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Old 04-10-2016, 10:42 PM
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388 Truck update

Finally getting the engine back together. Slow process with the age and condition of my body, but it's getting there. Pics are showing the short block and some of the build. Short block has lightened crank, KB9914-.060 pistons. Zero deck.

Pics kinda suck cuz I only had my phone with me.
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:17 PM
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I know you've posted previously about this motor, but how about a run down on what's in it? I'm interested in how those Eddy heads work out. What the RPM range you're aiming for? I'd guess over 6500 (stud girdles present.)
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
I know you've posted previously about this motor, but how about a run down on what's in it? I'm interested in how those Eddy heads work out.
I've had the heads on for 4k miles already. I tore it down because 4 cyl were leaking and the intake gaskets were toast. While I'm at it I had a custom cam ground, heads and intake resurfaced and added stud girdles.
What I found when I tore it down is that it has a lightened crank, KB9914-060 pistons at zero deck. The can going in is a hydro roller of 245 @ .050, .600" lift and 112 LSA. Using Felpro permatorque .039 gaskets for an .039 quench. Compression comes to about 11.24 and at my altitude the DCR is around 8.01.

Now2, with the old cam, leaky heads and scabby intake gaskets I ran 478LB/FT torque and 380 HP at the wheels on a chassis dyno. The old cam was 234 @ .050 with .539 lift on a 112 LSA. I'm hoping for some really nice numbers when this is done. Also have a brand new extremely massaged QFT Street Q going on.

And I really do like the E-tec heads. They wind out nicely and haven't run out of lungs yet. Plus, according to the website, they flow nearly 260 cfm @ .600 lift.

Last edited by Greg T; 04-10-2016 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T View Post
I've had the heads on for 4k miles already. I tore it down because 4 cyl were leaking and the intake gaskets were toast. While I'm at it I had a custom cam ground, heads and intake resurfaced and added stud girdles.
What I found when I tore it down is that it has a lightened crank, KB9914-060 pistons at zero deck. The can going in is a hydro roller of 245 @ .050, .600" lift and 112 LSA. Using Felpro permatorque .039 gaskets for an .039 quench. Compression comes to about 11.24 and at my altitude the DCR is around 7.97.

Now2, with the old cam, leaky heads and scabby intake gaskets I ran 478LF/FT torque and 380 HP at the wheels on a chassis dyno. The old cam was 234 @ .050 with .539 lift on a 112 LSA. I'm hoping for some really nice numbers when this is done. Also have a brand new extremely massaged QFT Street Q going on.

And I really do like the E-tec heads. They wind out nicely and haven't run out of lungs yet. Plus, according to the website, they flow nearly 260 cfm @ .600 lift.
That's alot of compression for pump gas, but that's alot a cam. Who ground it? What are the events (did you check it/degree it?) I'm interested in how much timing it will take along with the timing events.
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:47 PM
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wide LSA and moderate duration,,, almost in solid lifter territory,,,
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:17 AM
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Nailhead,
I did degree the cam and it's dead nuts on. Comp Cams did the trick. It's my own design as the tech was a bit reluctant to work with me on what I was thinking. But, I wanted to take full advantage of the capabilities of the heads. I stayed just at .600" lift because more than that would have required a spring change and more than likely solid lifters. Didn't want to go there. I designed the cam to favor the intake by using a reverse split of 245 I and 243 E ground on 108 lobe center and 112 LSA. I used a wider LSA to boost the vacuum a bit and give me a little broader torque curve for the street. My DCR comes in at 8.01 so I should be good for pump gas, although I will mix a bit of avgas with it. I will use the same timing I've used in the past. I have a E-curve from MSD and I choose 15 swing, initial at 20 + 10 vac on full manifold vac. So I will have 30 at idle and 35 total all in by 3k.

Vinnie, hcompton,
Using an RPM AirGap with an extremely massaged QFT Street Q 750 carb that is actually flowing 870 cfm with downleg boosters and all billet metering blocks with a high flow main body. There's a guy in lower Michigan who computer designs and calibrates based on your total package, I/e vehicle weight, gearing, tires, trans, converter, and all engine specs. This will be my third carb from him. they've all been dead nuts on and he charges the exact same as you can buy out of the box at Summit or Jegs. Charges nothing for the labor and gives lifetime service for any recal you may need. Truck is going to be 99.9% street with one or two weekends a year at the strip for test and tune nights.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:01 PM
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Revised + QUESTION..

Got the motor together and this thing hauls. Runs great, makes excellent power and the throttle response is what I would call wicked. BUT!!!! I need help.

I used all new head studs instead of using bolts, sealed them all with professional grade pipe dope, torqued everything to the precise specs, and rechecked everything. My son and I built this as carefully as a surgeon would operate. I am extremely disappointed to say that I have 4 head studs leaking coolant. Now, this goes against everything I've ever been taught, everything I've ever done, and against every fiber of my being that I have to ask............What is the best sealer for head bolts to dump into the radiator. I know, I know!!!!! Not the right way to do things, but my body cannot take another tear down, and I am afraid to pull only two back head studs from each bank because I don't want to warp a head. My body is just too beat up these days to handle another tear down, so I need to add whatever the best sealer is for head bolts. Any opinions?

Last edited by Greg T; 04-15-2016 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:56 PM
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GM put bars leak in most everything.....
dave
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
I have had good luck with aluma-seal. Its sealed lots of big leaks on the road and got me home from some bad holes. One from a mechanic that jacked my tbird up by the rad and broke a hole the size of my pinky But bottle of alumaseal and lots of water it suddenly sealed and held water forgot about it until the mechanic and called and said he has the new rad. like three weeks later.

