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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2016, 10:44 PM
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Because a picture is worth a thousand words- this is what I mean. Oh and Chucky I see your info says you're in LA. I'm in AR but was Natchitoches Central class of 84. Woot! They sure grow some nice looking women down there.
idrivejunk, that was very much the post I was looking for here. Thank you for the time to write that up and the picture too. I was thinking about something like that, just didn't think of the lap weld. Most of the metal back there is good and from seeing some of the youtube videos and pictures I really think I lucked out with the amount of rust I got.

I feel like I got to say that it wasn't me who put a rivet under the paint. I'm almost scared to see what I'll find under the paint when I replace the metal back there. Must have been rear ended at some time, there is bondo on both sides.

I'm around the Lafayette, LA area now but the car and myself are both from California.

I guess the next step is cutting the old out, right?

Thank you guys again for the help.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2016, 05:51 AM
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Yep, if there's no other things to decide right now go for it. If, once you start, you decide to put more of the patch in... you'll still have that option. So wait until the old metal is cut away and everything is clean and looks like a go, then chop your new patch and apply coatings as desired... And make the repair. If something pops up that you wonder about during the process we are here. Show us how you do when it's did!
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:54 AM
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Are you thinking of flanging the panel to go behind the original ? Without a flange, you may end up with the 2 panels binding and wanting to bulge out. Once both parts are cut down, you can test fit and decide. The flange will require less filler and blending too.

What part of Cali was the car from ? I have a '67 Camaro from the San Fran area and it has almost as much salt rust as a Mn car...

The lower area behind the rear wheels and around the tail lights may have patch panels from rust repair. Many times they are pop riveted on...
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Are you thinking of flanging the panel to go behind the original ? Without a flange, you may end up with the 2 panels binding and wanting to bulge out. Once both parts are cut down, you can test fit and decide. The flange will require less filler and blending too.

What part of Cali was the car from ? I have a '67 Camaro from the San Fran area and it has almost as much salt rust as a Mn car...

The lower area behind the rear wheels and around the tail lights may have patch panels from rust repair. Many times they are pop riveted on...
I was suggesting to yeah, just shove the new in there behind the old without a flange. Don't know for sure that it works on these but he could always put a flange and go just a little lower. Or use a backing plate. Our hero may just have needed a little encouragement and I'm sure he will use common sense in the garage and ask more questions here if not comfortable to proceed.
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:02 PM
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I was suggesting to yeah, just shove the new in there behind the old without a flange. Don't know for sure that it works on these but he could always put a flange and go just a little lower. Or use a backing plate. Our hero may just have needed a little encouragement and I'm sure he will use common sense in the garage and ask more questions here if not comfortable to proceed.
It'll take a day or two before I get to cutting it out. I got a flanger and 3 inch cut off tool coming tomorrow via Amazon prime. I'll find out how my stupid air compressor likes the cut off tool. I really hate my oilless compressor.

I was thinking I would see how it would fit before I flanged the patch. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go on.


In the mean time here is the not so good side view of what I got to work with. Picture was taken where I got the window taken out.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:18 PM
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Oh yes she does have stories to tell doesn't she? I just have Camino envy mainly. Keep us posted!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2016, 09:30 AM
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So I started cutting. I got the cut all the way across the bend area. There must be a million spot welds holding it in place and I can't really tell where any of them are.

When I said I didn't have access to the inside I might have lied. It's just inside the cab. For some reason I didn't think about that before.

I have found this extra piece of metal that was / is in the area I'm trying to cut out. Any of you guys know if this is original?

I'm going to guess there isn't an easy way to get this out. Just have to do a few inches at a time or something like that.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2016, 10:56 AM
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So I started cutting. I got the cut all the way across the bend area. There must be a million spot welds holding it in place and I can't really tell where any of them are.

When I said I didn't have access to the inside I might have lied. It's just inside the cab. For some reason I didn't think about that before.

I have found this extra piece of metal that was / is in the area I'm trying to cut out. Any of you guys know if this is original?

I'm going to guess there isn't an easy way to get this out. Just have to do a few inches at a time or something like that.
Disreguard that last post. At least most of it, as there are in fact one million spot welds to deal with. I am making some slow progress.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:36 AM
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Oh man... Chucky welcome to old car bodywork! I kinda thought there may be access to the backside. You're doing fine. The extra piece you found is an old repair. Grind those tack welds off the bottom edge and wherever else its welded, and get it outta there because it doesn't belong. Fortunately you are in the position to put it back right. The repair advice still stands and you can just keep going. Be safe and enjoy the project.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2016, 02:48 PM
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If you pry gently between the panels with a screw driver, the welds will be revealed. It looks better already with the rust cleaned out some to see what you are doing...
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:52 PM
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Here's where I'm at now

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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
If you pry gently between the panels with a screw driver, the welds will be revealed. It looks better already with the rust cleaned out some to see what you are doing...
I did pry with a screw driver and a small pry bar. There were a few spots that the welds were 3ish inches apart. Had a hard time just getting the pry bar in there.


Got all the junk removed. How far into the corners do I have to remove this stuff? All the way to the edge or is that last inch or so ok to leave?

The middle support took some damage during the cutting out stage, nothing some simple welding couldn't fix up. It also came free from where ever it was welded.

I still got some cleaning up to do on that lip. Also got to get it straight again as I ended up bending it a little finding and getting to all million spot welds.

I'm just happy that my $20 Skil Grinder hasn't died on me yet. This is the most I've used it since I got it a few years ago.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2016, 03:02 PM
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If the new piece goes all the way into the corners, remove the rusty junk. The right side already had bondo over a rust hole and that needs to come out or it could resurface in the future.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:22 PM
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Got the corners cleaned out for the most part. On the right side there is that brazed joint. I removed as much of it as I could with out going too deep. Do I need to grind that all out? (I'm sure I'll have a million more questions as I go on )

New pictures to show progress.



p.s. New flanging / 5mm hole punch tool just came in the mail. Yay.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:49 PM
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If you need to weld the new panel in the same location as that braze, yes, it needs to be clean. The Mig will sputter and throw molten metal everywhere when it hits that stuff.

The hole punch/flanger will be a welcome tool...
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2016, 10:31 PM
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Tight corners are a pain. Looking much better now. If the braze is on a touchy pitted area and you need to weld there, you might step down to a Dremel tool for detailed work. Putting stuff in is the easy part if you do your work now. Been a long day, I don't have anything else to add to what Mitch said. All good stuff here. Keep on!
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