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-   -   53 Belair conv rust repair (https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/53-belair-conv-rust-repair-233635.html)

John long 08-02-2013 11:06 PM

Today I finally got back to the basement and was able to finish the driver's side cowl mount. Next I need to finish the toe board, floor board, A pillar mount assembly like I did the passenger side and build the inner rocker.

It is good to be back to work on the old girl.

John

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc1de899.jpg

I narrowed the mount to make room for the V8 engine. I am going to run a bolt through the frame rail. You can see I have provided a hole in the new mount for it.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e2bd770.jpg

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps49218bed.jpg

69 widetrack 08-03-2013 09:04 AM

John, you are a true craftsman, it is truly amazing the work you do...I remember your post when you mentioned to Kelly from "Carolinacustoms" that you wouldn't want a shop to pay you by the hour, they couldn't afford it...or something to that effect. Well, let me tell you, I would sooner pay more to get things done the way you do it than pay less and have something that looks like it doesn't belong there. Thank God, the owners of the 2 vehicles I'm working on now agree

If you say your not fast, I can appreciate that, I'm not the quickest either...if your anything like myself, you spend as much time, or more thinking it through as you do making the piece. Maybe we should get Randy to give us lessons on how to pick up our speed, the guy is fast and in talking to him, I know he does a lot of thinking as well...LOL. I'd sign up.

Great build John, I'm not always posting but I'm always watching...with eyes wide open.

Ray

John long 08-03-2013 09:23 AM

Thanks a lot Ray. A friend told me a few days ago I could use his rotiserie. That is exciting because this thing will sure have to come off the frame.

It is a real motivator to work on the car knowing there are a few guys who are really interested and watching.

So far I have spent 75 dollars for metal, 24 dollars for Argon and about 40 dollars for bolts and abrasives. That makes it pretty cheap recreation. That does not include my plasma cutter though. Tools don't count do they? :mwink:

John

John long 08-03-2013 02:23 PM

Made the bottom of the drivers toe board today. I only need about 1 1/4 inches above the crease. When I trim it to install It I will be able to do the final tweaking.

I hope someone is interested in how this piece was done.

First the flange has to be gently formed. Since it is a curved flange it can be done with a tipping die in a bead roller or with a flat anvil in an English Wheel as I did. Since this is a floor board you could get away using pliers and/or a vice and just take your time but it would not come out as nice.

Any time you tip a flange on a curve it will distort the metal so you must shrink or stretch the flange to keep the piece straight.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03f85721.jpg

Once you have the flange worked into a 90 degree brake you will have to use a vice to form the backward bend. There is no way this piece is going ti fit in a straight brake.

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps72eae0c4.jpg

Here is a view that clearly shows the purpose for this offset. It matches the curve of the body mount so the floor board will fit tightly and curve down and around the body mount at the A pillar.

I believe these pieces will fit nicely.

John

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51dab1a5.jpg

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7fb7e8e.jpg

69 widetrack 08-03-2013 03:18 PM

[QUOTE=John long;1701223]Made the bottom of the drivers toe board today. I only need about 1 1/4 inches above the crease. When I trim it to install It I will be able to do the final tweaking.

I hope someone is interested in how this piece was done.

First the flange has to be gently formed. Since it is a curved flange it can be done with a tipping die in a bead roller or with a flat anvil in an English Wheel as I did. Since this is a floor board you could get away using pliers and/or a vice and just take your time but it would not come out as nice.

Any time you tip a flange on a curve it will distort the metal so you must shrink or stretch the flange to keep the piece straight.

Once you have the flange worked into a 90 degree brake you will have to use a vice to form the backward bend. There is no way this piece is going ti fit in a straight brake.

Here is a view that clearly shows the purpose for this offset. It matches the curve of the body mount so the floor board will fit tightly and curve down and around the body mount at the A pillar.

I believe these pieces will fit nicely.

John

As I mentioned John, there is a lot of thought that needs to go into making parts/pieces for a job such as this. Knowing how metal reacts when using different pieces of equipment is also key.

I always learn things when I read your posts and see what the parts look like when your done.

I Thank You for that.

Ray

John long 08-03-2013 04:09 PM

[quote=69 widetrack;1701235]
Quote:

Originally Posted by John long (Post 1701223)
Made the bottom of the drivers toe board today. I only need about 1 1/4 inches above the crease. When I trim it to install It I will be able to do the final tweaking.

I hope someone is interested in how this piece was done.

First the flange has to be gently formed. Since it is a curved flange it can be done with a tipping die in a bead roller or with a flat anvil in an English Wheel as I did. Since this is a floor board you could get away using pliers and/or a vice and just take your time but it would not come out as nice.

Any time you tip a flange on a curve it will distort the metal so you must shrink or stretch the flange to keep the piece straight.

