'27 Tcoupe - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > General Discussion> Projects/Builds/My Ride
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
'27 Tcoupe

Well, I am building a '27 T Coupe. I bought the body about 15 years ago. I have been collecting parts for it lately, and finally started to work on it. It's going to be full fenders and running boards. and be a big tire car (pro-street).

I got a 9" rearend, which I have removed the brackets, kinda cleaned the the housing up. I'm going to shorten the housing to 41 1/2 inches.

I have a Model A axle that I was going to drop it myself, but decided to just buy one. Not a new one, but a Henry axle thats been dropped. I am going to keep the radius nar not split.

I have everything for a 4spd, but with my knee getting wrost, I am going to go with a 700r instead.

I have welded up most of the frame, and I have the body mostly fitted to it. I am working on the rear part of it, to hold the back of the body firm. I will be removing the wheel wells to tub it. which will remove the rear sub-frame which holds everything in it place. The wheel wells will be about 21" apart.

I have done alot of things to the body which doesn't show. I changed the cowl, which turned out to be a can of worms. Everyone say's a '26 is the same as a '27. Not true. It's a '26 and a improved metal '27. A improved '27 does not have wood around the windows, and the dash does not bolt to the cowl, it bolts to brackets riveted to the "A" pillars, and a bunch other things your probably not interested in.

I will post some pictures tomorrow. Heres a couplke for now,

Pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Coupe body (Small).JPG
Views:	196
Size:	52.5 KB
ID:	198137   Click image for larger version

Name:	other side of body (Small).JPG
Views:	185
Size:	54.2 KB
ID:	198145   Click image for larger version

Name:	fitting replcement cowl (Small).JPG
Views:	167
Size:	61.5 KB
ID:	198153  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2015, 09:57 AM
454 Rattler's Avatar
NEVER SATISFIED !!
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Eagle River WI.
Age: 75
Posts: 1,861
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 151
Thanked 215 Times in 185 Posts
Keep the pictures coming. This looks like another nice project. Not too many of these around here.


454 RATTLER
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2015, 03:58 PM
delawarebill's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 2,373
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 97
Thanked 229 Times in 221 Posts
oh boy a T with leg room

wonder what's that's like ??? keep the pic's coming..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2015, 11:16 AM
DERPR30's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: HARVEY LA
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
27 t coupe

Good luck with your t u might like mine
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2015, 12:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
I've been doing some more work on it. Most is fixing things so that I can do another thing. Monday I spent backing up on what I did. I had removed the rear sub-frame cross member, and then cut the corners of the side sub-frame off. So that I could build a framing to support the rear of the quarters, when I remove the wheel wells.I welded a brace across the the trunk opening and removed the rear lower panel, and bracing. I made a new rear sub-frame cross brace. When I went to fit it. it was a inch to short. I forgot to weld a brace on the bottom sub-frame sides and with all the work I did getting everything out, it had spread it's self. No problem, except who owned it before me did some real doggy body work. I removed up to 3/4" of bondo from the wheel wells, and both quarter corners. I couldn't find what was square to anything, and what actually had moved! But all is good now.

I tacked welded the rear kick up part of the frame in place, and of course my welder started to act up, and it was working great just before that. I still need to pick up some more metal to make the forward frame bracing to take any flex the rear part tries to make. And some for the tranny mount.

Pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Building the Pro street frame (Small).JPG
Views:	169
Size:	44.1 KB
ID:	198378   Click image for larger version

Name:	Copy of PB300003 (Small).JPG
Views:	161
Size:	53.7 KB
ID:	198386   Click image for larger version

Name:	welding never ends (Small).JPG
Views:	146
Size:	46.9 KB
ID:	198394   Click image for larger version

Name:	had to remove home made crappy rear panel. (Small).JPG
Views:	158
Size:	54.4 KB
ID:	198402   Click image for larger version

Name:	removed bondo that someone put on, over brazed on plate over old metal bottom. Crap work (Small).JPG
Views:	153
Size:	52.6 KB
ID:	198410  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2015, 01:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
I had picked up a Model A axle . I am keeping the wish bone, and I am going to use the Model A spindles. My brother is making me up the bushings to hold the rotors on, in the right place.

