1996 - L31 Vortec Rebuild - Flat tops or Dish stockers? - Page 6 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #76 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2016, 12:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Age: 25
Posts: 156
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
I started a thread similar to yours and ended up going with Keith Black KB Performance Pistons KB193-030 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing I went with the 9.5-1 static ratio in the end after much debate considering I have cast vortec heads and the best fuel locally is 91 octane.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2016, 06:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Ok guys parts are here and i'm really pumped to get this project on the road.
i appreciate all advices and posts here on this thread.

Here's what i got (Heads and cam are bought and waiting to be installed)

1 - Camshaft Bearings: 5 Bearings
SH1349S
Contents:
SH-1349 Position 1
SH-1350 Position 2,5
SH 1351 Position 3,4
they have
to be installed in the determined position.

2 - Connecting Rod Bearings "EngineTech" BB253JSTD
3 - Main Bearings "EngineTech" BC296JSTD

4 - A great piston & ring kit which includes:

Chevy 350 Flat top 2 relief
Chevy SBC 350 Flat Top Pistons Moly Rings Kit 030 355 | eBay

A - Sealed Power/Speed Pro Hypereutectic Pistons H631CP30
B - Mahle Box of Rings 40564CP.030

Pistons came with the pins and safety pins or clips, they look very nice.

Remembering that i will bore my block .30 over
the piston spec decal on the box says:

Minimum clearance: 0.0010
Skirt Size: 4.02875 +/- 0.00025 inches (What is +/- 0.00025 inches???)
Measuring Point: .0010


So this is what i will tell the machinist this week.
Piston diamteter (skirt): 4.02875+0.0010 (min clearance)
They will have to bore to 4.02975

Am i right?
I'm using the same "formula" i did when my L98 was rebuilt back in
2008 and it runs great 8 years after

Later i will have to check ring gap, the diameter says : 4.0295" (102.35mm)

Thanks!
Sammy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #78 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2016, 07:09 PM
Cars, Trucks, Boats
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Toledo, N.W.Ohio, USA
Age: 71
Posts: 6,338
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 772 Times in 726 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calderone View Post
Minimum clearance: 0.0010
Skirt Size: 4.02875 +/- 0.00025 inches (What is +/- 0.00025 inches???)
Looks good... I love 2 eyebrow flat tops... love that kit price, also... I would give the pistons to the machinist... he may want to mark them #1 - #8 and finish hone each bore precisely for a particular piston... depending on how fussy he/she is...

+/- 0.00025" means they tried to hold the sizing on each piston to no more bigger or smaller than spec size within 1/4 of 1/10,000"... but, like I said, your machinist may want to verify if they managed to do that...
.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #79 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2016, 07:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks Buzz!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #80 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 04:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Hi everyone, update time, the block is back from the machine shop
and they did a great job, we pressure washed later and we are ready
to start assembling, bearings are installed but i have a doubt about lock rings only.

Pistons are : Sealed Power/Speed Pro Hypereutectic Pistons H631CP30
We are using the stock rods, well, we have the piston groove to install them wire locks, but ...last time i bought pistons they didn't come with those locks.
i think i must use them, or should we avoid them?
Since the stock rods are pressed.
Just asking to be on the safe side.
Thank you !!!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	13081706_703278139814775_1370237299_n (1).jpg
Views:	34
Size:	23.2 KB
ID:	309753   Click image for larger version

Name:	13089940_703278166481439_2036512887_n (1).jpg
Views:	35
Size:	21.4 KB
ID:	309761  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #81 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 04:47 PM
Cars, Trucks, Boats
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Toledo, N.W.Ohio, USA
Age: 71
Posts: 6,338
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 772 Times in 726 Posts
Tight press in rods don't need the snap rings in the pistons... they just supply them in case you have the loose fit floating pin rods...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #82 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 04:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
So stock rods are non floating type, right?
I have never worked with aftermarket floating rods.
So if we use them it's overkill?
Thanks again Buzz
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #83 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 05:30 PM
Cars, Trucks, Boats
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Toledo, N.W.Ohio, USA
Age: 71
Posts: 6,338
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 772 Times in 726 Posts
Most stock rods are press in, but some high performance engines came stock with floating pins...