Once you have the flange worked into a 90 degree brake you will have to use a vice to form the backward bend. There is no way this piece is going ti fit in a straight brake.

Here is a view that clearly shows the purpose for this offset. It matches the curve of the body mount so the floor board will fit tightly and curve down and around the body mount at the A pillar.

I believe these pieces will fit nicely.

John

As I mentioned John, there is a lot of thought that needs to go into making parts/pieces for a job such as this. Knowing how metal reacts when using different pieces of equipment is also key.

I always learn things when I read your posts and see what the parts look like when your done.

I Thank You for that.

Ray

You can be sure I follow your posts more than you follow mine Ray. The advise you offer the guys with painting issues is always "right on" and I admire the time and effort you put into the help you give.

This sight is hard to beat for someone who really wants to expand their knowledge on any front of the automobile hobby.

John

69 widetrack 08-03-2013 05:33 PM

Thanks John, that means a lot to me coming from you.

All the best
Ray

Too Many Projects 08-03-2013 08:54 PM

Cost of tools is NEVER included in the cost of restoration. In fact, it can be easily justified and written off; if you had paid a shop to do the work, you would be looking at 25-30k. The cost of the plasma is minuscule compared to that...:cool: Heck, with that example to show your wife, you've got many thousands more to use on parts and tools...:D

You just keep doing what you're doing and I'll keep watching and learning. I REALLY need a pair of stretchers...:drool:

MARTINSR 08-04-2013 12:02 AM

This is REALLY one of the very best threads ever on Hotrodders. Showing how you make these pieces is really educational. :thumbup:

Brian

69 widetrack 08-04-2013 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1701370)
This is REALLY one of the very best threads ever on Hotrodders. Showing how you make these pieces is really educational. :thumbup:

Brian

This really is a great thread Brian. As I said before, I may not be posting a lot, but I'm still following very closely. There's all kind of tips that I've picked up from John and this build and here's a lot to be said for a person like John that takes the time to explain in vivid yet humble detail.

John mentioned earlier how great a site this is, this thread and the person that started it are examples why.

Ray

BarryK 08-04-2013 06:17 AM

John, not been on here much as I have 1000 of hours trying to change MSDS sheets to the new required GHS format due by Jan 1.
Over the years I have seen the best metal fabricators in the world at the annual "Metal Meet" but none of them have anything on you, I agree as posted this is one of the best threads on here and you make it look so simple, I almost think I could do it but then I come to my senses.

GREAT job
Barry

Lizer 08-04-2013 08:44 AM

this is all amazing work. John is entirely too humble, almost to the point of selling himself short. Some of you may remember my thread quite a while ago with the horribly puckered quarter skin butt weld going down the entire quarter on my car. I had good intentions that were executed poorly and it was in a bad state. I talked with John quite a bit on that one and he helped me form the plan and gave me the motivation and encouragement that I could get it corrected, and I'll be damned if I didn't get it fixed. He's kind of like the kind old grandpa who you wish was your neighbor, though he'd never get his own projects done because he'd always be over helping you with yours.

Lizer 08-04-2013 08:50 AM

John have you seen Eastwood's new little bench top English wheel?

English Wheel - How To Make a Fender Flare & Techniques - Eastwood - YouTube

John long 08-04-2013 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lizer (Post 1701431)
John have you seen Eastwood's new little bench top English wheel?

English Wheel - How To Make a Fender Flare & Techniques - Eastwood - YouTube

Kindly Old Grandpa?......:) Josh, as with most things from Eastwood, the quality looks like it would work but the price is not a bargain. The wheel at 500 dollars is high when you realize it only comes with one lower anvil wheel. The other 4 you need come as a set and are 139 dollars. Now you have almost 650 dollars in a machine that is still a hobbyist quality. I think you would enjoy having one but would shop around to see where you could get the most value for you buck.

In the video the fellow says it will shrink metal. Not true. That is the problem with most metal working equipment. It stretches but doesn't shrink. The problem is who has 10,000 dollars for a power hammer that will shrink.

John

Lizer 08-04-2013 02:00 PM

OK then! I'm just going to go back into my little mouse hole now :D

I don't think the world needs to see anything I'd attempt with an English wheel. However, I will say my MIG welder from Eastwood was $299, comparable on every level to similar Lincoln and Miller 110V welders...same warranty, it does have infinitely adjustable controls. THAT was a really great buy for me, it's been such a great piece of equipment. Most of Eastwood's stuff...no thanks. I kid you not, it's the SAME stuff Harbor Freight sells, but at 3 times the price. Compare their welder carts, for instance.

You know, 60's is the new 50's though. 60's sounds older to me, but my father in law is 65...he doesn't seem that old to me at all. So now I just have to think of John like my father in law and that means you're not quite at kindly old Grandpa just yet....sorry to disappoint ;)


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