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Old 03-19-2016, 04:29 PM
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350 sbc build

Hi, I need some help building my 350 sbc. I've never built an engine before so I really don't know what parts I should use. I put up a post before about this and was told to use my L2304 030 pistons but as I was cleaning them I found that they were pitted so I won't be using them anymore. I'm wondering what pistons I should buy now with a cam with Duration 292/292, Lift .501/.501 and a set of heads with a 195cc intake port 64cc exhaust port and a 2.050 intake valve. Or should I use a different cam and head combination. Any suggestions would be very helpful. This is going on a 350 sbc bored 30 over with a holley 650 carb, performer rpm intake, and long tube headers. I would like to get the most power I can out of the engine but I want it to run on 93 octane pump gas. Budget around $3,000 but can go a little higher if needed. These are the links to the cam and the heads.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-...-3/none/images

Http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=&pgGrp=search

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Old 03-19-2016, 07:26 PM
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For the first timer its hard to beat a rotating assembly kit like the one below.... Eagle are low pricesd, step up to a Scat kit if your budget allows.

Eagle Street and Strip Rotating Assemblies B13504L03068 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Those heads are great but overkill on a 350. So why not a 383... those heads certainly can support it.

I'd also use a single pattern roller cam...like the one below for a 383 may be 8 to 10 degrees more if you have other supporting mods like gears and want more RPM and a rougher idle.

COMP Cams Magnum Retrofit Cam and Lifter Kits CL12-430-8 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

With the rotating assembly, AFR heads and cam kit you will be right around your 3k budget.

What ever you get will need a proper push rod length so do some searching about setting up the push rod and rocker arm geometry. Use a standard oil pump and a bypass oil filter adapter too.

Last edited by icsamerica; 03-19-2016 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:31 PM
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100% agree with icsamerica. With the head and cam specs you have and the fact you're going to buy new pistons, just get a rotating assembly and turn it into a 383.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:56 PM
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those AFR heads can easily make over 550 hp. You need a roller cam to make decent power ( or a solid flat).those heads will take a 350 over 6800 rpm with air to spare or a 383 to 6400 rpm with air to spare.
what type of power do you want?
IE: road race,boat,drags,drift?,,,
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:24 PM
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I'm trying to get around 500 hp or more but I know that's going to take alot more than $3,000 but should I go to a 383 or not it's only a 2 bolt main and heard it's not worth it.
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:53 PM
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383's are great...The extra torque and stroke solves a lot of problems. With a stroker...You wont have to RPM the engine to make power...building a motor for RPM is more difficult and expensive because as RPM's go up everything has to support it. So ignition, fueling, gearing, balancing, accessories,belts, timing chain, pistons, crank, windage all have to be up-graded for RPM.

You can get 500HP out of a 383 with a bigger cam, something like a roller with 234 @.050 will get you close at about 5800 RPM. Some have gotten 600+ HP out of those heads. They are marvels and the pinnacle street SBC heads.

You'd have to wind up a 350 to well over 6500 RPM to produce the same power and you'd need more cam, probably a solid roller, so driveability at lower engine speed would be severely effected. Also at 6500 RPM a mechanical power steering pump and water pump become a major impediment for power, which necessitates under drive pulleys or other expensive items like an electric water pump and type 2 power steering pump. Not cheap, thus further effecting low speed engine operation and tilting the value proposition toward a 383. Not to mention you may not have enough vacuum for brakes and thus need the expense of a storage tank or electric pump.

You can also build a 383 as a torque monster, with a lesser cam, something in the 212 to 218 @ .050 area. That type of 383 would pull hard right off idle but be rpm'd out by 5500 PRM. It would have a smooth idle and still make 400+ hp with amazing throttle response and mid range torque.

Also a 383 has more stroke and the bore/stroke ratio becomes closer to square. Time has proven square engine are better, more power, broader power band and better fuel economy relatively speaking. If you look at most modern engines that are considered good they are usually square or near square.

