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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2016, 06:37 PM
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Every couple inches would be me, on the hole spacing. First one goes nice and close to the end, 1/2 -3/4, I'd say. Equal distance to that of the depth of the punch, y'know?

These pics do look a lot better at the blue line spot. When you make your plug weld holes, then you can run screws through those and it allows a little play. Shouldn't need to use a screw at every hole but you might.

Lets see what Brian says about the pics. I think its a good time to ask how you plan to mount the glass. Forgive my not knowing but was this originally a butyl or seal mounted window? I was thinking this might be last year of rubber seal.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2016, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Every couple inches would be me, on the hole spacing. First one goes nice and close to the end, 1/2 -3/4, I'd say. Equal distance to that of the depth of the punch, y'know?

These pics do look a lot better at the blue line spot. When you make your plug weld holes, then you can run screws through those and it allows a little play. Shouldn't need to use a screw at every hole but you might.

Lets see what Brian says about the pics. I think its a good time to ask how you plan to mount the glass. Forgive my not knowing but was this originally a butyl or seal mounted window? I was thinking this might be last year of rubber seal.
Cool, project for tomorrow. I know there is also a gap along the middle of the body. I'll like to see how my patch piece will fit when panel and body match up.

As for the glass. I'm going to take it back to the glass shop that took it out. It was just easier as I didn't have any of the tools or helper to get the glass out. It was help in place with some hard rubber and pretty much just fell out when they tilted it back. I do think it was replaced at some point but it yucky. Hard cracked rubber (almost like a rubber rope) all the way around. The glass guy did say he would paint the edge of the glass black as the UV rays mess with the new glue.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2016, 07:35 PM
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As long at that fold on the blue line matches up to where it was, it looks in to me but that could just be how we are seeing it.

Brian
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:05 AM
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Well, didn't take long for me to screw up. Failed to take into account how far down the patch went when I went and punch the holes to plug weld. The bottom of the patch panel goes about the middle of the holes I just punched. I'll write this off as a rookie mistake. I'll get real good filling in holes with my MIG by the time I'm done.

That right corner still doesn't look 100% right. It is close, just looks off. I don't know if it's the way that it is cut off or what.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:24 AM
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Thanks for the chuckle, Chucky. Thats that whole measure twice thing but I bet as the day goes by you'll get a handle on things. You will sure want to practice plenty at plugging holes on a scrap of old stuff first. Just keep showing us what you've got when you run short on solutions. At this point you have a pretty good idea of how you're gonna do all this and what to watch out for. Just give yourself time to think ahead through the steps and don't jump until you're ready.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2016, 10:59 AM
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Making a patch for a patch

Sometimes having the right tools for the job helps. Ok, most of the time it does. However, because of space and budget issues I do not have all the tools that I want. This includes not having a vice. I even used a claw hammer to help get the bend I wanted. Guess at some point I should pick up set of hammer and dollies.

I think that corner looks much better with that Jr. patch in place.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2016, 11:38 AM
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That blue line still looks in! It should match perfectly with the end!

Brian

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Old 05-01-2016, 01:28 PM
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Try and try again. I think I'm making forward progress here. Mostly.

Here's my thinking on this. As it sits I got the needle nose behind the patch panel to push it up where it should be. Put a few tacks up along the outer edge of the blue line and where the body meets up. Could I then at that point just give the patch panel a slight bend forward (clamp the upper corner with needle nose) to get it to line up on the inside?

I did pop the trim back on right there to kind of get an idea of what shows up with the trim in place. I also took a picture of the drivers side this time with just screws holding the panel in place.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2016, 01:54 PM
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Find a scrap of what you cut out and compare the width of it vs the new part from blue to red line. The new one looks skinnier there. If not-

When the previous patch was jammed in, the inner flange must have been bent inward. Bending it rearward may be the answer if thats the case.

I am not sufficiently familiar with that molding setup to know if a problem exists there. I need to see the seal and molding.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:28 PM
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All I know is I can't make it clear enough, that line where the blue mark is MUST be the same as where the old one was or the moulding will be out over it looking like crap. The inner line (red) the location of the yellow square means next to nothing. The window sets on a bed of urethane so that can be bent or what ever you want to make the red line right, THAT is what is most important. Don't worry about clamping that area where the yellow square is so tight like that is the important thing, it means crap having that in there tight when we are talking about final fit of that panel.

It would be wonderful to have it nice and flush back there and all that but it's very secondary, the placement of the red line is WAY, WAY more important.

Brian
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:08 PM
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Ok, so I take it that it was originally butyl mounted and will be installed with urethane. Wasn't sure about that. I would be checking new part vs old, and looking for evidence that the inner panel's flange has been pushed forward.

Because yes both blue and red line need to match. The blue line could be bumped out a smidge with filler for the right appearance (that area will be a mud pile anyway), but the red mark is the critical one. It has to be on the same plane as the rest of the window bed. Because no filler goes where glass sticks on.
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:16 PM
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You really need about a half dozen good clamps to see if that inner will flex to meet the outer. Then screws. I'd bet the red line on the new piece will stay put and the inner panel will move to meet it. That doesn't fix the blue line but one thing at a time.
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Ok, so I take it that it was originally butyl mounted and will be installed with urethane. Wasn't sure about that. I would be checking new part vs old, and looking for evidence that the inner panel's flange has been pushed forward.

Because yes both blue and red line need to match. The blue line could be bumped out a smidge with filler for the right appearance (that area will be a mud pile anyway), but the red mark is the critical one. It has to be on the same plane as the rest of the window bed. Because no filler goes where glass sticks on.
Exactly, it could be off a bunch and it wouldn't matter. My point is you do what ever is needed with the yellow + area so the blue line is correct.

Brian
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:55 PM
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The space between the red and blue lines is 3/4" and that matches what was there before. I took measurement of that area somewhere back on page one when asked if it was a good patch panel. The lip goes from the red line up (also 3/4" matches the old), red line to blue, and blue down is being replaced.

I have looked at old pictures and as best as I can tell I am at the mark. I snapped on trim to see how it'll look. It looks right to me. from the across the bottom of the window down used to be a piece of black vinyl (to match the bed cover that was there). With that the case I don't have any good pictures of that area. Google wasn't much help on that either.

Some point down the road I'll have to put new studs in for the lower trim to clamp onto. Need to make sure I get those marked out right. However, one problem at a time.

Went back for a millionth look. With the screws holding the patch panel in place I removed all the clamps along the yellow + area. It lines up pretty good with that. Pushing that corner out from the inside of the cab does the trick.

Welder is just set up for flux core right now so I'll wait until I get some gas and wire before I even think of putting a tack.

Thank you again for taking the time on this.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2016, 04:30 PM
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That looks alright to me. Good pics!
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