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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by advanced design
Tyman00

I ran into someone at the Nationals that had built his truck with the S-10 chassis using a steering gear rack and pinion and was very happy with it.
would love to know how he did that...



tyman00 here's a few sites to look at for a S-10 frame swap

http://chevytrucks.org/tech/s10_frame_swap.htm
http://www.mongosgarage.com/S47/progress.htm
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1 (<~~~ WARNING if you do decide to join this site PLEASE read thier RULES first & do an intro, cause if ya dont sometimes it aint pretty)
http://www.commerce.usask.ca/staff/h...frameswap.html


and here's my baby, Large Marge on a stretched S-10 frame

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by advanced design



Isn't the oil pan sump on the 460 Ford in the front? If so you might want to keep that in mind for crossmember clearance.

You are correct, but I believe Moroso makes a sump the other way. If not Moroso I know someone does.


Thank You everyone for your help. After reading countless threads and all of your input here I feel more confident getting a start on this project
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 11:53 AM
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TooMany2count,

Love that Large Marge!

Anyway the guy that is doing the rack on the S-10 is Paul Breeze Breeze's Odd Rods & Customs Evansville, IN. 812-424-7444. Just called him and he approved sharing his number.
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Old 01-07-2005, 01:23 PM
 
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TooMany2count, I hadn't seen your project before, it looks pretty cool!

The '52 Suburban/S-10 page above is mine. I just wanted to chime in about the steering box and the rad support. The original rad support actually helps align the grill and fenders so you need to do something up there to make it work with whatever swap you go with.

I realized my solution was pretty skimmed over on my page (here) so I'll go into some more detail, I hope this helps or at least jump-starts some more creative ideas. And by no means is this the best or only way to solve this issue, it's just the approach I took.

I used the top half of the original '52 support and built the bottom out of 1x1 square tubing and angle iron just to box the support in - you don't want the weight of the fenders supported by the rad itself.

Once the bottom part was built, I figured out how much of a tilt I needed between the top and bottom halves to clear the steering box while still lining up with the rad support mount to the front fenders and welded 'er up. Next, I mounted the completely boxed rad support frame to the fenders, installed the grill and aligned the body work. I built the frame-to-rad brackets and welded/bolted them in to support my alignment.

The lower splash shield under the rad needed to be modified but the rest of the Suburban body is untouched from this modification.

Or, even easier... When you take the original rad in to the rad shop for a modern core, just have them build it shorter. Mount the shorter rad so it clears the steering box on the bottom and you're set. I would think that a modern 4-core rad could cool a smallblock as well as the original rad cooled the stovebolt.

TooMany, I'm curious about the 350 engine mounts and firewall clearance... I read that you used the JTR mounts, I have used them before. I thought thought of mixing and matching the "ears" before welding them up, and that would move the drivetrain back enough.

You seem to have a lot of side-to-side clearance in the front wheel wells. What's the backspacing on the front wheels you're using?

Last edited by Stinkin_V8; 01-07-2005 at 01:23 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 02:26 PM
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Stinkin_V8,

Glad you weighed in on this issue as I was thinking of your project Suburban through the thread. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 02:49 PM
 
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Well, I hope it helps. I don't want to say any one way is right, but one more idea in the pot won't hurt.

All the work I did on the rad support was only because I wanted to keep the S-10 steering box which is in the way. If I had known another box would have solved the problem, I might have thought about doing that. Actually, if I hadn't already had the rad done, I likely would have just made it shorter.

I realize this is one of the many small hurdles in a project like this. I hummed and hawed over it for quite a while before I decided to go one way or the other. Maybe this will save someone an afternoon of brain work and free up some time for some real wrenching!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stinkin_V8
TooMany2count, I hadn't seen your project before, it looks pretty cool!
TooMany, I'm curious about the 350 engine mounts and firewall clearance... I read that you used the JTR mounts, I have used them before. I thought thought of mixing and matching the "ears" before welding them up, and that would move the drivetrain back enough.

You seem to have a lot of side-to-side clearance in the front wheel wells. What's the backspacing on the front wheels you're using?
here's a little history on it, as always time changes things & many things have change on Marge since i started. http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/weimer_joe_1948_01.htm the 9inch has been remove because of tire clearance problems, may use a S10 blazer 4x4 one but havent decided yet.
just like the 350 it was traded to my son for a 425/400 caddy combo. the mounts are stock 78 caddy mounts w/a modified mtr mount bracket so the mtr mount would set lowwer into the cradle of the S-10 frame. the motor looks like it may be off set but its not. the body is off to one side on jack stands.



here's some pic's, havent updated anything in awhile because of health reason & helping the son w/his V8 S-10 http://community.webshots.com/album/96130608XbgRLz
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2005, 09:18 PM
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Thanks for sharing the webshots of Large Marge. I remember looking at a truck like this for sale near St. Louis back in the mid - late 90's. Don't come across too many of the 1 ton's. Good luck with the project.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2005, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
I remember looking at a truck like this for sale near St. Louis back in the mid - late 90's.
could of been this one since i did have it for sale for a while b4 i decide to go ahead & build it.