I went to a local yard and pulled the brake/clutch pedals, and the steering sector/column from a Ford F1. $50.00 and he held the truck in the air with a big front loader for me, while I pulled the parts.

I am going with drag link steering, not cross steering.

I like to make everything I can. I have never liked going and buying the parts I can make. I was a Investment mold maker for over 35 years, and have always machined anything I could. I've always had a Bridgeport, and a lathe. I can't believe I didn't bring a mill & lathe, when I move from Mn to Tn.

More later.

Pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Model A axle for coupe (Small).jpg
Views:	122
Size:	95.6 KB
ID:	198442   Click image for larger version

Name:	'50 Ford F1 brake & clutch pedals, for coupe (Small).JPG
Views:	120
Size:	56.5 KB
ID:	198450   Click image for larger version

Name:	'50 Ford F1 steering sector for coupe (Small).jpg
Views:	116
Size:	24.4 KB
ID:	198458  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2015, 09:34 PM
Cape Cod Bob's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 1,318
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 45
Thanked 61 Times in 50 Posts
Keep on it, a build I would like to do.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 06:23 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Well I was able to get some things done, while waiting for my new lower rear panel to get here. I have no heat yet, but should have a ceiling in this spring, so that I can heat it. Of coarse, I was suppose to have it in last fall! Crap happens!

I built a new rear frame support. which will hold the rear of the body & the bottom of the rear panel. I will be cutting the rear side sub-framing out, with the wheel wells. I bent up some 1" tubing into a 34" dia, to get two tubes to go around the wheel wells, to help keep the rear of the body in place. There's not much left after I cut it all out, and I don't want it to more around.

I got up in place and the rear body bolts in and everything tacked in. I will add the fish plates to the sides of the frame when I do the final welding, with the body off.

I put the cowl, header plate, and dash back on. I used electrolysis to remove the surface rust that was on it. Worked good, I did a bunch stuff. Until I was out working and a rain storm came up out of nowhere, and fried my charger while I was watching it down pouring, and then Boom, lighting, and my charger went buzzzzzzz-pop! and never worked again!
Now I'm going to use feed molasses, once it gets warmer out.

I changed my cowl, and in doing so, I had to remove the dash mounts from the donnor parts I have. I had to drill out the rivets that hold them to the old "A" pillars, and remove the ones on my car, so that I could mount the dash again. the mounts also hold the middle door hinge. Now I have to get some flathead pop rivets to mount them in. sand them flush with a dab of mud, and they will look like regular rivets. I made a little tool to center drill the rivert in the trunk, and I am drilling 9 (I think) round headed rivets on each side, that hold the rain guttters in the trunk. Henry riveted everything together! Removing rivets suck! People say to me, why don't you just drill the head off, and pop them out. Anyone that thinks rivets come out like that, have only removed pop rivets. I need to change the gutters because the ends are gone, and I have the replacement ones already.

I will have to run to town, and get my steel soon. Town is 45 miles from us. Our town has nothing!!! One stop sign. no food, no gas, no police/sheriff, nothing, just a part time post office. We have to drive 25 miles to get anything, but we like it that way.

pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PC260036 (Small).JPG
Views:	129
Size:	45.6 KB
ID:	200770   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280053 (Small).JPG
Views:	127
Size:	39.9 KB
ID:	200778   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280054 (Small).JPG
Views:	129
Size:	39.2 KB
ID:	200786   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280055 (Small).JPG
Views:	129
Size:	47.0 KB
ID:	200794   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280056 (Small).JPG
Views:	133
Size:	60.6 KB
ID:	200810  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 06:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
A couple more piictures

Pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280057 (Small).JPG
Views:	124
Size:	64.3 KB
ID:	200818   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1280059 (Small).JPG
Views:	123
Size:	44.4 KB
ID:	200826   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010002a (Small).JPG
Views:	123
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	200834   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010004a (Small).JPG
Views:	117
Size:	42.6 KB
ID:	200842   Click image for larger version

Name:	Before I removed the rear sub-framing..JPG
Views:	130
Size:	51.5 KB
ID:	200858  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 06:50 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 5,476
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 60
Thanked 645 Times in 542 Posts
front brakes

I think the wheel bearing spacer used to put 40's juice brakes on an A axle will work for the disc conversion. I haven't decided on what axle - brakes I will use when I finally get around to my A roadster.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 03:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DERPR30 View Post
Good luck with your t u might like mine


I do like your T Coupe. I had a electronic Hilborn with 15" stacks for mine, but I sold that motor, and am going with a sbc 350 in mine. I was looking at a 6x1's for mine, but a neighbor told me his friend needs money, and wants to sell his 3x2's cheap, so........I'm waiting to hear about it.

Pat

Last edited by TCoupe; 01-30-2015 at 03:18 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 03:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
I think the wheel bearing spacer used to put 40's juice brakes on an A axle will work for the disc conversion. I haven't decided on what axle - brakes I will use when I finally get around to my A roadster.

I have looked and asked around, and as far as I can find, they don't make a spacer for a "A" spindle, only for '37-'48 spindles. Which has a shoulder on it, holding the bearing out farther. The "A" spindle needs 7/16 spacer to move it out to be right for the rotor, to sit in the right place for the caliper to work. But then the seal might ride on the seam between them. So I'm just having my brother make them for me.

But Hey, Thanks for telling me. I can always use info.

Pat
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2015, 08:49 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 60
Posts: 16,159
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,328
Thanked 6,890 Times in 4,388 Posts
Very cool build, I have always liked those bodies, keep up the good work.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2015, 12:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: near Jamestown, TN
Posts: 140
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
I finally got the new rear panel. I have removed everything on the back of the body including the rear window panel. I went to fit the brace for the top of the rear panel, and it was 5/8" to short, What! I did some checking and asking around, to find out the guy that owned the car had cut the ends off, and welded them on. Why, I don't know. I have cracked them, yes they weren't welded very good. I took them off, cleaned them up and welded them back on with a 1/4 spacer on each end, and now it fits right. I need to de-rust some parts, and replace the corners before reassembling it all again. I guess I need to go and get some molasses, to do that, and the order replacement quarter corners. I just made 8 welding butt weld clamps, for the body patch panels I need to weld on. The passengers side is toast, he did some dog crap brazing on it, and it now has to go, he screwed up both sides. Idiot.

I have done some other interior body stuff also. I also removed all the hinges from the doors. Someone had done some light welding on the door by one hinge, and welded two of the screws to the body, and the slot shut. It took awhile, but I was able to get them out. You can't leave any of the screw in the hinge, because it won't slid out of the slot.

I was looking at the dash, and decided to get a different one, so that is on my to get list.

Pat
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P2070025 (Small).JPG
Views:	105
Size:	26.4 KB
ID:	203777   Click image for larger version

Name:	P2070024 (Small).JPG
Views:	102
Size:	29.3 KB
ID:	203785   Click image for larger version

Name:	P2090042 (Small).JPG
Views:	97
Size:	62.4 KB
ID:	203793   Click image for larger version

Name:	P2090043 (Small).JPG
Views:	104
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	203801   Click image for larger version

Name:	P2090045 (Small).JPG
Views:	109
Size:	33.7 KB
ID:	203809  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2015, 01:08 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Member
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
Age: 77
Posts: 16,954
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 1,915
Thanked 2,813 Times in 2,107 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DERPR30 View Post
Good luck with your t u might like mine
That's a little cutie pie.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.