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Old 02-20-2019, 08:51 AM
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'48 Lincoln street rod resurrection

Took delivery of this '48 Lincoln cabriolet a few days back (I posted some questions previously on the suspension board). The car has been the victim of long term inactivity (15 years and only 300 miles driven). Drivetrain (SBC 350/THM 350) was supposedly rebuilt at time of build. Problems on delivery: wouldn't idle well, backfired when starting and idling, battery had to be charged nightly, very bouncy ride.

Rolled it into the garage and started working- replaced old heater hoses , fuel lines and filter. Took the battery to Wal Mart and they handed me a new one without a receipt (!). Found the cause of run down battery was electric choke connected directly to it. Hooked it up for key on only.

Re: the backfiring- once battery was changed and one spark plug wire relocated, it stopped. Adjusted fast idle and air screws and got it idling better (previous owner installed a "Thumpr cam" so a super smooth idle isn't possible).

Front end: See the "Mustang II suspension issues" thread in the suspension section. Long story short, coil over springs are too weak for the car and extremely compressed. Ride height is very low and the car looks great but rides like a buckboard. Investigating ways to get a smoother ride by putting stronger springs on that do not compress as much.

Car has a '92 Caddy interior that needs some sprucing up. Will be going through getting all the electric accessories working and generally getting the car ready for local cruise ins.
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:31 AM
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That one nice looking car. Personally I would love to own a 48 Chrysler Town and Country with a 392 Hemi in it.
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:00 AM
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Update: The bouncy ride was because the tires were out of round from setting so long. Rides fine now and handles like it's on rails. Tires are so old I will be replacing soon.

Replaced the old digital oil and temp gauges with new one, but still have erratic readings (zero oil pressure for no reason, temps to 250 when you can put your hand on the radiator). Both are accurate about 70% of the time. Bad ground maybe?

Spent a week getting the gas gauge functional and it is now fairly accurate. Worked on the power brakes a lot. Had a shop replace the under floor master/booster and installed a set of Wilwood discs on the front myself. Stops a lot better but left rear wheel locks well before any others. Tried to work on it but found one of those special mag wheel anti theft lug nuts installed, have to order the socket on Ebay just to get the wheel off. Plan to replace the return springs and see if that helps. Funny thing is, the '83 El Camino I traded for this had the exact same problem on the exact same wheel!

The car is a 20 footer at best, but the paint job is actually pretty slick, just has fine scratches all over. Tried a product called TriNova with an orbital buffer and it did help, but you can still see a lot of them. Going by a detailer today to see what he can do for it. Taking it to a large show this weekend and want the old girl to look her best.
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:38 AM
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If you do decide that you need more front spring, Eaton Detroit Spring has many different rates for the MII system.
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:41 PM
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M II springs

Years ago when I was an Engineer at Ford I helped one of the guys with his Mini Stock Pinto road racer. The factory had about a Dozen stock springs for Pinto and M II and I pulled all the specs, spring size , free length, ride height with various options etc.,I wish I had made another copy to keep in my file.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:45 AM
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Cool street rod.
What brand are the coil overs ? Most have a lot of choices for weight variations that all work with the same shock. If the springs are very compressed, you may still benefit from a pair of heavier springs and still maintain the same ride height but gain more travel for rough surfaces.

Intermittent electrical gauge readings could well be a loose/poor ground from engine to chassis and body.
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:53 AM
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to me the main thing is to get the car operational in all respects and then work on the cosmetics.. Cosmetics can be a winter project as well as any improvements needed to be done at that time..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainstreetprod View Post
Bad ground maybe?
The first thing a fellow should do when he gets a new project is to run new grounds. It takes only two braided strands of ground cable to tie the motor to the body, body to the frame and frame to the motor. Grind all the paint off a place on the motor where there is a convenient threaded hole. Bolt one end of one of the cables there. Use RTV to completely cover the connection so that no air can get to it, over, under or around. Run the other end of that cable to the frame, grind down to bare metal and repeat. One end of the second cable will bolt at this location also, so that you will have two cable ends there. Run the other end of the second cable to the firewall. There will undoubtedly be a hole in the firewall somewhere close that perhaps is plugged with a rubber plug or just has a bolt and nut in it that you can remove. If not, choose a place on the firewall where you want to terminate the cable. Look on the passenger side of the firewall and make sure that you will not be drilling into a heater or AC core or other component that you want to keep operating. Drill your hole and grind all the paint off around the hole, down to bare metal, so that you can get a good connection to your cable end. Use a bolt and nut to secure the cable end and smother both sides of the connection with RTV to prevent oxidation. You won't believe how much better all your electrical components work after doing this.

Any automotive parts supply store will have many different styles and lengths of ground cables......
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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