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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2019, 12:10 PM
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Seam sealer, StarDate: June 18, 2014................





















































































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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2019, 12:37 PM
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Warp Speed, StarDate: August 17, 2019............

DELIRIOUS is back in the garage. First item is fitting the fenders to the cowls. I welded new flanges on about 10 years ago. One has been cut off already. I need to create both the new flange and cowl patch at the same time, to be the exact same shape for an excellent fit.



I tipped the flange by using a 1/4" wide chisel on the inside of the the bend line. I then grabbed an adjustable wrench to finish. Still needs a whack of shrinking/stretching, changing the flange angle. Every time the angle changes a wee bit, more shrinking/stretching is req'd the keep the proper shape. These pieces may take about a month the get squared away.

















































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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2019, 02:31 PM
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Body looks fantastic in epoxy!

If I may ask... Will you continue to use lead? Was there a choice between it and the gold stuff? I am curious what led you to lead. Pun inadvertent. Feel free to ignore the Q if you'd prefer. I am only curious because I have not applied lead.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2019, 03:17 PM
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Thanks.


Lead worked great from the factory. Even 70 years later, it was still OK. Lots of horror stories, but my research tells me grains of sand from sandpaper lead to paint failures. (no pun intended) I used a body file only and made sure to leave it low for a skim of Bondo over the epoxy over the lead.


I will be using metal in the C pillars at chop time so I only see a wee bit more to use.
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2019, 03:20 PM
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Did you notice the drawing taped to the fender in the last batch of pics?
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Thanks.


Lead worked great from the factory. Even 70 years later, it was still OK. Lots of horror stories, but my research tells me grains of sand from sandpaper lead to paint failures. (no pun intended) I used a body file only and made sure to leave it low for a skim of Bondo over the epoxy over the lead.


I will be using metal in the C pillars at chop time so I only see a wee bit more to use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Did you notice the drawing taped to the fender in the last batch of pics?
O'course.


If it works for you, theres an idea. Easy pieces. Rough em all in, then fuss over fit.

Some lead did work great from the factory. Maybe not a whole car's worth at a time. On the muscle era stuff, my experience has been jab it with a screwdriver and twist it right out then fix rust. But on the prewar job I have now, there was some liberal usage of lead that was fine still. Probably comparing apples to oranges there.

Depending on the circumstances of course, the shop's go-to solution at factory overlaps on skin is cut and butt followed in preference by patching over. Only on roof corners, really though.

Keep a' goin....
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2019, 08:16 PM
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I've got the cowl patch coming along nicely. Since I've already cut off the fender flange, I am going to make the new flange tipped out so I can butt weld to the fender face about a 1/2" in from the edge. No choice as the fender just won't line up to the cowl without adding a sliver of metal to almost the whole edge. I'm thinking this project will go two months or better to dial things in perfectly.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2019, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
I've got the cowl patch coming along nicely. Since I've already cut off the fender flange, I am going to make the new flange tipped out so I can butt weld to the fender face about a 1/2" in from the edge. No choice as the fender just won't line up to the cowl without adding a sliver of metal to almost the whole edge. I'm thinking this project will go two months or better to dial things in perfectly.
Thats a solid tactic, do that. I would make it all up with it overlapping the cowl skin then spray paint the edge. Sometimes I add a felt tip line past the paint mark and leave that then sneak up on it. Thats how to make a unique patch... you 'neak up on it.

If you were using MIG, it likes a little gap. I am usually able to cut both layers at once then remove the scrap and have it work well, welding that way.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 07:33 PM
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Got the cowl patch dialing in. The fender at the bottom was turning in too sharply so I uncurled the bottom lip and applied the manual stretcher to it. The line on the cardboard is before the whacking started.
















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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 07:36 PM
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I started on the patch that will weld to the edge of the fender and bolt on to the cowl.










































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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 07:39 PM
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Just keep a tapping away, a bit of shrinking and stretching. I Cleco'd them together to see the status.


















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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 08:31 PM
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Your work could be left just like that, just put that hanging on a wall, it is ART! You are something else Pugsy.

Brian
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 08:54 PM
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Yeah!

Chisel scoring and edge tool...

Somebody gimme somethin' to write on.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 10:23 PM
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At the rate you are going, I don't see this taking 2 months. I think you under estimate your skill and ability.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 03:45 AM
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At the rate you are going, I don't see this taking 2 months. I think you under estimate your skill and ability.

Thanks.

However, in metal shaping the the first 90% of the part takes 10% of the required time.


Dialing it in perfectly will be a chore. Then rinse, repeat, for the other side.
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