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Old 08-11-2015, 08:02 PM
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327 Chevy Build

Looking for a good estimate as to HP/Tq to a 327 build I am currently putting together as well as a few suggestions as to parts that will work better together.


4.030 Bore
3.25 Stroke
332 CI


BOTTOM END:
Stock small journal forged crank
GM 5.7 Rods
TRW .030 over -14.6 forged aluminum pistons
2 bolt main
Stock Oil pump
Aluminum flywheel
%50 underdrive crank pulley
Lightweight 6" harmonic balancer
Static compression is just above 11:1 with .027 gaskets and .021 clearance


INTAKE:
HOLLEY STRIP DOMINATOR
HLY-300-25
Intake Style: Single plane
Basic Operating RPM Range: 4,500-7,600


HEADS:
RHS-12045
Aluminum Heads
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 72
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 220cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 74cc
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.


CAM:
Crane cams CRN-113841
RPM Range: 3,000-6,800
Duration: 238 int./248 exh.
Lift: 0.480 in./0.500 in.
LSA 114


CARB:
Edelbrock 750 cfm square bore


A few other things are an electric water pump, power steering pump removed, double roller chain, electric fans, MSD distributor and 6AL-2 box.

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Old 08-11-2015, 10:48 PM
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Those heads are awful big for such a little motor....it's probably going to be a dog below 4200-4500 rpm with such a large intake runner volume.

Is that cam a hydraulic flat tappet, solid flat tappet, hydro roller?? Not much on lift, so I'm assuming hydro flat??

You said aluminum flywheel...what trans, and what vehicle weight??

Lightweight balancer has been proven to make LESS HP than the heavy 8" balancers(testing by David Vizard).....canceling bad crank harmonics is more important than light weight in this piece.

Head size and intake manifold say upper RPM screamer, but the cam isn't going to get you there.

Right now, I'd say it will have poor low rpm power, then try to rush to high rpm power only to be cut short by the cam.......425-430 hp @6700-6800rpm.

This is a build really itching for a solid lifter cam, a special high rpm hydraulic roller cam, or a solid roller cam.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:07 PM
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My first thought was the heads weren't a great match but yes the cam is a solid lifter that will probably be upgraded for something higher duration later on and the intake is just what I have laying around so that may change as well to a weiand team g I forget the operating range but I think it tops around 7000. The transmission going in is a wc t5 with aftermarket cluster gear and clutch and curb weight is 1900 lbs. With 3.54 gears in rear.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:00 PM
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Boy am I glad you said solid lifter cam, that really helps Just seems like an really old school design with low lift and the 114 LSA. GM design factory or Off-road cam??

With your added application info, it might not be so bad...the extreme light weight of the vehicle and the deeper lower gears in the T5 certainly will help....but cam needs .100" more lift worse than it needs more duration,

Duration isn't that bad, could use another 10@ .050" but it really needs more lift to take advantage of those heads....have you thought about 1.6 or 1.65 ratio rockers?? Or even 1.7's??...both are available, Scorpion(Made in the USA) is one source for the 1.65"s and 1.7's IIRC.
They also have split ratio sets, so you could run 1.7's on the intake to get the lift up and add a little more duration at the valve, and use the 1.6's on the exhaust where lift is not nearly as important.

Not a lot of performance difference between the Strip Dom and the Team G, both run about the same rpm range.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:17 PM
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Been running short stroke small blocks for many many years and light fly wheels do not cut it !!! A heavy flywheel will put your torque to the ground much better because of the torque being stored in it and its reciprocating wght at RPM at launch and each up shift unless your building a rally car or road racer!! What use do you have planed for the car??

Eric said: " Lightweight balancer has been proven to make LESS HP than the heavy 8" balancers(testing by David Vizard).....canceling bad crank harmonics is more important than light weight in this piece." He's right the heavier Balancer also adds a little more reciprocating wght (stored) energy to apply a little more to the wheels just like the heavy flywheel!!!

