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Old 04-25-2019, 12:46 PM
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4L80E controller or exhaust first?

Sounds crazy but I think Im in a catch 22 and not sure of which to do first. I have a 4L80E in my 70 Monte, big block just under 700hp. So I need to still have the controller for the trans hooked up at a shop, and exhaust from the headers back done at an exhaust shopt. I dont want to tow it to an exhaust shop first because I dont want them to mistakingly (or not) try to drive the car without the controller hooked up and the car shifting, but I cant very well take it to get the controller installed with no exhaust on it. How will they drive it to test it? Should I try to throw some temp pipes and mufflers on it then get the controller installed first? Just wondering what you all would do. Thanks!

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Old 04-25-2019, 02:32 PM
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Forget your local crush bend exhaust shop and get one of the 2.5" or 3.0" mandrel bent pipe kits from Summit or Jegs in their house brand lines and do the exhaust yourself....you get a better choice in mufflers too, pick anything you want.
Kit for '68-72 Chevelle fits your Monte Carlo, both cars use the exact same frame. (if you didn't already know, they also use the exact same trunk lid, trunk to window steel panel, rear glass, and rear window trim.)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...model/chevelle
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30524/10002/-1
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/3055...791+4294829484

The Jeg's 2.5" I linked in stainless because it is such a good price, you can get it in aluminized steel for just $180

I've used two of these so far, '67 Chevelle 3" and '72 Nova 2.5" and the fit is excellent.

Mandrel bent tube flows far better than the crush bent crap any local muffler shop can do(2.25" mandrel bent will outflow 2.5" crush bent), so if your local guy isn't doing mandrel bending I wouldn't even consider it.

Why would the exhaust shop need to drive the car, other than on and off the lift?? If you are worried about that, just make it known to them the trans will only go into low gear...and tape that note on the steering wheel and shifter too.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Forget your local crush bend exhaust shop and get one of the 2.5" or 3.0" mandrel bent pipe kits from Summit or Jegs in their house brand lines and do the exhaust yourself....you get a better choice in mufflers too, pick anything you want.
Kit for '68-72 Chevelle fits your Monte Carlo, both cars use the exact same frame. (if you didn't already know, they also use the exact same trunk lid, trunk to window steel panel, rear glass, and rear window trim.)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...model/chevelle
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30524/10002/-1
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/3055...791+4294829484

The Jeg's 2.5" I linked in stainless because it is such a good price, you can get it in aluminized steel for just $180

I've used two of these so far, '67 Chevelle 3" and '72 Nova 2.5" and the fit is excellent.

Mandrel bent tube flows far better than the crush bent crap any local muffler shop can do(2.25" mandrel bent will outflow 2.5" crush bent), so if your local guy isn't doing mandrel bending I wouldn't even consider it.

Why would the exhaust shop need to drive the car, other than on and off the lift?? If you are worried about that, just make it known to them the trans will only go into low gear...and tape that note on the steering wheel and shifter too.
Thank you for the info. Im hesitant to doing the exhaust myself because the heads arent stock, Dart, and I think they sit a little higher maybe than factory, therefor the headers would be sitting a little different than the exhaust kit is expecting? if that makes sense. Plus I have the 4L80E, a different crossmember to accommodate the trans, (crossmembers.com), and Im not sure how the exhaust kit would be effected by those un-factory parts. Hell, Id love to do what youre saying if I knew I wouldnt run into issues.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:49 PM
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The front pipes in the kit are easily adjustable, as they are 2 pieces slip fit and extra long to be trim-able to most any application, and would be no problem for the header height difference due to the 1" or so taller exhaust port location on the heads...but you're right, I have no idea about how it would fit around the 4L80 crossmember situation without being there to see it....you wouldn't happen to have pics of the crossmember and how far back it was moved from TH-400 location??
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
The front pipes in the kit are easily adjustable, as they are 2 pieces slip fit and extra long to be trim-able to most any application, and would be no problem for the header height difference due to the 1" or so taller exhaust port location on the heads...but you're right, I have no idea about how it would fit around the 4L80 crossmember situation without being there to see it....you wouldn't happen to have pics of the crossmember and how far back it was moved from TH-400 location??
Im going in my garage when I get home in like an hour or so. I'll take some pics of underneath. Do you have an email addr I can send to? You can message it to me if youd like. Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:01 PM
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Which part number crossmember do you have??
I'm looking at their site, shows the 200-4R, TH-400 Short tail(stock) and 4L80 all using the same crossmember - #RCAE-4

