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Old 12-03-2017, 02:54 PM
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38 coupe trunk lid alignment

I'm in to the sheet metal stage of this build and I have replacement EMS panels for the trunk tail pan and floor extension, however before I start fitting them in place I figured I would install the trunk lid and see how it lines up and it doesn't .
It's tight on the left side center section and have a gap on the top and bottom, and on the right side it's the opposite, tight on top and bottom and wide gap in the middle ?? I've tried adjusting the hinges but unable to get correct gap.
Not sure what to do from here , do I need to un weld the supports in the trunk and try to line things up that way ? Previous owner has done some brazing repairs on both inner fenders, left side was the worse as it needs to be rebuilt .
I included some pics, maybe someone can point me in the right direction as to what I need to do next here, Thank You
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:37 PM
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Looks to me like all leftovers from that thump on the left rear. The left side looks like it might mostly fall into place once the fender has a true repair. The lid may have been replaced after the left rear hit, but the one on it in the wreck may have bonked the right quarter. I would want a flexible metal yardstick to lay along the fender edges, to help see where the line deviates. I would also want to tape measure horizontally across the trunk lid opening in a few spots and also in an x from corner to corner, to help establish that the body is still square back there.

The right side looks fine from here, but if the middle needs to come inward, you'll need to clamp and pull it somehow. Pulling from somewhere sturdy near the floor on the left side. Or configure some type of leverage to accomplish that. Also be aware that in my professional opinion, you can rely on the filler stage to really uniform the appearance of the gap as long as you are within 1/8" or so but stay away from building up the sides to close the gap. Those are relatively large panels so perfection would be tough to chase down. But if you concentrate on getting the metal on the left side back where it belongs, I believe thats a start.
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:43 PM
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Oh and also... just in case... you might measure from floor to trunk hinge mounts to check for a difference. Because if the body has some twist, it could produce this problem. But the lid height looks good at the front from here. Really can't see much in the inner fender pics.
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:50 PM
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One more... If you want to just try beating the tight spot on the left side out a little... I would lay a piece of 2x4 wood along the inside edge of the quarter jamb and try a few swats with a big dead blow hammer. It would give you some idea how sturdy the area is or isn't, and of the force required to correct it. But that fender is mashed and obviously needs work first to relax the steel.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:16 PM
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Have you found a replacement fender yet ? That would also give a good visual for how much the mounting flange has been moved from the hit. I think it's going to reveal exactly what IDJ said, that the body has been pushed forward and in from the impact. You can get at some of the dent from the inside to TAP out, gently, while alternating with the 2x4 from the inside to attain a straight line for the lip to follow.
The inner pic is blurry and I can't tell if the fender mounting flange is still on the body, or if that was removed when the old fender was welded on...
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:24 PM
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You need to post larger pictures in focus so we can really see what is happening there. But that damage on the right side of the lid sure looks like it could have distorted the lid pushing it over.

Brian
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:09 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys, I do have a replacement fender and good idea, didn't think of using it to see where mounting flange sits. I believe lid is original since same dark green color on the inside as rest of car. I think I will start by getting the rear quarters and maybe the lid as well to bare metal and see if there's signs of previous damages or filler in those areas.
I've got to get myself a flexible yardstick as well if I can found one, I can see that being handy in other areas of the build.
I'll take some more closer pics and post them, thanks again .
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:14 PM
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Closer and further pictures so we can get a real good idea, hopefully large photos that we can see well.

Brian
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:29 PM
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might not be square. As suggested x it out. Hit that jamb with a nice 20lb sledge with a 2x4 clamped in the jamb while the bottom is clamped in the jamb pulling that in. The striker and or latch should be out. You shouldn't even be concerned with that now but if it's on get a real good look at it as it's about to latch. Might have to pull back some rubber to see. That left is your concern, or at least from these pics. The middle on the right side should go pretty easy with a clamp and pull. This is all very common with those old cars. every time I have worked on them doing the gaps is no cake walk. Those a pillars lean like no other, like 55s.
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