1954 GMC Door adjustment - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1954 GMC Door adjustment

I am looking for help with how to adjust the doors on my 54 GMC pickup. My problem is the doors shut good at the top but they stick out on the bottoms. I dont see any way to adjust the door bottoms in closer to the cab. Thanks in advance.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 02:01 AM
John long's Avatar
Slow but willing learner
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Age: 74
Posts: 4,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5,504
Thanked 7,872 Times in 4,073 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gr8medic View Post
I am looking for help with how to adjust the doors on my 54 GMC pickup. My problem is the doors shut good at the top but they stick out on the bottoms. I dont see any way to adjust the door bottoms in closer to the cab. Thanks in advance.
Usually the doors are adjusted to line up at the B pillars and then the front fenders are adjusted to correct the gaps at the A pillars. Finally the hood is abjuted last. On some cars the hood must be adjusted to the cowl first and the fenders are fitted to the hood and doors. It is indeed a "dance". On top of that, frequently the upper door (window frame area) gets out of shape or the door gets twisted. A good bodyman can do wonders with a block of wood.

There are always exceptions to every rule. Sometimes bodywork has been done and the door is out of shape, or the body for that matter. Not only were trucks not made to the same standard that cars were, they have been beat up and treated as a tool. Yours for 64 years.

I wish you had titled your thread with the help you needed. MartinSR is a proffesional autobody tech and has owned one of these trucks his whole adult life. He would be the go to guy for your truck. Hopefully Brian will read this and give you more advise than I am able to do.

Good luck and post pictures if you can.

John

Last edited by John long; 07-12-2018 at 02:10 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:23 AM
John long's Avatar
Slow but willing learner
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Age: 74
Posts: 4,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5,504
Thanked 7,872 Times in 4,073 Posts
I was almost asleep when it occurred to me the truck fenders do not meet the front of the door and have nothing to do with door gaps. The reply above would apply to a car but not the trucks.

Question: Do both doors stick out at the bottom? Many times a rusted body mount or incooerctly shimmed body will cause the body to twist. This will make one boor stick out but cause the other door to sri k out at the top.

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 08:29 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 60
Posts: 16,148
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,249
Thanked 6,714 Times in 4,313 Posts
Are the doors in too much at the A pillar? Because that is the only way it could be out at the bottom rear without the cab being distorted as John mentioned.

Even if the top front is perfect you can move them out a little there to get the bottom to come in making the front "sorta good" instead of perfect to get the rear "sorta good" instead of horrible, get what I mean?

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
54 chevy truck door adjustment

Thanks everyone for the help. Do any of you know how to shim these doors in or out? My problem is that one door is perfect at the top but sticks out 1/2 inch at the bottom. At one time I had it perfect but then had to remove the door to put new seals on them and now the problem has arisen. I have checked the new seal at the bottom and it fits well so I am left scratching my head. Any ideas?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:33 PM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NW AR
Age: 53
Posts: 3,788
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,157
Thanked 4,808 Times in 2,854 Posts
I just so happen to have a 54 handy, its our "sign".

Looks like in / out adjustment is where hinge meets pillar, but shims could possibly be stacked between hinge and door shell.

Just providing a visual here really. Hope its the right kinda truck.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20180712_132330.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	432831   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180712_132306.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	95.9 KB
ID:	432833   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180712_132236.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	78.6 KB
ID:	432835  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2018, 08:21 AM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 3,118
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,161
Thanked 679 Times in 556 Posts
your tilt adjustments should be on the a pillar. Probably lame phillips#3. Get an impact, penetrating oil, and let it sit. Then pull out your door up top which will bring it in at the bottom. Then adjust the fender and it will probably be a pain to readjust as opposed to a 60s and beyond car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2018, 06:01 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: N Ga.
Posts: 859
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 33
Thanked 88 Times in 77 Posts
You will find 3 phillips head screws, and two hex head bolts holding the hinge to the pillar.
The phillips heads do nothing much, it's the bolts that you need to loosen to adjust the door in and out.
That said, does the door line up with the hinge pillar? If so, and it's out at the bottom rear, the door may be twisted some. If the door clicks closed with light pressure, perfectly aligned, without the seals installed, then install the seals and it won't close, or is out of alignment, the seals are the problem.

Those doors must be lined up with the pillar, and back of the cab. When you get to that point, then, and only then, can you remove the door from the hinge, leaving the hinge firmly bolted to the pillar. install the new rubbers, then re-install the door. The only adjustment at that point needing anything would be the fore, and aft adjustment on the hinge inside the door.
It's pretty much the same hinge get-up as the cars of that era, only the door lines solely with the cab, and not the fenders.
Another thing I've run into on vehicles of that vintage is the hinge mounts inside the door, or on the pillar, being rusted out just enough (but in places that can't be seen) that I could adjust everything perfectly before paint, and new seals. Then the pressure of the new seals causes failure of the attach points causing mis-alignment. And no way to get it back in line without major surgery.
New AM door rubbers can be a real PITA on an otherwise perfectly fitting door.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2018, 12:27 AM
bullheimer's Avatar
NEVER use credit cards!
 

Last journal entry: car with tt2's, (stockers going back on)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 3,088
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 61
Thanked 73 Times in 58 Posts
is there no adjustment on the part of the lower hinge that bolts into the cab? been a long time since i've had mine apart and dont know if they are exactly they same as yours but have to ASSume so. any existing shims you can remove? just guessing
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2018, 09:23 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 60
Posts: 16,148
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,249
Thanked 6,714 Times in 4,313 Posts
There is VERY LITTLE in and out alignment to these hinges. One thing that can help is to add the last bolt down in the hinge that GM added on the later cars and trucks.





The red dot is the hinge pin, moving the location of the pin in or out is way more important than moving the hinge where it bolts to the cab. Now of course you would think moving the hinge where it bolts to the cab would move this pin, but not always, it rocks a bit and you can move the hinge without moving the pin as much.

I put these bolts (the blue dot) in my truck so I can have more control over that pin location. The bummer is you have to have the inner cowl panel out to do it, I welded in a flat stock with a hole threaded for a nut back in there.

It's funny because I noticed this on a 55 Chevy sedan I was working on, they had these bolts back in there where my truck at home didn't, the holes where there but not bolt, interesting.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to MARTINSR For This Useful Post:
idrivejunk (07-22-2018)

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1954 Chevy Pickup Door windows Boulderdesign54Chevy General Rodding Tech 4 05-17-2007 06:35 AM
1954 Chevy Pickup Door windows Boulderdesign54Chevy Introduce Yourself 2 05-09-2007 11:42 AM
1947 to 1954 GMC Body Style Poolpro51 Body - Exterior 11 01-05-2005 09:20 PM
1954 GMC Inline 6 with Saginaw tranny Erik Transmission - Rearend 0 12-01-2003 09:46 PM
1954 GMC V6 3 speed on the floor swap out Flaming54 Engine 3 10-16-2003 05:02 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.