Using the rings with a press in rod might push the piston to one side if pin not pressed into the exact correct position...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #84 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 05:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks, we'll leave them out then.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #85 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2016, 09:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Here's the stock L31 Camshaft (Short pin)
and the Hotcam with the Long pin.

i cannot find the correct length for the L31 pin
and the stock casm is sold.

Should i cut it or press the dowel in?
Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	04.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	215.7 KB
ID:	309769  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #86 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2016, 02:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Woodstock
Posts: 1,454
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 55
Thanked 231 Times in 190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calderone View Post
Here's the stock L31 Camshaft (Short pin)
and the Hotcam with the Long pin.

i cannot find the correct length for the L31 pin
and the stock casm is sold.

Should i cut it or press the dowel in?
Thanks
From GM about the LT4 Hotcam
"For LT1 and L98 engines for MY 1995 and older, the dowel pin at the end of the cam should be pushed in so extension from the end of the cam is 0.30" + or -, the same as the production part. For 1996 LT1 and LT4 engines 1996 and newer the dowel pin is in the correct position, extending 0.620" from the end of the camshaft."



I'd just tap it in as it doesn't need to stick out so far as it doesn't drive the Optispark distributer as it is absent in the 1996-2002 L31 350 application.

On the L31 that dowel is just used to correctly align the camshaft sprocket on the end of the camshaft.

peace
Hog
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #87 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2016, 02:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
True, Thanks Hog!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:33 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chile
Posts: 480
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Long time no see, the truck is alive and running great!
We finally aborted the 411 mission since we almost got scammed by certain tuner.
We ordered a Blackbox from PCMForless and we are still running the stock pressure spider upgrade
we were recommended a 36lb spider for the tune but the stock runs fine, we removed EGR
the truck runs fine, it's way quicker and screams with the 3600 Yank when you mash it but it's
not that impressive violent, we know that we are still using the stock intake and spider so we have two options here :
1 - Get the 36lb Spider and check it out and stay there.
2 - Make a plan for a ramjet or selftune intake?
We have time now that the truck is running pretty good, we can plan and then execute.
I will record a video of the new sound and feel.
Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #89 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 01:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 12,574
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 218
Thanked 1,194 Times in 946 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
One of these even with the stock throttle body should move a lot more air and not log jam at higher rpm.

https://speedmaster79.com/pce1481002...anifold-satin/

early ls throttle body is good choice with cable throttle and larger bore gm tps.

q45 is a nice large one 95-104 iirc MM throttle body. These do the trick. both may require some mods to make work the stock tb might do the trick at first. maybe open it up a bit with a port. I would bet a few modes to the stock tb would help then upgrade when the tune is stable. If dyno tuning then do all the upgrades at once maybe even buy a big after market tb I think the 105 mm can be had in the $300 range.

X2 this is a great way to go rather than messing around with the miserable GM production injection system on the L31s.


Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #90 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2017, 02:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 4,801
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,153
Thanked 920 Times in 753 Posts
If the OP still has Vortec heads....I don't think that manifold is gonna fit? Its listed as 1957-95; not sure how it doeals with the mid 80s bolt angle change either?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Tags
l31, rebuild, sbc, vortec, yukon

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1996 L31 Vortec - Brown & Black heads? - Pics Calderone Engine 17 01-04-2016 12:16 PM
flat tops in vortec / LT4 cam + shim gaskets Fstarocka Engine 7 06-25-2015 07:57 PM
SBC 383 with 64cc Vortec heads and flat-tops cris well Engine 4 09-30-2011 01:41 PM
blown (L31) 1996 c2500 transman228 Engine 2 02-27-2011 07:10 PM
Difference Between dish and flat piston Parisienne70 Engine 3 02-15-2005 11:10 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.