Last edited by icsamerica; 03-20-2016 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28 Camaro View Post
I'm trying to get around 500 hp or more but I know that's going to take alot more than $3,000 but should I go to a 383 or not it's only a 2 bolt main and heard it's not worth it.
2 bolt main would be fine. If you're looking for 500HP then I would suggest arp head studs and main journal studs.
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:05 PM
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this statement is non sense;
You can get 500HP out of a 383 with a bigger cam, something like a roller with 234 @.050 will get you close at about 5800 RPM.

You'd have to wind up a 350 to well over 6500 RPM to produce the same power and you'd need more cam, probably a solid roller, so driveability at lower engine speed would be severely effected.


I already stated above the rpm range difference(400) between 355 and 383.
At the same rpm the 355 would make about 35 less hp,but the 383 would need a slightly bigger cam to rev the same rpm as the 355
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:30 AM
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Okay so I think I will go with the 383 but what do I need exactly? I saw a few kits but not sure what kit to get, what brand should I use and your saying that the cam 234 @ .050 with those AFR heads would be a good combo in the 383?
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:43 PM
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Mine is a 2 pc seal
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:43 PM
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ignore vinniekq2...he disagrees with everything I say no matter what.

As Stated...AFR headed 350 with cam in the 240's makes... 522HP @ 6600 RPM.
520 HP 350 ci 195 cc

As stated...AFR headed 383 with cam in the 230's make 516 HP @ 5700 RPM
http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...t1shootout.php

Do yourself a favor...get a set of AFR's...you wont regret it. They are track tested and proven. You'll be in good company and they will have resale value some day when you no longer need them. The very knowledgeable AFR tech line is just a phone call away too. Dont underestimate the value of that.

As previously stated...Scat make a good rotating kit, their tech line is also just a phone call away. Eagle is OK too. I've actually used both but I prefer Scat. All these low buck cranks are sourced "Off Shore" anyway...it's just the machine work that is done local. No matter what you get it's has to be checked and assembled carefully. That's all part of the fun anyway.

If you have a 2 piece block there a good number of rotating kits readily available. As a first timer...I'd avoid the 6 inch rod. The longer rod on the 383 puts the pin into the ring package and complicates assembly a bit. A 5.7 rod is fine for your goals. Pistons for 5.7 rods tend to have more piston skirt and that's helpful on a novice build because it will reduce piston rock so the rings seal is better even if your bores are not perfectly sized to the piston as they should be.

I prefer summit...I had one dealing with "white performance" and they were not able to deliver what I ordered after 10 weeks. Said they had it in stock and they did not. I dont do 2nd chances, so never again no matter the price.

Do yourself another favor and get a book...yes an actual book, about how to rebuild a SBC...read it cover to cover twice while you wait for your parts to arrive. You'll be surprised how much you dont know. I like the classics by...Vizard, Lingenfelter and Baechtel. IT will be the most important 25$ you spend.

Last edited by icsamerica; 03-21-2016 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:16 PM
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on that 2nd link...hit cancel, check the 1st dyno graph at the bottom.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
AFR are about 2-2500 bucks the ones he sells flow good and cost under 700. That's a big price difference in the heads.
AFR Eliminators 195 with CNC'd ports and runners are $1597.00 shipped.

195's are perfect for a mid-range to mild 383, they've been pushed to 600 HP

The Amount of misinformation on these forms that could be easily fact checked in 30 seconds is astonishing sometimes.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
I would steer away from eagle kits lots of problems.
X 2... A search for "broken Eagle cast stroker crankshafts" will turn up more stories than you want to read... they may replace the crank under warranty... they definitely won't guarantee the 2nd crank when it breaks, though... their forged cranks seem to be OK...
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icsamerica View Post
AFR Eliminators 195 with CNC'd ports and runners are $1597.00 shipped.

195's are perfect for a mid-range to mild 383, they've been pushed to 600 HP

The Amount of misinformation on these forms that could be easily fact checked in 30 seconds is astonishing sometimes.
Might add Dart Pro 1s as a second option,
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