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  #4216 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2018, 08:37 AM
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You can tell you are doing good work when yout fabrication looks better than the factory.

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  #4217 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2018, 07:08 PM
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The sandblasted spring brackets found their way onto the car today. There is still grinding to be done but they worked out pretty well after modifying them to fit my frabricated body mounts.

John



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  #4218 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2018, 08:25 PM
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One other thing I did today was take a series of pictures while I welded up the split in the rocker where I corrected the missmatch in the width of the EMS rocker and quarter panel patches.

This was just a good oportunity to show the method of welding a patch by stacking the spot welds. This is also an easier method when you have a really wide gap to fill.

Would it have been better to cut this out and put in a patch with closer gaps? Probably, but I didn't. I did not want to screw up the paint on the back side of the inner rocker so I just "had at it". The split is also in a spot that I can get to inside the quarter to seal it.

Here is the cut that needed to be fixed.



I started by making tacks every inch or so. It takes a little practice to tack accross a large gap but the EMS is a fairly heavy gauge and I could put my little Mig on it's third hottest setting and just hit it for a half second building the "bridge" with about 4 quick zaps.

Once I had the bridge tacks in, I just built onto each of them slowly. I would zap 3-4 places and the go grind on my spring brackets for a few minutes and let the welds cool.

45 minutes later I was to this point.



The thing I like about doing it this way is when you finish and tie each group of welds together you only have 6-7 welds trying to pull the panel instead of 40 of them. If you keep skipping around you end up with 40 tacks and 40 gaps. (How poetic)

My repair may not the kind you go around bragging about but it is a good solid repair that will give service. I thought maybe some of the less experienced guys who check in with this thread might like to see the process and hear why I do my but welds this way.

John

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  #4219 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2018, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
One other thing I did today was take a series of pictures while I welded up the split in the rocker where I corrected the missmatch in the width of the EMS rocker and quarter panel patches.

This was just a good oportunity to show the method of welding a patch by stacking the spot welds. This is also an easier method when you have a really wide gap to fill.


I started by making tacks every inch or so. It takes a little practice to tack accross a large gap but the EMS is a fairly heavy gauge and I could put my little Mig on it's third hottest setting and just hit it for a half second building the "bridge" with about 4 quick zaps.

Once I had the bridge tacks in, I just built onto each of them slowly. I would zap 3-4 places and the go grind on my spring brackets for a few minutes and let the welds cool.


The thing I like about doing it this way is when you finish and tie each group of welds together you only have 6-7 welds trying to pull the panel instead of 40 of them. If you keep skipping around you end up with 40 tacks and 40 gaps. (How poetic)

My repair may not the kind you go around bragging about but it is a good solid repair that will give service. I thought maybe some of the less experienced guys who check in with this thread might like to see the process and hear why I do my but welds this way.
No planishing on this one, or just relying on metal thickness & low heat build-up to keep things straight?
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  #4220 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2018, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
No planishing on this one, or just relying on metal thickness & low heat build-up to keep things straight?
Exactly. The welding had almost no longitudinal effect but if you look very closely, you can see it did pull the panel in just 1/16" or so. As long as I have no high spots, I can live with just a tad of filler. Since the weld is so close to both of the right angles there is little issue with distortion.

Anytime you weld though some shrinkage is to be expected. The secret is learning what it is going to do an how or how much you need to control it.

John
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:15 AM
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John,
I just stumbled on a post where you bought a TIG a while back. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/53-b...ml#post3444618
Still using it, or do you prefer the MIG?
Any advice for using TIG on body work?
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  #4222 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2018, 08:30 AM
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Dan, the TIG is a great way to weld sheet metal , but......... It really demands very clean metal or your tungsten will not last any time. It also needs an excellent fit up. Gaps can be welded but you will end up generating so much heat, it will defeat the purpose of using the TIG in the first place. Also, since it requires both hands and a good deal of coordination you have to be able to get in a comfortable position where you can also see what you are doing well. Lastly, it is very time consuming.

I can stumble along with the TIG but I have not become an expert by any means. I am so used to the MIG, I just automatically reach for it.

John
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  #4223 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2018, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Dan, the TIG is a great way to weld sheet metal , but......... It really demands very clean metal or your tungsten will not last any time. It also needs an excellent fit up. Gaps can be welded but you will end up generating so much heat, it will defeat the purpose of using the TIG in the first place. Also, since it requires both hands and a good deal of coordination you have to be able to get in a comfortable position where you can also see what you are doing well. Lastly, it is very time consuming.

I can stumble along with the TIG but I have not become an expert by any means. I am so used to the MIG, I just automatically reach for it.

John
I've had my TIG for around 8 years and it's got MAYBE 1/2 hr of use for all the same reasons. It just doesn't lend itself to restoration work well.
SOMEDAY, I'm going to build aluminum ramps for my trailer and then it will have paid for itself...
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  #4224 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2018, 09:33 PM
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Fingers crossed. Hope to prime the cowl tomorrow!

John

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  #4225 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2018, 02:02 PM
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Three wet coats of SPI Epoxy today. At this time there has not been the first ounce of body filler on the car. It has only been welded, ground and epoxied with the exception of the floorpans which have been painted.

That changes tomorrow when I get to begin mudding the firewall.



John







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  #4226 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2018, 02:10 PM
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I much rather have the mud than a wave,,lol.what is the color of the epoxy looks similar to the old red oxide.

BTW .looking good.
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  #4227 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I much rather have the mud than a wave,,lol.what is the color of the epoxy looks similar to the old red oxide.

BTW .looking good.
Thanks David. I would say it is a bit redder than the old laquer red oxide but it does remind you of it, for sure.

LOL, I was certainly not suggesting it did not need filler. Only that I had not used any yet. It definitely needs it. I think I can run an 11 inch booster on the left side and I am going to put the battery on the right side firewall (I think) so it is not going to show like a completely empty smooth panel.

It has to be slick enough for it to be kept clean though. There is nothing worse than a rough poorly finished panel that can not be cleaned and/or waxed.

John
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  #4228 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2018, 04:48 PM
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I was looking at the pics and thought I lost a day of my life. I thought it was paint. Then you said mud over the firewall and I thought you lost not a day but your sanity mudding over paint....I think I've lost something now.....DUH.....
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Old 04-24-2018, 04:49 PM
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DUDE...you got red paint all over my rotisserie...
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  #4230 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2018, 07:57 AM
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Thanks David. I would say it is a bit redder than the old laquer red oxide but it does remind you of it, for sure.

LOL, I was certainly not suggesting it did not need filler. Only that I had not used any yet. It definitely needs it. I think I can run an 11 inch booster on the left side and I am going to put the battery on the right side firewall (I think) so it is not going to show like a completely empty smooth panel.

It has to be slick enough for it to be kept clean though. There is nothing worse than a rough poorly finished panel that can not be cleaned and/or waxed.

John
I'm seeing what looks like grey epoxy on the body, red epoxy underneath, and I think I remember you using black epoxy some time back.
Any particular reason for using those colors where you did?
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