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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 04:53 AM
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The first side, is the major learning curve. The second side takes half the time.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
The first side, is the major learning curve. The second side takes half the time.

I'll buy what you're selling here........
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Thanks.

However, in metal shaping the the first 90% of the part takes 10% of the required time.


Dialing it in perfectly will be a chore. Then rinse, repeat, for the other side.
The frustrating thing is after you reach what you hope is perfection, you have to weld it and figure out how to keep it perfect.

Good luck. we are enjoying following along.

John
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
The frustrating thing is after you reach what you hope is perfection, you have to weld it and figure out how to keep it perfect.

Good luck. we are enjoying following along.

John

Ya, this part is nerve racking for sure.
The fender is quite strong and should hold but the cowl will be hard as heck to planish if required.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
The first side, is the major learning curve. The second side takes half the time.
But the first one usually looks better. I haven't figured that out yet but speaking for myself... yep.

Second side has to mirror the first and just that can offset most of the design time on the first.

I may be interested in what you're selling but would you mind if I kick the tires please?
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2019, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
But the first one usually looks better. I haven't figured that out yet but speaking for myself... yep.

Second side has to mirror the first and just that can offset most of the design time on the first.

I may be interested in what you're selling but would you mind if I kick the tires please?
But at least I have an idea what the heck I'm looking to accomplish with the second side. The first is usually in the "no clue" category and trial and error take time.
Kick away at those tires, but I claim no liability if the sidewalls are rotten and come apart...
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2019, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
But at least I have an idea what the heck I'm looking to accomplish with the second side. The first is usually in the "no clue" category and trial and error take time.
Kick away at those tires, but I claim no liability if the sidewalls are rotten and come apart...
This, I'll buy. My current task is a good example. The sidewalls are fine.

Sketches can help minimize time spent just staring and thinking while on the clock. If I clock in without an idea and have to dream it up on the spot as I make it... wow yeah is that ever time consuming. I end up throwing something bunk together and have to start over plus write down that I sat and pondered for a half hour then made scraps for two hours.

Thats why Pugsy's work is amazing... it is normally very well thought out on the first shot.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2019, 06:41 PM
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My favorite post dolly. This makes moving bends over just too easy.


Posting this because I had to move a bend on piece #1 , After grinding and buffing, with a shine on, I could see there was a part of the bend that looked kinda straight compared to the rest.


Also posting in case Matt is still taking notes......










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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 05:18 AM
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I got the nut retaining strip cut and spot welded on. 14 ga steel. I drilled and brazed some grade 8 nuts on. I've cut the cowl and just need to trim the patch edge and tack it in. Scary stuff as everything I've done to this point, I've had access to the back of for planishing.









































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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 08:07 AM
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If I may... Why braze the nuts?

Hope theres a useful nugget somewhere below in this, not just all wordy words.

Looks good. I would like to ease your mind about the skin joint but MIG is all I know. The only tips I can think of which might apply to either method would be:

Pull studs or tabs. As you tack and grind. If needed, and / or after welding. Pull lows up, or re-slice the spot and try again with the rest of the seam welded if theres a big hump that heat and cold wet rag won't handle. But you know all that and probably the rest of this too. When I tack long seams for MIG (fitted with a small gap), the tacks can serve as pull points themselves if they sink in. A little hook made of a scrap can get behind the tack through the gap so you can tug on it.

If possible and if it makes sense to you, turn the roto to make the driver's side face the sky and weld on a ladder or stool. The thought there is that some of the heat can leave the panel without spreading to the surrounding metal. Not sure just how valid that tip is but I have found it to maybe help a little. Gravity against the crown seems a lesser evil than heat traveling upward through the panel to escape.

So I understand and in case others wonder... what gauge is the skin patch? If I may ask.

14 gauge for the nut plate ought to be mighty stout. Hopefully the grade 8 nuts will never need to be better than 5s.

Is there no good spot for an access window for a dolly behind the cowl? Kinda looks that way. I am confident that you'll do fine and should not fear this going terribly awry. Because the danger in standing on a cliff is not in standing on a cliff, it is in being unwary there. What you may have to work at is defining "perfection". Just be reasonable, its a rod that any goof on the road can destroy without a thought. Perish the thought but thats the reality. Chances of it staying perfect are no better than any other vehicle.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 08:48 AM
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Braze is done with the TIG. The rod is silicon bronze. It melts at a lower heat and it helps the plating on the nut from spitting.
Not much strength required. Only to keep them from rotating.

I just finished pre-stretching the edges of the patch and the cowl. Let's see if that helps.

Roto is in the shed. Working on the hoist currently.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 08:51 AM
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Patch is sitting in position pretty good with nothing holding it so it's welding time.........




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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 09:37 AM
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Pugsy, you have awakened a desire in me to learn more about metal working. I may or may not live long enough to use the knowledge, but your talent just knocks me out and I can see where this work would really make a fellow feel good about himself. This is the first project car that I have kept up with and looked forward to the next page. You Sir, are my hero.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for the kind words Richard. It's only about a 24 hour drive to Toronto. The Hogtown Metal Shaping Meet is in October. There will be a few guys there that will be happy to teach you how to twist metal.

I got the piece all tacked in....phew...it fit.
A few gaps here and there. I'll skip around and weld 1/2" at a time.

I lied earlier. Only the bottom part in inaccessible. I can remove the firewall to get a hammer in at least the whole top half....sweet.




















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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2019, 02:05 PM
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Some ugly welding as the cowl is 22 ga and I did about 1/2" at a time, trying not to blow holes in the thinner cowl material.



























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