by step photo shoot procedure of EXACTLY what I have been sugggesting to salvage the Heidt's X-member. Everyone with a Heidt's econo X-member shoud give this a look. Doing the mods he suggests give it a fighting chance to survive awhile. Only change I would make to his design is to box both sides of space between the strut-rode trailing bracket /x-member to the frame and bolt sleave.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolo...anginstall.html