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  #2281 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I was un aware of the Master Coat probably just as good,the qt of POR 15 here are 49,00 or a gallon for $110, I bought a gallon,used it on my frame then sealed it back ,then when I started to do my floor pan I had to CUT the top off the container the lid would not come off,it was SEALED by the paint,,i bought another 1 gallon can and put remaining in it But I put thin plastic sheeting over the can Before replacing the lid ,now it will come off
Good idea. I understand they are both moisture cured products and if allowed to be exposed the air for very long will go bad pretty quickly. There is a warning to wear gloves and NOT TO GET IT ON YOU. You will have to wear it off. Also warning to pour what you can use into another container and immediately re-seal the can.

I have a little touch up welding to do and will be ready to try it in 2-3 days.

John

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  #2282 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
That is exactly what I am going to do David. I have a quart of the MasterCoat encapsulator which Pats55 sent me and this will be a good time to try it. I believe the POR 15 and the MasterCoat are very similar products from different manufacturers. I did price the POR 15 the other day and it was 49 dollars for a quart. I am not suggesting it is not as good as the MasterCoat but I do have the MasterCoat and I owe it to Pat to use it after he was good enough to send it to me.

As I said earlier, I hope I am glad I did this 5 years from now.

John
POR15 is designed to go over metal that is rusty, and not only seals it, but converts the rust. I know several people who used it over metal that they got very clean, and it peeled in big sheets because the metal didn't have the rust to adhere well. If your metal is pretty clean, I'd suggest using a good paint, and not POR15.
Any of these air cured products need to be in a container that has very little air space when stored. So if you have a qt. left in a gallon can, it's better to get a quart size container, or the air space in a gallon can will cause the product to gradually set up.
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  #2283 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
POR15 is designed to go over metal that is rusty, and not only seals it, but converts the rust. I know several people who used it over metal that they got very clean, and it peeled in big sheets because the metal didn't have the rust to adhere well. If your metal is pretty clean, I'd suggest using a good paint, and not POR15.
Any of these air cured products need to be in a container that has very little air space when stored. So if you have a qt. left in a gallon can, it's better to get a quart size container, or the air space in a gallon can will cause the product to gradually set up.
Be careful with using the term rust convertor as only a very thin surface of the rust can be converted. The majority of the rust remains below the surface of the converted rust as the convertor just can't penetrate that deep.

For inside a floor board, especially your rough pitted floors, it should stick nicely especially if there are bits of rust left behind.
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  #2284 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Be careful with using the term rust convertor as only a very thin surface of the rust can be converted. The majority of the rust remains below the surface of the converted rust as the convertor just can't penetrate that deep.

For inside a floor board, especially your rough pitted floors, it should stick nicely especially if there are bits of rust left behind.
Yes, POR15 can't convert or contain extreme rust conditions. Nor can it stop rust that's underneath it. But it is not designed to go over clean, new metal, and doesn't adhere well to it. I've got numerous pictures of it peeling off frames, and firewalls that were nice a smooth. As the name indicates, POR=paint over rust.
"POR-15 is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be top coated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Top coating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight."
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  #2285 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 03:26 PM
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I just cleaned my Old metal with 40 grit for tooth it worked fine ,,I didn't have any sale or dirt ,
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  #2286 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Be careful with using the term rust convertor as only a very thin surface of the rust can be converted. The majority of the rust remains below the surface of the converted rust as the convertor just can't penetrate that deep.

For inside a floor board, especially your rough pitted floors, it should stick nicely especially if there are bits of rust left behind.
I appreciate everyones input. Had the bottoms of the panels not been as good as they are I would have replaced them. I finished the welding and grinding on the inside today but still have to clean the bottom side and grind some welds. It will still be a couple of days before anything gets painted.

John
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  #2287 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
I appreciate everyones input. Had the bottoms of the panels not been as good as they are I would have replaced them. I finished the welding and grinding on the inside today but still have to clean the bottom side and grind some welds. It will still be a couple of days before anything gets painted.

John
John, get yourself a syringe, fill it with epoxy (you'll love it) and squirt the crap out of those laps before you epoxy .

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-17-2015 at 06:37 PM.
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  #2288 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2015, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
John, get yourself a syringe, fill it with epoxy (you'll love it) and squirt the crap out of those laps before you epoxy .
I am going to do that to the whole floor pan Mike. Kelley said he bought them on Ebay and I have already done some price shopping for them. Actually, they are pretty inexpensive.

Thanks for the input.

John
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  #2289 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 02:18 PM
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I spent a couple of hours removing the undercoating from the bottom of the toe boards today. As you can see they look pretty good from the bottom but I did uncover a few pinholes in the front hump area.



I made a patch and started to cut out the hump to install it and thought. "What in the crap am I doing? I can keep patching at these toe boards and hump and end up with the same junk I started with or I can cut them out and do what I should have done from the beginning."



So here goes about 10 days down the drain. When I get back to the basement we will start making the new toe boards and front trans hump like we should have done to start with.......My bad

John
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  #2290 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 03:14 PM
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Maybe you should wait to see if you need to modify the hump/firewall for the big block and bellhousing before making a new one. Hate to see you do it 3 times...
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  #2291 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I spent a couple of hours removing the undercoating from the bottom of the toe boards today. As you can see they look pretty good from the bottom but I did uncover a few pinholes in the front hump area.



I made a patch and started to cut out the hump to install it and thought. "What in the crap am I doing? I can keep patching at these toe boards and hump and end up with the same junk I started with or I can cut them out and do what I should have done from the beginning."



So here goes about 10 days down the drain. When I get back to the basement we will start making the new toe boards and front trans hump like we should have done to start with.......My bad

John
It's hard to see sometimes, it's often easier to make the whole thing than to patch. Don't beat yourself up, with as many hours as you have in that car looking for an easier way is what we all would be doing.

Brian
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  #2292 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:38 PM
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Maybe you should wait to see if you need to modify the hump/firewall for the big block and bellhousing before making a new one. Hate to see you do it 3 times...
You have a good point but I hate looking at this mess. I am willing to chance having to modify it down the road. LOL, You have my permission to say "I told you so." if it comes to that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
It's hard to see sometimes, it's often easier to make the whole thing than to patch. Don't beat yourself up, with as many hours as you have in that car looking for an easier way is what we all would be doing.

Brian
Thanks. The sad thing is replacing it to start with would have been easier as well as better. Why would I have tried so hard to save something that was destined to look like crap even if it did "work."

Sometimes I am too stubborn for my own good.

John
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  #2293 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:39 PM
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I gota question for ya John. Have you had that dash out yet ? I cant remember.
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  #2294 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:52 PM
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I gota question for ya John. Have you had that dash out yet ? I cant remember.
No. On the Chevy, the dash board is welded in. It can be cut out but I see no reason to do it. It is in amzingly good shape.

John
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  #2295 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:05 PM
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You have a good point but I hate looking at this mess. I am willing to chance having to modify it down the road. LOL, You have my permission to say "I told you so." if it comes to that.



Thanks. The sad thing is replacing it to start with would have been easier as well as better. Why would I have tried so hard to save something that was destined to look like crap even if it did "work."

Sometimes I am too stubborn for my own good.

John
I'm with you John! I go both ways on these decisions sometimes. Either start one way, and then change my mind. Or go full speed ahead, and then modify it later if the plan requires a change. My biggest problem is I can't just sit still and not do something, regardless if I might have to redo it later.
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