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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2018, 05:56 PM
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twist lock pieces

I have found that commercial twist lock cords with 20 amp ends last a lot longer. I have a few 6 outlet spider construction boxes with 50 amp hart plugs for in and out. I have a few short adaptors that go from 110v twist to household straight blade w grd. I have found more problems with house hold connection cords. you can buy 110v 20 amp commercial recepticals. They have a t slot and last longer.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2018, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjgord51 View Post
My bad for the (never seen) part, should have said/read (never used). This is what happens when staying up all night and being awake for 24 hours straight. Don't know why anybody would suggest using that small of cord to someone for getting power for a 100' run and from someone that's an Engineer from this and that company that's just dumb.
I never suggested to the OP to use those 13 amp and 10 amp cords, I just showed those for YOUR info... and mentioned them to the OP as an example of amperage of lighter duty wires...

Most ranch houses with power coming into a box at one end of the house and the garage on the other end of the house prolly already have 100' of #12 wire going to the garage outlets...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2018, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002 View Post
Hi I'm trying to find out if I need to put in a dedicated circuit to run a 100' 10 gauge extension cord. I actually have 220 available and I'm wondering if I can simply run off of that with an adapter and not worry about voltage drops? Or should I put in a 110 with a 35A breaker? Thanks.
Todd, I think if I have understood (re read every thing) this hole question and what you have already re wired (Dryer plug) to its new location in the garage right this is what I think will work for you with out cutting the driveway concrete. Keeping in mind your House Main Panel is in the Garage or at least accessible for the job to work for you.

Here we go.
If you can re run the old dryer wire (30 amps, 10 gauge, 10/3 wire) to a new location j-box somewhere that you don't have to cut the driveway concrete and you have a clear path under your grass idea and stay under the 100' you will have two 15 amp circuits in the end results in the shed and that should be good for what you want. All under ground wires need to be in Electrical PVC conduit being a complete enclosed chase way from Garage j-box to the shed j-box. j-box = junction box.
Keeping in mind that you stay with the 10 gauge wire all the way from House Main Panel to the shed. If this works for you change out the Original 30 amp double/two pole breaker to two single pole 15 amp breakers and wire your shed as you like.
If all the above works for you but you get Nervous about the initial 100" run ( if it is 100") then change out the original 10 gauge dryer wire to a 8/3 wire all the way from House Main Panel to the sheds j-box and down size the wire to 12 gauge or even 14 gauge wire to all of the plugs you want.
All the above has been considered as you have stated the Welder wont even draw 15 amps.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL View Post
I never suggested to the OP to use those 13 amp and 10 amp cords, I just showed those for YOUR info... and mentioned them to the OP as an example of amperage of lighter duty wires...

Most ranch houses with power coming into a box at one end of the house and the garage on the other end of the house prolly already have 100' of #12 wire going to the garage outlets...

Again from what you claim to be an "Engineer" WHY would you suggest using too anyone for that matter a smaller 13 amp or even 10 amp cord for anybody wanting or even getting 15 amps to a distance of 100' away from a given source. Do yourself and others a favor and re think any solutions you give to someone and keep in mind you did say you are or were a engineer right!
I am not trying to put you down just want to show others when you suggested the 10 and 13 amp cords usages it didn't fit in this Thread as the OP said that there was a 100' distance to be considered that's all.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2018, 05:56 PM
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At 100 feet of 10awg, voltage drop will be about 4 volts at 20 amp draw.
8awg, would drop about 2.5 volts at 100ft, and 20 amp draw.
The voltage drop is the same whether 120v or 240v.

So first thing to do is figure out exactly what the voltage at your outlet is. It could be as low as 110, or as high as 130 RMS. (RMS or Root Mean Square voltage is what you will read on a voltmeter) Then find out exactly what voltage your welder runs on, (should be on the data tag) probably 117, or 120. Then, determine whether there will be enough voltage at the end of 100 feet to power it. A 6awg wire has a drop of about a volt, and would most likely work just fine for about anything that runs on 120.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2018, 06:09 PM
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I have a 100 foot 10/3 cord and it works fine with my small welder. All I can say about this subject..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2018, 04:50 PM
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Electrician project is looking very pricey and I need to get started. I’ve got a 5000 watt generator rated for 41.6 Amps at 120 volts. That should be more than enough for a 120 volt welder drawing 20 Amps max? The receptacles are rated at 20 Amps each

Last edited by ToddMcF2002; 04-18-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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