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Old 10-17-2019, 10:07 PM
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12” Clutch

I have a 12” clutch on a 454 Gen V engine and would like to use a Hays 10-235 flywheel. While the pressure plate does bolt up, the clutch disk partially covers some holes drilled in the flywheel. Will this matter?

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Old 10-18-2019, 06:25 AM
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No, it won't matter at all. I've put the 12" clutch in place of 11" pieces before, on the same flywheels made for the 11" clutch package. No problems.
Those holes will eventually fill up with clutch dust, but it doesn't hurt anything..
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Old 10-22-2019, 06:51 AM
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Thank you for your answer, Eric.
I replaced the ring gear and dropped it off to be resurfaced. The shop called and said there was a bad warp in it and they couldn’t resurface it. What’s the deal, I thought that was partially the reason to get it resurfaced? Is it scrap?
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:27 AM
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If you cut too much off of the fly wheel surface you will have problems with the clutch hub springs rubbing on the heads of the fly wheel bolts.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:33 AM
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If it is warped too much, when they resurface it then the thickness varies, and it will soon warp out of flat again when put into use.

Pretty much just like how a warped brake rotor reacts after being resurfaced.

I'd want the shop to tell me just how much warp they measured, as in how many thousandths of an inch??.....many shops are scaredy cats and way overly cautious. I can see their point with cast flywheels, but with steel billet it isn't like it is going to explode in use.....it'll just warp again.
Anything under .015" TIR can easily be fixed, but they may not be willing to do it.

Having a lathe at home, I turn mine flat rather than have them ground, then sand or bead blast it to get an even finish, as per Centerforces recommendation years ago for flywheel prep on something that didn't have the option of break-in miles on the flywheel and disc, so you could install the clutch and go to the track the next night.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
If you cut too much off of the fly wheel surface you will have problems with the clutch hub springs rubbing on the heads of the fly wheel bolts.
Good point, I didn't even think about that. Should be easy enough to lay the disc there and check it though, see how much room you've got for cutting..
ARP flywheel bolts generally have a slightly thinner head than factory stuff, that may be of help to you.
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Old 10-25-2019, 10:14 PM
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I took the flywheel to a “real” machine shop that had good equipment. He said it was only out .006 TIR and he did a beautiful job and charged me less than the first place. I will remember this place!
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Vette View Post
I took the flywheel to a “real” machine shop that had good equipment. He said it was only out .006 TIR and he did a beautiful job and charged me less than the first place. I will remember this place!

The shop I use has been around since 1968, lots of knowledge goes a long way in getting things done right the 1st time. I have never seen a flywheel un-usable unless it looked like it was flat-out abused.


Years back I used a Schiefer flywheel behind a SBC with a stock style clutch disc. First ride... what a racket! The flywheel was made to be used with an un-dampened disc. Live and learn.
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Old 10-28-2019, 02:16 PM
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I've got a steel flywheel that is unusable. It's been cut so many times that the clutch hub springs grind the heads of the flywheel bolts. I tried using ARP bolts with no washers and they still don't clear. I guess if you used a unsprung clutch you might be able to use it.
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