Its good stuff bars leak works too. But the best thing is to seal the bolts them self. If you could pull the studs and screw them out one at a time then you should be able to seal them with proper thread sealer and replace. Some new studs also come presealed and if you pull the studs and replace with these it will solve your issue without pulling the heads. Just one bolt at a time retorque then on to the next one. Or jsut pull them put some thread sealer on them and reinstall. But they may be damaged if the dont have allen heads or another way to remove the bolts. Some times two nuts twisted together can loosen the studs but if they are really tight all bets are off. But the ones leaking may be the ones that are loose.

Try the alumaseal first. Keep in mind you need to run it for some time for it to get hot enough to seal just a few minutes may seal it up but they wont stay unless you run it for a while.

Hope this helps.

I don't recall ever trying Aluma Seal, but I have used bars leaks before. I see now Bars Leaks offers liquid copper and liquid aluminum along with their regular product. Would one of those be better, do you think?

I know it's better to pull them, but two of them are under header tubes so the headers would have to be pulled as well. I just can't do any more as it's going to take me a month to recover from what I did already, even tho I had my son there to do most of the heavy grunt work.
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Old 04-15-2016, 09:13 PM
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I had bars leaks in there for three years before i decided to tear it down. It actually fixed a hydrolock problem until i had a chance to fix it. I'll look around. We have seven parts stores and a super wal mart so im sure i can find the good stuff. Much appreciated. Im anxious to get some dyno numbers.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:05 PM
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I'm going to second hcompton's recommendation of the aluma-seal. I used it years ago to seal a pin hole in a radiator that leaked a steady stream when under pressure. I was in a jam, and needed to get back to base. Worked like a charm. Pulled the rad the next weekend to get it fixed, and the shop could not make it leak again to find the hole. I put the rad back in, put another tube of the sealer in (I had flushed the system when I pulled the rad) and forgot about it. Never another minutes trouble from the cooling system on that car.

Dave
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Old 04-16-2016, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
I'm going to second hcompton's recommendation of the aluma-seal. I used it years ago to seal a pin hole in a radiator that leaked a steady stream when under pressure. I was in a jam, and needed to get back to base. Worked like a charm. Pulled the rad the next weekend to get it fixed, and the shop could not make it leak again to find the hole. I put the rad back in, put another tube of the sealer in (I had flushed the system when I pulled the rad) and forgot about it. Never another minutes trouble from the cooling system on that car.

Dave

I've read many good things about alumaseal, and it's been around for years which says something right there. I only question about it being effective on bolt threads. That's why I was asking about the Bars Leaks Liquid Aluminum. Was wondering if it's the same, but just suspended in a liquid, or if it is something different. And now I see AlumaSeal comes in liquid or powder. So, any opinions on which?
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:07 AM
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Greg,
First off, great to hear that it's running strong and sticking together.

Regrading the leaky head studs, I don't believe in pouring any type of gunk into any orifice of a motor, including the cooling system. This solution seems to generate a couple of other problems.

I've always used 592 loctite - liquid teflon - for coolant, air and oil. But I'd guess there is something better. There was a thread recently that discussed the same issue. I believe Eric, Bogie or someone (?) had a sound prescription for leaking head studs. Hopefully one of the will pipe in. No fear though, you shouldn't have to disassemble other than the rockers to access the studs.
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
Greg,
First off, great to hear that it's running strong and sticking together.

Regrading the leaky head studs, I don't believe in pouring any type of gunk into any orifice of a motor, including the cooling system. This solution seems to generate a couple of other problems.

I've always used 592 loctite - liquid teflon - for coolant, air and oil. But I'd guess there is something better. There was a thread recently that discussed the same issue. I believe Eric, Bogie or someone (?) had a sound prescription for leaking head studs. Hopefully one of the will pipe in. No fear though, you shouldn't have to disassemble other than the rockers to access the studs.

Thanx, Nailhead. I share your thoughts on using goop to bandaid a problem, but at this point I have no choice. I've had back injuries and surgery, which trigger fibromyalgia. So, even tho my son did most of the heavy bullwork, I am still in a state of total exhaustion from this build. Yes, we should have removed the motor and did it on a stand but you about hindsight! What pisses me off is that I did use the good grade Teflon pipe dope on every stud, cleaned the holes with a chaser and then shot brake cleaner and compressed air into them. I also cleaned all the oil from the studs, wire brushed them and sprayed them before applying the dope. This is a total disappointment. My heart just sank when I saw the drips, and what's worse is that the ones under the valve covers could be leaking as well. I just don't have it in me to tear this all down again, when I have girdles installed, and then have to re-adjust all the valves again. Can't do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
I would get the liquid used the powder and it seems to take a lot longer to work its way thru the motor. If the problem was at the top of the rad then the powder would be good but the liquid if what i would use here. Just remember to shake it well and get it mixed up before you poor it in. It settles to the bottom of the bottle and all the good stuff get trapped in the bottle and the goo poors out so give it a good shaking.

Be sure to get some water out of the rad first so you can avoid getting any on the cap area and drain hose. Then run it until it gets hot a blast down the road is also a good idea if that is possible. Not sure if this had plates or hauled to the track. If its got plates some time on the road should help it seal up a lot better. It takes about 20 minutes of running to work its way around and seal up.

Hope this helps. I know how hard it can be to pull the headers if you font got a lift.
Yeah, this is a street machine fully registered so no problem there. Also have an electric water pump so I plan on circulating while I'm pouring. Once it's all in there I'll run it til it's warm and then drive it home. It's at my son's house, about 12 miles away so it should get a good mix on the way home. Thanx much for the assistance. I would think Advance Auto or Wally World should have the stuff.
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Old 04-18-2016, 02:20 PM
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Original Gaskets

This is the reason I tore the thing down in the first place. Look at the leaks in these gaskets.
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