You need to match the cam to the intake RPM range they are miss matched!! You can bring their ranges closer with the lash!!! You can change a solid lifter cams profile by changing the lash : Changing the valve-lash clearance effectively alters the cam's profile. For example, a cam with a listed 0.500-inch valve lift lashed at 0.020 inch hot, actually only opens the valve a total of 0.480 inch (the first 20 thousandths of movement are used to take up the slack). Tighten the lash to 0.010 inch and voila, the valve opens 0.490 inch. Conversely, loosening the lash to 0.030 inch cuts actual valve motion to 0.470 inch. Duration also increases slightly as the lash is tightened; less clearance means the valve opens earlier and closes later as the lifter gets a longer ride on the lobe.



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Last edited by painted jester; 08-12-2015 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:39 PM
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Definitely going with 1.6 ratio full roller rockers its such a light car I would like for it not to have a lot of low end torque the original engine only made 82 ft. lb brand new. Also the reason for so much lightweight material is that it I'm trying first to keep front end weight down and make this car somewhat competitive in autocross and on the strip so really I figured I might as well spend the extra money now and while I'll have it apart rather than rip it back apart later
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:34 PM
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I was going to jump in here but you already have 2 of the best guys here helping. I would use more cam and my tach would read 7500 rpm.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:38 PM
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Vinnie I plan on building a 302 just for that purpose as well as a 372 (destroked un-bored 400) gotta have spare engines not sure what ill like yet haha
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:10 PM
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If I built a 302 or better yet a 325,my peak power would be 8200
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:07 PM
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What's a 325 a 400 with a 283 crank? I don't have the money to build all these now but what opinions do you have on a 325?
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:19 PM
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325 is a 4.155 bore and 3 inch stroke,(think I would consider a 3.62 stroke) the advantage going to the better head flow because of bore. Would need heads flowing 325 cfm or better
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:01 AM
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Sounds like a fun build. Really I just have to find what amount of torque and how much displacement I'm happy with because the 400 block is so versatile for building high revving engines so if I need more I'm going 372 if not 325 with a solid roller should be fun
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:17 AM
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Not much to add on the motor; But Im a manual transmission guy by trade. When you say "aftermarket" cluster gear; do you mean that you put a Astro or G-Force "m22 style" gearset in the T5? Or that you bought a Korean made "service replacement" cluster gear for the factory gears?

The 1st one will hold up well depending on your launch technique. We support a lot of guys in SCCA's American Sedan (4" bore 5L motors, 450+hp, spec ratios and 3300LB cars) Full bore circuit racing, the T5 even with the aftermarket hi-po gearset gets tired fast. QUALITY T5 tapered bearings and rings are getting expensive, and the factory case is a pretty thin die-casting. Usually the cases will let go before the high end gears do. If you really like the T5; consider a Gforce GF5r. I prefer it to the TKO as far as shiftability and strength for competitive road racing.
If you went with a 4spd, you might consider something like a 2.56/1.90/1.48/1.00 as a good balance for drag and autoX (A-Sed has to run a 2.56/1.90/1.36/1.00 for a 4spd, or the 2.95 Z-ratio T5, or the TKO500)

Sounds like a cool project! Make sure your driveshaft is balanced for a high performance application, and you use a 'loop.

ALSO - BELLHOUSING ALIGNMENT IS CRITICAL. TIR should be .000" - .005" for your application
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:29 AM
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I was told it was a g-force cluster all I know for sure about it is that it is out of a late 80s camaro 350 carb swapped motor only making about 250 but he had broken a different one and decided to upgrade it before putting a new one in. I know its in working condition but its really just temporary until I can upgrade to a TKO or possible a jerico 4 speed if I end up hitting the track with it later in life. What are your opinions on aluminum vs. Steel driveshafts?
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:25 AM
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given the proper wall thickness; I don't have a problem with either for your application.
Some guys get in trouble with aluminum because they don't have a thick enough wall for the length.
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