1953 Chevy Pick-up with 1977 Nova subframe - Page 6 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2013, 04:51 PM
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77 to 90 The later ones will work, but have mounts for ABS

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo View Post
77 to 90 The later ones will work, but have mounts for ABS
My fault, I was not specific enough.

What era b-body inner bearing and seal?
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2013, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Heilman181 View Post
My fault, I was not specific enough.

What era b-body inner bearing and seal?

73 to 90 I believe it's set 6
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:01 PM
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73 to 90 I believe it's set 6
Thanks, I appreciate it!
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:17 PM
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Here are a few pictures of the completed sub frame graft.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:20 PM
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Here is a picture from overhead and a close up of inside the frame rail too!
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:17 PM
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Since taking this picture, we have gotten the old GM 10 bolt,rear end, shocks, springs, and spring hangers removed.

Now is time to put in the Ford 8.8" rear end and Explorer springs. The existing front spring hanger from the Explorer will work perfectly. The rear shackles will take a little fab work though.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:08 PM
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Do you guys have any brainstorms for the rear shackle setup?

When everything is squared up, the rear eyelet on the springs are sitting half under the frame rail and half sticking inside the frame rails.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Heilman181 View Post
Do you guys have any brainstorms for the rear shackle setup?

When everything is squared up, the rear eyelet on the springs are sitting half under the frame rail and half sticking inside the frame rails.
I am looking at a set of Jeep Cherokee XJ shackles. They look like the correct length, but I need to find more info on the width.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:32 PM
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Take 4 pieces of 3/8 x 2.5 in bend them to correct offset drill holes ,bolt on ..problem solved. now if it were that easy,but it will work if the shackles ar over 6 in long I would weld a support strap to inner ond outer shackle arm for added strength and to keep it from having a soft roll feel .
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Randy has done a number of these clips, I have done one, so I dumbed it down to ensure that it was proper and I didn't screw up some how.

I wanted the front end at ride height so there was nothing to figure out with the arch of the control arms and where the center of the hub was going to end up with it compressed down at ride height. I don't know how much of an issue this is but I too had seen so many of these trucks with the wheels too far back I didn't want to do what ever it was they did so I put it at ride height so I couldn't screw it up.

I removed the shocks and put a piece of all thread in their place. I tightened the nuts on the all thread compressing the springs down to where I had measured was the distance between the rubber bumpers on the control arm and the crossmember on the car I took the sub frame from at ride height. It was a 78ish Camaro and was very near the same weight as the truck so to use this measurement made sense to me. With that sub frame at the ride height it would be when the truck is done I trimmed the frame and sub frame to mate.

I put the rear of the truck at the ride height I planned for it with the frame sitting on jack stands.

I rolled the sub frame up to the frame temporarily clamped it in place after measuring the wheelbase. I then put the front sheet metal on the truck to find that it was in deed a little too far back! A quarter inch can make a difference! I moved it forward until it was right and tack welded it in place, removed everything and finish weldng it.

One very important thing I also did was to check the angle of the upper control arm shafts on the donor car at ride height with a protractor and make sure they are the same on your truck when you put the sub frame into place. It can then be aligned properly without any offset shafts and crap like that (I learned that from a guy who had to do just that) It can be aligned just like the donor car was, nothing for the alignment shop to figure out and have their head explode when they are asked to align your customized truck.

I didn't like how wide the Camaro was, WAY too wide for these trucks, and the front steer is a mess if you ask me. With a rear steer it will be a LOT better so you don't have cut up the rad support all to hell. If it's the same track width as the Camaro which I thought the Nova was, I highly recommend going a different route, a Mustang II, an 80ish Malibu is a few inches narrower. But honestly, with it lowered down where we all like'm that Camaro front was WAY too wide and needed very narrow tires with a negative offset wheel to work without hitting the fenders.

Brian

Edit: I just read that it was a front steer......I would HIGHLY recommend against it. Unless you plan on changing out the rad support and extensive mods like a cross flow rad and that sort of thing, I highly recommend against the front steer. The box ends up exactly where your rad support is and it has to be cut up pretty bad to clear the box.
Hey, check out my rear steer nova clip at adsmtz on this site. I to was going to use a 77 nova clip. I cut and narrowed it 1.5 and it seemed to wide. Just as mention, had to cut/ notch radiator support. I did the Foose treatment on mine, 3/4 of inch forward of the center of wheel weld and 1.5 in the back. Make sure the lower a arms are level and get your ride hight where you want it. Ads
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2014, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Take 4 pieces of 3/8 x 2.5 in bend them to correct offset drill holes ,bolt on ..problem solved. now if it were that easy,but it will work if the shackles ar over 6 in long I would weld a support strap to inner ond outer shackle arm for added strength and to keep it from having a soft roll feel .
I want to keep the shackle length as short as possible, that is why I was looking at the XJ shackles. Plus this would give me bushings in the spring and shackle both.
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by enjenjo View Post
If you have a 75 to 79 X subframe, yes. But the A and G, and S body spindles are shorter, increasing the camber gain on body roll, the tires will lean in a lot more at the top when the body rolls. I would not recommend using them.

If you use a B body spindle, it bolts in the X body sub. If you want a 4.5" bolt pattern, use a 72 mercury Marquis 12" rotor, with the B body inner bearing and seal, and a 90s Camaro set 34 outer bearing. It all bolts up, and will work with the GM caliper.

To clarify,

1 64 to 72 A and G body, 68 to 74 X body, and 67 to 69 F body all use the same spindle. all have 11" disc, or 10" drums. drum spindles can be converted to disc with minor machine work. These can be front or rear steer depending on application, and which bolt on steering arm is used.

2 70 to 82 F body, 73 to 77 A and G body, and 75 to 79 X body, and 78 to 96 B body with a 4 3/4" bolt pattern, all use the same spindle. These all use 11" disc brakes.

3 71 to 77 B body, 78 to 96 B body with 5" bolt pattern all use the same spindle. These use 12" disc brakes.

4 78 to 87 A and G body, 82 to 94 S10, use the same spindle.

All number two and number three spindles use the same ball joint, and tie rod end taper, and are the same spindle height. they functionally interchange.

Number four spindles use the same ball joint and tie rod taper as number two and three, but are 1.5" shorter in height. Switching a 2 or 3 to 4 is not recommended, but switching the other way, number four to two or three, works good by reducing camber gain for better handling.

If you want Ford brakes, mid 80s Crown Vic spindles will fit by using the Crown Vic lower ball joint, which requires some machine work, and the Crown Vic tie rod end. These will be 11" disc brakes, with a 5 lug 4.5" bolt pattern.

I am not having any luck mounting the B-body spindles!

The lower ball joint fits fine, but the taper in the upper ball joint is not working. The upper ball joint is larger than the taper in the spindle.

Any thoughts?
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2015, 03:41 PM
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I don't know what year spindle you have, The correct part number for the ball joint is 260-1091. It fits virtually every GM rear drive car from 1972 to 1996. I have reamed spindles to fit larger ball joints, but I have never had to do it with these spindles.

I sent you a PM.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo View Post
I don't know what year spindle you have, The correct part number for the ball joint is 260-1091. It fits virtually every GM rear drive car from 1972 to 1996. I have reamed spindles to fit larger ball joints, but I have never had to do it with these spindles.

I sent you a PM.
I have the Moog K5208 upper ball joint which crosses to the Napa 260-1091. The spindles were off a 1995-96 Caprice.
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