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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck View Post
Without a part number its impossible to say what he has, the 4150 number he has posted is not the part number.
The first two pictures are a spreadbore and the style closely resembles a 3310 due to the transfer tube. The next two pictures are a 650 dp. Big difference. The op said he had a dp.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 12:52 PM
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Is your engine bolted to the front cross member? If it's a 57 block it has no provisions for side mount as that was introduced in 58. If you're building a 383 I'd weld in some side mounts and a rear transmission mount as well. I'd also upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder and front disc brake if it's in your budget. No matter what you do, good luck.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:09 PM
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Yes it is mounted to the front crossmember. I've checked and apparently this is a 58 block but I don't think it has the side mounts. If I upgrade to anything I will definitely have to weld in some new mounts. Also I have definite plans to upgrade the suspension and brakes and everything. Just trying to get the motor going first. Going to convert to disc brakes, tubular A-arms, Etc. Also have no transmission crossmember either. I will be adding that as well eventually.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:04 PM
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I posted a few pics 1 and 2 are vintage manifolds of the era, Holley Street Dominator which is similar to the Torker, and the Edelbrock C3 dual plane. Both are Square bore and need a square bore carb, which is what you have. To change to a spreadbore carb Holley or Quadrajet, which will be better for you, you will need a spreadbore Intake manifold which is pic 3. Pic 4 and 5 are the base throttle plates of the Holley 4150 and the 6210 which is the Q-Jet Replacement.

On the Street Avenger you picked up, technically is too big but its also Vacuum Secondaries which is going to be better for your current setup. And like the 4150 mentioned below, you can mechanically disconnect the secondaries from operation and essentially make it into a 2 barrel carb until you can get one more properly sized.

On the 4150 Carb that you have, you can disconnect the link to the secondary operating lever and essentially you now have a 2 barrel that will will make it more driveable, and shouldn't effect idle or low speed operation.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 03:42 PM
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You mentioned it falters at higher speed and it still has the old point style distributor. It could be that it is just worn out. Earlier this year I had the same trouble with a 65 Mustang with the original 289 and original distributor. This car had the same problem that you described. The cam that opened and closed the points so was excessively worn that several cylider were not firing. I replaced the old unit with a new Dura-Spark setup and problem solved.

You might have to do the same and replace your older distributor with a new HEI unit. Depending on how the manifold was cast, you might have clearance issues because the HEI is larger diameter that what you have now. You might need the smaller diameter unit as shown below. Don't let the size fool you, as it will still put out a killer spark and you will definitely feel the difference.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo316 View Post
Looks like 4777 it is.
Yes a 650 DP for sure, but I've never seen a DP with an electric choke. Someone must have added a kit. I'd sell it for $250 or more on eBay. Should work great on a very light car with a 350 and low gears.

Lots of confusion and bad info out there on Holleys. The DP, Street Avenger, and most Holleys with a secondary metering block and jets (instead of a plate with fixed orifices) are 4150-series carbs. The bigger carbs like the Dominator are in another series.

4160-series Holleys have rear metering plates. That includes the popular 1850, 80457, and 3310.

The 4175-series square bore Holleys are emission-compliant Q-jet replacements. Funny, but I used to have a 450 spread bore with mech secondaries, but it was part of the Econo-master series.

Dual fuel inlets does not mean it's a DP. DP carbs have rear accelerator pumps and mechanical secondaries instead of vacuum secondaries.

BTW, manifold vacuum does not control the vacuum secondaries. What does is inlet air flowing by an orifice generating a vacuum that pulls against the diaphragm.

I am open to correction.

Last edited by 55_327; 11-30-2017 at 04:38 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 04:20 PM
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As far as intake manifold and carburetor are concerned, the Torker II is the absolute worst manifold you could have on there. It was designed in the mid 1970's, with the SOLE criteria for design being it had to fit under the stock hood of a 70's Corvette or Camaro with their low hood lines.....didn't matter if it made more power or not, the bean counters at Edelbrock just wanted an single plane aluminum intake that LOOKED racy to sell to owners of cars with low hoods. An engineer who worked with Edelbrock back then admitted this fact a few years back on another forum.
Weiand's Accelerator and Holley's Street Dominator are also in this category.

You'll pick up power down low and up high with a good tall style Dual plane like the Edelbrock Performer RPM or Weiand Street Warrior or similar .....and then, because a dual plane has that divider in the middle, that 650 carb effectively gets divided in half as far as what each individual cylinder can see, so it works out great.
Plus, the big tall dual plane makes a great intake on your future 383 stroker plan also.

I agree with Foperfoauto, your breaking up problem at 3000+ rpm is very likely the distributor.....mechanics/racers rule of thumb is 85-90% of every problem blamed on a carb is actually an ignition problem.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 05:57 PM
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So what would you think about if I ditched the torker and got a dual-plane manifold but kept the Holley Street Avenger. It's a 670 CFM. Of course I can always downsize the Jets. Also I have an MSD streetfire distributor that I plan to throw on there. But I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to notch the firewall due to clearance issues.
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Old 11-30-2017, 06:13 PM
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Use the Avenger if you want to, but don't get rid of the 650 cfm DP. With just a change to an HP main body upgrade (ProForm, or Holley replacement, $120 or so) it becomes an 800 cfm DP. This is possible because the 650 through 800 cfm Double Pumpers share a throttle baseplate with 1-11/16" throttle blades, just the main bodies are different for the differing cfm ratings. You re-use the bowls, metering blocks, and assorted hardware, the main body comes with new bigger jets.

Be the cheapest way to get the 800+ cfm your future 383 is going to need.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 07:53 PM
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A 283" can move a car out smartly... I have a big ol' fullsize Ford Crown Vic (like the police use) with a 4.6L 280" 2 valve engine and I'm surprised how well it moves that big car... and it's stock with its stock, low RPMs mild torque cam...

The Torker intake, as it's name implies, is a low rise single plane intake that they designed to have mid RPMs torque somewhat similar to a dual plane intake...

Engine breaking up by 3,000 RPMs sounds like the mechanical spark advance mechanism is stuck and may need oiling/freeing up...

Vacuum advance cannister on distributor may have a leaking diaphragm in it...

Need to make sure cam doesn't have any wiped out lobes...

Wouldn't be surprised if your '55 ran 14's flat @ 97 - 100+ MPH in the 1/4... 250 - 350+ HP depending on cam, heads, valves, and compression ratio...

Back in the day, 283's were often bored out a whopping 1/8" to 4" bore to make a '301' (Ford/Chevy call it a 302" nowadays, Pontiac a 301", all same bore/stroke)

Last edited by BuzzLOL; 11-30-2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:11 PM
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Okay. So say I do like I said keep the carburetors put a dual-plane manifold. What Cam and lifter set do you recommend I should go with? It has the 283 to 327 heads on it with 60cc Chambers. Do you think I will have any valve clearance issues?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2017, 09:06 PM
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I wouldn't change anything... get it running/tuned good and see if you like it as is... prolly will...

Except maybe the rear end gear ratio... what is it?
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:43 PM
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I have no idea. All I know is it is a Ford 9-inch rear end. Haven't got as far as cracking that open yet to see.
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:50 PM
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Can tell the ratio by jacking up the rear wheels and counting the driveshaft turns to rotate both tires once... a 4.88:1 works well at the dragstrip, but not much fun on the street...
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntfday View Post
The first two pictures are a spreadbore and the style closely resembles a 3310 due to the transfer tube.
The 3310 750/780 CFM is dual fuel feed and no transfer tube...
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