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-   -   53 Belair conv rust repair (https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/53-belair-conv-rust-repair-233635.html)

John long 06-27-2013 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123pugsy (Post 1689101)
Looking good John. :thumbup:

I missed this thread but I'm on board now.

Thanks Pugs. That means a lot coming from you. :)

mr4speed 06-27-2013 09:03 PM

Got to say there are'nt a lot of guys out there that would tackle something li ke that, then to actually stick with it and see it through now that takes a lot of stamina. Most would become overwhelmed and just plain quit. But not you, you just keep right on course, well my hats off to you for the skill, talent, workmanship and drive. Congrats and keep up the good work!!

John long 06-27-2013 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr4speed (Post 1689232)
Got to say there are'nt a lot of guys out there that would tackle something li ke that, then to actually stick with it and see it through now that takes a lot of stamina. Most would become overwhelmed and just plain quit. But not you, you just keep right on course, well my hats off to you for the skill, talent, workmanship and drive. Congrats and keep up the good work!!

Thanks 4speed. I try to choose a particular goal to accomplish. Many guys will multi-task and work on several different areas of their build but if I do the job becomes overwhelming. I focus on one goal. (right now floor pans) By focusing on that one area only I see progress and get the satisfaction that goes along with accomplishing that. I find the time in the shop to be relaxing and rewarding.

John

MARTINSR 06-28-2013 12:28 AM

I just love that John is re-creating the pieces instead of replacing it with tubing or something. I am diggin this!

Brian

deadbodyman 06-28-2013 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1689275)
I just love that John is re-creating the pieces instead of replacing it with tubing or something. I am diggin this!

Brian

exactly what I was thinking...:thumbup:

John long 06-28-2013 08:38 PM

Thanks guys.

Today I moved on to removing the number 2 and 3 braces. Since I am trying to roughly replicate the origional pieces I am trying to remove the middle section pretty much intact so I can use it as a pattern. I have drilled out about 2/3 of the spot welds.

Here is the area where the seat brace was. I am amazed how good it is. This may be the only piece of the floor pan assembly I can reuse. :thumbup:

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psea8a3f6c.jpghttp://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34fcca62.jpghttp://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9113bed0.jpg

Each of these braces is made in 3 pieces. That may make them easier to duplicate. I hope so.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70bc0482.jpg

It has been difficult to find the spot welds in this rusty metal but I am about 2/3 of the way through. Tomorrow is another day. :thumbup:

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psb951e012.jpg

John

MARTINSR 06-28-2013 08:40 PM

Oh yeah baby, this is coming along so damn cool! The thought of removing a spot welded on panel is so easy, yet so often guys will rip them apart with air chisels and what not. Simply "un-bolt" the spot weld! Un-bolt all the spot welds and the part comes right off!

Brian

NEW INTERIORS 06-28-2013 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John long (Post 1689536)
Thanks guys.

Today I moved on to removing the number 2 and 3 braces. Since I am trying to roughly replicate the origional pieces I am trying to remove the middle section pretty much intact so I can use it as a pattern. I have drilled out about 2/3 of the spot welds.

Here is the area where the seat brace was. I am amazed how good it is. This may be the only piece of the floor pan assembly I can reuse. :thumbup:

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psea8a3f6c.jpghttp://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34fcca62.jpghttp://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9113bed0.jpg

Each of these braces is made in 3 pieces. That may make them easier to duplicate. I hope so.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70bc0482.jpg

It has been difficult to find the spot welds in this rusty metal but I am about 2/3 of the way through. Tomorrow is another day. :thumbup:

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psb951e012.jpg

John

Just a little trick,,, If you know about where the spot welds are,, Pass a little sand paper over them and sometimes they will pop out so you can see them better..;)

John long 06-28-2013 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS (Post 1689542)
Just a little trick,,, If you know about where the spot welds are,, Pass a little sand paper over them and sometimes they will pop out so you can see them better..;)

Yes, that really does help. Thanks for posting that. You can see where I have tried. Unfortunately some of the rusty pits are about the same size of spot welds. :mad:

I am getting there.

John

NEW INTERIORS 06-28-2013 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John long (Post 1689550)
Yes, that really does help. Thanks for posting that. You can see where I have tried. Unfortunately some of the rusty pits are about the same size of spot welds. :mad:

I am getting there.

John

Yes.. Most of the time It does work ,, But sometimes when you don't have any metal at all,, It won't work...:D:thumbup:

MARTINSR 06-28-2013 09:58 PM

A roloc surface conditioning disc is the cat's meow for spotting the spot welds.

Brian

John long 06-28-2013 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1689559)
A roloc surface conditioning disc is the cat's meow for spotting the spot welds.

Brian

LOL. 2 inch 36 grit Roloc discs and some 40 grit long board paper is exactly what I used. As a matter of interest I ordered some 3m green 3 inch 50 grit Rolocs yesterday. They should be here Monday. The problem is this metal is just so pitted it is hard to pick out the depressions of the spot welds. Not impossible, just difficult to see some of them.

John

MARTINSR 06-28-2013 11:35 PM

Surface conditioning discs are kick but for that, they don't remove the metal (or very little of it) but only the crap that is stuck to it.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....141801-P-2.jpg

I was blown away when I did a vintage Harley frame years ago and I remove the brass that was dripping out of the seams on the frame without touching the metal at all! Think what a mess it would have been to do that with a grinding disc. These things are like magic. It still may give you the same problem with the pits and not being able to tell exactly where the spot weld is, but then again, it may be just what the doctor ordered. It works very well on California rust. :D

Brian

boothboy 06-28-2013 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1689580)
Surface conditioning discs are kick but for that, they don't remove the metal (or very little of it) but only the crap that is stuck to it.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....141801-P-2.jpg

I was blown away when I did a vintage Harley frame years ago and I remove the brass that was dripping out of the seams on the frame without touching the metal at all! Think what a mess it would have been to do that with a grinding disc. These things are like magic. It still may give you the same problem with the pits and not being able to tell exactly where the spot weld is, but then again, it may be just what the doctor ordered. It works very well on California rust. :D

Brian

We don't have rust in California. We have " Heavy Metal Discoloration"
If we had rust rest assured the EPA would be there Johnny-on-the-spot issuing citations and the HazMet people would be right behind them.

BB :nono::nono:

John long 06-29-2013 08:39 PM

Managed to get the rest of the spot welds drilled and have uncovered the 2 braces under the seat. Now to get the rusty bolts out and do a little fabrication.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psbcf5be18.jpghttp://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a091c5a.jpg


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