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123pugsy 08-18-2019 12:10 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Seam sealer, StarDate: June 18, 2014................








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123pugsy 08-18-2019 12:37 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Warp Speed, StarDate: August 17, 2019............

DELIRIOUS is back in the garage. First item is fitting the fenders to the cowls. I welded new flanges on about 10 years ago. One has been cut off already. I need to create both the new flange and cowl patch at the same time, to be the exact same shape for an excellent fit.



I tipped the flange by using a 1/4" wide chisel on the inside of the the bend line. I then grabbed an adjustable wrench to finish. Still needs a whack of shrinking/stretching, changing the flange angle. Every time the angle changes a wee bit, more shrinking/stretching is req'd the keep the proper shape. These pieces may take about a month the get squared away.









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idrivejunk 08-18-2019 02:31 PM

Body looks fantastic in epoxy!

If I may ask... Will you continue to use lead? Was there a choice between it and the gold stuff? I am curious what led you to lead. Pun inadvertent. Feel free to ignore the Q if you'd prefer. I am only curious because I have not applied lead.

123pugsy 08-18-2019 03:17 PM

Thanks.


Lead worked great from the factory. Even 70 years later, it was still OK. Lots of horror stories, but my research tells me grains of sand from sandpaper lead to paint failures. (no pun intended) I used a body file only and made sure to leave it low for a skim of Bondo over the epoxy over the lead.


I will be using metal in the C pillars at chop time so I only see a wee bit more to use.

123pugsy 08-18-2019 03:20 PM

Did you notice the drawing taped to the fender in the last batch of pics?

idrivejunk 08-21-2019 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123pugsy (Post 4690207)
Thanks.


Lead worked great from the factory. Even 70 years later, it was still OK. Lots of horror stories, but my research tells me grains of sand from sandpaper lead to paint failures. (no pun intended) I used a body file only and made sure to leave it low for a skim of Bondo over the epoxy over the lead.


I will be using metal in the C pillars at chop time so I only see a wee bit more to use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123pugsy (Post 4690211)
Did you notice the drawing taped to the fender in the last batch of pics?

O'course.:rolleyes:


:D If it works for you, theres an idea. Easy pieces. Rough em all in, then fuss over fit.:)

Some lead did work great from the factory. Maybe not a whole car's worth at a time. On the muscle era stuff, my experience has been jab it with a screwdriver and twist it right out then fix rust. But on the prewar job I have now, there was some liberal usage of lead that was fine still. Probably comparing apples to oranges there.

Depending on the circumstances of course, the shop's go-to solution at factory overlaps on skin is cut and butt followed in preference by patching over. Only on roof corners, really though.

Keep a' goin....

123pugsy 08-21-2019 08:16 PM

I've got the cowl patch coming along nicely. Since I've already cut off the fender flange, I am going to make the new flange tipped out so I can butt weld to the fender face about a 1/2" in from the edge. No choice as the fender just won't line up to the cowl without adding a sliver of metal to almost the whole edge. I'm thinking this project will go two months or better to dial things in perfectly. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

idrivejunk 08-21-2019 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123pugsy (Post 4690735)
I've got the cowl patch coming along nicely. Since I've already cut off the fender flange, I am going to make the new flange tipped out so I can butt weld to the fender face about a 1/2" in from the edge. No choice as the fender just won't line up to the cowl without adding a sliver of metal to almost the whole edge. I'm thinking this project will go two months or better to dial things in perfectly. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Thats a solid tactic, do that. I would make it all up with it overlapping the cowl skin then spray paint the edge. Sometimes I add a felt tip line past the paint mark and leave that then sneak up on it. Thats how to make a unique patch... you 'neak up on it.;)

If you were using MIG, it likes a little gap. :thumbup: I am usually able to cut both layers at once then remove the scrap and have it work well, welding that way.:)

123pugsy 08-26-2019 07:33 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Got the cowl patch dialing in. The fender at the bottom was turning in too sharply so I uncurled the bottom lip and applied the manual stretcher to it. The line on the cardboard is before the whacking started.




https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/att...1&d=1566865855






https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/att...1&d=1566865874




https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/att...1&d=1566865959

123pugsy 08-26-2019 07:36 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I started on the patch that will weld to the edge of the fender and bolt on to the cowl.




https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/att...1&d=1566866085






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123pugsy 08-26-2019 07:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Just keep a tapping away, a bit of shrinking and stretching. I Cleco'd them together to see the status.




https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/att...1&d=1566866314






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MARTINSR 08-26-2019 08:31 PM

Your work could be left just like that, just put that hanging on a wall, it is ART! You are something else Pugsy.

Brian

idrivejunk 08-26-2019 08:54 PM

Yeah! :thumbup:

Chisel scoring and edge tool...

Somebody gimme somethin' to write on. :cool:

Too Many Projects 08-26-2019 10:23 PM

At the rate you are going, I don't see this taking 2 months. I think you under estimate your skill and ability.;)

123pugsy 08-27-2019 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 4691557)
At the rate you are going, I don't see this taking 2 months. I think you under estimate your skill and ability.;)


Thanks.

However, in metal shaping the the first 90% of the part takes 10% of the required time. :drunk:


Dialing it in perfectly will be a chore. Then rinse, repeat, for the other side.


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