If that is the case, the exhaust kit should be no problem as their crossmembers have more clearance for pipe than a stock crossmember does, by a bunch.
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:33 PM
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I have built over 12 exhaust systems from the summit kit (summit gets stuff to my door around 2 days). I always go with the 2.5" kit and have several spare parts. A single 2.5 will flow most street engines while dual 2.5" will be enough for most high hp engines.

The 45's in the kit really come in handy for jogging exhaust around things without welding.
You can also cut the 180's in half to jog stuff over that way if you want to weld them together.

If you need to get in between a tight section they make 2.5" round to 2.5 oval that goes back to round. But those are expensive.
I have always just placed the section of pipe in a vise with wood on the sides then hit it with a torch heating it up evenly while tightening it. If your careful and slow this works to reduce the height of a 2.5" round to around 1.5". If your not careful you will split the pipe.

I always buy the aluminized kits, fit, weld them, then paint them black with some vht header paint. No need for any clamps but if you don't want to weld them then you can use a couple clamps and do the thing in a afternoon.

Speedway also sells this cheap x pipe section with some 45's and a X which is just listed as steel so just shoot it with some vht header paint.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Unive...SABEgLlp_D_BwE

Once the thing is up and running with everything fitted you can decide if you want to install stainless or just buy another $200 aluminized kit in 5 years.


I don't go to muffler shops, oil change places, or anywhere that tries to charge me shipping anymore. Do it yourself and know it is done right. If you feel it is beyond your skill level or you just don't have the proper tools ask around. If I did not have a welder I would use clamps or rent or buy a cheap one(along with a mask).

Nothing is really beyond your skill level. It just takes practice to get better at things. If you absolutely don't want to do it yourself ask around in your local (68-72 GM A-body) forum/club good chance someone with years of experience will help you for a little change.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:05 PM
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You have to do both, so run it with open headers and get the controller first so it is functional.

What controllers are you looking at?
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Old 04-29-2019, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
I have built over 12 exhaust systems from the summit kit (summit gets stuff to my door around 2 days). I always go with the 2.5" kit and have several spare parts. A single 2.5 will flow most street engines while dual 2.5" will be enough for most high hp engines.

The 45's in the kit really come in handy for jogging exhaust around things without welding.
You can also cut the 180's in half to jog stuff over that way if you want to weld them together.

If you need to get in between a tight section they make 2.5" round to 2.5 oval that goes back to round. But those are expensive.
I have always just placed the section of pipe in a vise with wood on the sides then hit it with a torch heating it up evenly while tightening it. If your careful and slow this works to reduce the height of a 2.5" round to around 1.5". If your not careful you will split the pipe.

I always buy the aluminized kits, fit, weld them, then paint them black with some vht header paint. No need for any clamps but if you don't want to weld them then you can use a couple clamps and do the thing in a afternoon.

Speedway also sells this cheap x pipe section with some 45's and a X which is just listed as steel so just shoot it with some vht header paint.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Unive...SABEgLlp_D_BwE

Once the thing is up and running with everything fitted you can decide if you want to install stainless or just buy another $200 aluminized kit in 5 years.


I don't go to muffler shops, oil change places, or anywhere that tries to charge me shipping anymore. Do it yourself and know it is done right. If you feel it is beyond your skill level or you just don't have the proper tools ask around. If I did not have a welder I would use clamps or rent or buy a cheap one(along with a mask).

Nothing is really beyond your skill level. It just takes practice to get better at things. If you absolutely don't want to do it yourself ask around in your local (68-72 GM A-body) forum/club good chance someone with years of experience will help you for a little change.
Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-29-2019, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
You have to do both, so run it with open headers and get the controller first so it is functional.

What controllers are you looking at?
Im looking at the TCI setup (for the 4L80E).
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