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At the "torque box" that being the forward most sub frame mount and where the front of the leaf springs mount.

Brian
 
He's got the right idea. The body will just lift up and roll back, leaving the subframe with the engine and transmission on it. The problem now is how to lift the body and roll it back. Get three good friends (two people each side) and run a 10' 2x4 through the rolled down windows, lift, and roll back. 2x4 will be fine, it's going to flex some but there won't be a great deal of weight and the moment arm will be relatively short. But if you want to use a 4x4 (or doubled 2x4s) or 3" or so steel pipe that;s fine. Putting it back will be a bit more of a chore! I suggest you roll it straight back and leave it -- don't move anything around. That will make it easier to just pick up and pull back forward, but it's going to take a lot of work to put it back together. You'll need four friends to move the body around (they won't be holding it up all the time) while you lay on your back and tell them how to move to line things up. No easy way to do this, with or without the engine in place.

Remember, there is no right or wrong way to do all this... but make sure you're as safe as you can be. I take that back -- the way that gets someone (or something) hurt is the wrong way, all others are good.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
malc said:
What´s the story so far, have we got that subframe out ?
I'm getting there I am currently in the process of putting epoxy primer on all my front end sheet metal.

After I finish that I am gonna put all that sheet metal away to the basment which will give me the room in my barely adequate size garage to store the body and sub frame.

At the rate I am going I'll say by June I'll have the sub frame out.

Thanks for asking.
 
How's the car coming? Any updates. I'm thinking I should do the same but not sure it its worth pulling the subframe since my car doesn't have much rust. May do it just so I can do a complete job. What do you guys think. Sorry to thread jack..
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
I went overseas the last month so not much got done. I ended up buying a 2 ton Harbor Freight crane. It was missing bolts and had paint knocked off. They gave it to me for $150. I just pulled off what was left to be removed. I should have the engine and maybe even the frame out next week.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Looks like I am about ready to get that Engine and frame apart.

Few more minor things to remove like speedometer cable and such but I think I got just about everything.

I want to get the car higher but the Harbor Freight jack stands don't go very high. The craftsmans I got on the control arms can go really high if I wanted. Maybe i'll get some more wood blocks for the harbor freight stands.
 

Attachments

So you're pulling the engine/tranny now? Thats good, will make it much easier. Remeber the trans cooler lines are bolted to the oil pan on the passengers side. They will bend if you dont disconnect them from the engine. This is assuming you have an auto and the engine hasn't been out before.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
So you're pulling the engine/tranny now? Thats good, will make it much easier. Remeber the trans cooler lines are bolted to the oil pan on the passengers side. They will bend if you dont disconnect them from the engine. This is assuming you have an auto and the engine hasn't been out before.
Thanks for the tip. I'll check the trans cooler lines. The engine has been out. Someone put a sb Chevy 350 in it but it still has the BOP Turbo 350 Transmission.

It fooled me. I put in 3.73 rear gears a few years back (stock had 2.42 gears.) I bought chevy speedometer gears and what bummer that was to realize I had a BOP trans all along.

I'll be busy the next few days but like I posted before hopefully it will be out this weekend.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Quick questions.

What would be the best way to attach the crane to the engine to pull both engine and trans out? Should I attach brackets to the intake bolts? Should I use the thermostat bolts, etc?

It looks like the headers may not be able to come out with the engine. Do people normally install headers from the bottom? It looks to be a very tight fit.

Thanks in advance.
 
Lift from the front of one head and the back of the other. (front left and back right is what i use because of tranny dipstick tube). Use any grade 5 bolt that fits. I use two from the accessories or intake bolts work too.

Headers are usually easier to install from under but most of the time you can pull them with the engine. Is easier though if you take them off.
 
Boy, what fun I had today.

I removed part of the exhaust(headers to muffler joint pipe) to allow ease when working on the floor rust. Whoever installed it used one of those dumb clamps that crush the pipe. I tried to remove it without cutting but got fustrated and just chopped it off. I'll weld it back later.

I still had the slip yoke in the rear of the tranny. I tried to put a milk jug under it to catch the tranny fluid when I slid the shaft out the rear. The darn uv joint on the shaft hit the funnel spilling tranny fluid all over me and the floor. When I finally got the funnel back under it, turns out the damn jug was leaking.

**************
When all hell was done I was finally ready to pull out the engine/trans. I got the mounts off the frame and tried to slide the engine/tran out. Turns out the header is getting caught on the bottom of the firewall where it meets the floor.

I am done for today. I guess tommorow I have to yank out the headers.

Wish me luck!!!!!
 
Boy, what fun I had today.

I removed part of the exhaust(headers to muffler joint pipe) to allow ease when working on the floor rust. Whoever installed it used one of those dumb clamps that crush the pipe. I tried to remove it without cutting but got fustrated and just chopped it off. I'll weld it back later.

I still had the slip yoke in the rear of the tranny. I tried to put a milk jug under it to catch the tranny fluid when I slid the shaft out the rear. The darn uv joint on the shaft hit the funnel spilling tranny fluid all over me and the floor. When I finally got the funnel back under it, turns out the damn jug was leaking.

**************
When all hell was done I was finally ready to pull out the engine/trans. I got the mounts off the frame and tried to slide the engine/tran out. Turns out the header is getting caught on the bottom of the firewall where it meets the floor.

I am done for today. I guess tommorow I have to yank out the headers.

Wish me luck!!!!!
The F-cars generally won't sallow the engine to be pulled w/the headers attached- as you found out. You don't need to try to remove them, though. Just remove the bolts and slide them away from the engine just enough so they don't catch on anything.

When reinstalling the engine I set the headers loosely into the engine compartment then slip the engine down between them. Tighten once the engine is settled into place.

If you cut the exhaust gaskets (some gaskets come that way) you can install some of the bolts first, then slip the gasket in between the header and head. On a 1-piece exhaust gasket you only need to slot the end holes and maybe one more towards the middle. The exhaust gaskets shown below have worked well for me in the past even though they're made for stock-type cast iron manifolds.

Image


Good luck.
 
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