Quote:
You seem to have a lot of side-to-side clearance in the front wheel wells. What's the backspacing on the front wheels you're using?
they were just some 15x7 vette style rims. i will be running 8 inch rims along w/doing a tall spindle swap so i can get larger rotors on it. http://www.angelfire.com/tx/lonestar...allspindle.htm & the wheels will stick out farther then what you see..joe
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:23 AM
 
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Those 1-tons are huge! The first truck I looked at was a 1-ton panel with Air Canada badging on the side. It was monstous.

TooMany - if/when you swap to the S-10 axle, maybe this will help. The 1st gen S-10 4x4 rear axle is wider than the 2WD (I think you knew that already). I used the 4x4 rear end (use an '89+, they got beefier internals around then) but I could not use the stock S-10 wheels. The S-10 4x4 used a 6" backspacing on the wheels which is pretty deep anyway. I switched out to a 4" backspaced wheel and I think a 1/2" spacer plate in there would make me happier with it. IIRC, the 2WD S-10 used 4" backspacing on the wheels if you need some junkers to roll it around the shop. 4x4 rear, 2x4 wheels will give you the right width.

I wish I could use that brake upgrade, but I'm running 4WD. I've been keeping my eye out for something I can use but I'd need a FWD vehicle with some monster brakes.

Looking forward to seeing your progress, Large Marge is gonna be one cool cruiser!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2005, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
I wish I could use that brake upgrade, but I'm running 4WD.

try looking at the 2000+ 4x4 s10 trucks or blazers. if they are anything like the 2wd you maybe be able to still do an upgrade. my understanding is this, on those 2wd trucks they use a seperate bracket to hold the caliper on like they do on M2 spindle. you maybe able to use the 2000+ spindels assmbly & put larger rotors on it...something to thing about. & IF the rotor is seperate from the hub assembly you may be able to do like some of the 6 & 8 lug guys do on the AD trucks & up. where they use the hub assebly on the truck & then use a 4x4 rotor on it & then you may have to fab up a new caliper bracket. ,,,,joe
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Old 01-10-2005, 07:01 PM
 
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Thanks for the tip.

I'd heard that the newer models' rear calipers were two-piston job and were a bolt-on. Haven't looked into it, though. The front calipers are the ones I'd really like to upgrade, though.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2005, 07:58 PM
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From what I understand it is 98+ blazers you want to look at. The p/u's didn't get the brake upgrade. The blazers have 11" (up from 10.5") front rotors w/ 2 piston aluminum floating calipers and the rear has non-vented rotors, single piston aluminum calipers, and a drum e-brake. I can't remember the diameter of the rear rotors.

Also with something that heavy I don't think the 7.5" axle would be to happy with you. In some s10/blazers (VERY FEW) they used an 8.5" 10-bolt. I got one out of a 2000 blazer. Search for my other posts for more info on it....Personally I would want something more like the 33 spline 9.5" 10-bolts they put in the 454SS trucks or a Dana60.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2006, 09:43 AM
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Just thought I would update. I actually sold the truck I originally bought. I got offered double what I payed for it .

I used that cash to buy me two cheaper trucks. 51 5 window GMC and 49 3 window Chevy. I am in the process of swapping out the two front clips. The clip off of the chevy is in much nicer shape. Hardly any dents in the fenders and hood, and the grill only has one bent bar. (Oh the 51 GMC has a GMC cab but at one point in time had the chevy front clip put on it )

The 5 window cab needs some work. Sheet metal mainly. A few small dents, but the usual. Floor pans, cab corners, I guess the normal for these.

I struck a deal with a local wrecking yard and I can get ahold of a s-10 rolling chasis with brake booster, steering wheel and any misc engine brackets that I want for $200 (but no engine, I am going to go with a 350 swap right away).

The trucks I bought unfortunately do not have the normal pickup boxes. The one has a flat bed, the other has a grain box. But that is fine. I will swap the cab and front clip to the s-10 and run with that for a while. Then once I get that finished I have already spoken with a guy at a local machine shop that I know pretty well about having some sheet metal rolled into the shape of a style-side bed that has the same contours of the cab. Since the rear axle is a little wider I will use stock fenders on it still so it will still slightly have that step-side look to it.

He has a 49 chevy that he is working on and liked the idea so much that he said he will give me a deal on the labor it takes to get things right as long as he can use mine as a prototype. Sounds good to me cheap labor.

Sorry the post got so long. I am getting excited about this.
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