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  #4291 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2018, 08:50 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Looking good!

Brian

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  #4292 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2018, 06:03 PM
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One coat of epoxy mixed as sealer. Waited 2 hours and three coats of SPI dark red base. The base went on very well with very little trash which in itself is pretty amazing considering the shape my shop is in.

My new Iwata LPH 400 lost it's virginity. I was really impressed with the gun even though I do have a few small flow indicators. Tomorrow will see 3-4 coats of SPI Universal Clear if I don't loose a day fixing the small sags.



John





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  #4293 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:41 AM
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Nice.....


Flow indicators?
Sags?


Sounds like some creative use of the English language.....I like it.
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  #4294 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 05:02 PM
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I corrected the few runs in the base this morning. I used a razor blade with a small curve bent into it and a couple of layers of tape around the ends. After I had the areas shaved flat, I finished with 500 and 1200 grit paper and a hard rubber block.





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  #4295 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 05:19 PM
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Followed up this afternoon with three coats of SPI Universal Clear. I am very pleased with the flow and low orange peal but I do have more runs than I care to admit. They are all lower on the firewall which will make them easier to deal with.

Thankfully, the upper cowl and windshield frame came out without runs.

John





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  #4296 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 05:57 PM
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Very nice John.
Oh, and thanks for the run shaving tip.
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  #4297 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2018, 11:16 PM
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It is SOOOOOOOOO Cool seeing her get paint! OMG!

Brian
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  #4298 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:38 AM
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Dang, that looks N.I.C.E.!!!!!


What do you do for air handling when you're painting? If memory serves, your garage is under part of the house. I'm not seeing anything in the background of your pictures for air exchange or filtering. How do you keep the fumes from getting into the house?
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
Dang, that looks N.I.C.E.!!!!!


What do you do for air handling when you're painting? If memory serves, your garage is under part of the house. I'm not seeing anything in the background of your pictures for air exchange or filtering. How do you keep the fumes from getting into the house?
He LOVES the smell of paint....reminds him of how much money he is saving. Kind of like a septic pumper when they open a manhole...sniiiiiiiiif....smells like money to them...
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  #4300 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2018, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
Dang, that looks N.I.C.E.!!!!!


What do you do for air handling when you're painting? If memory serves, your garage is under part of the house. I'm not seeing anything in the background of your pictures for air exchange or filtering. How do you keep the fumes from getting into the house?
I am pretty excited. Not perfect but with a little finesse it will be very good.

I am fortunate that I have a window in the wall of the basement where I paint. I have a strong exhaust fan permanently mounted in it. When I paint, I wear a good reporator and run the exhaust fan. If you look at some of my pictures, you will see I have plastic sheeting that I un-roll to isolate that end of the shop.

Lastly, I run the exhaust fan for some hours after I finish with all the basement doors closed. That draws air down from the house and creates a vacuume effect so the fumes don't migrate up. It is pretty effective but there is still an odor for a few days. The truth of the matter is, there would be an odor if I painted it ten miles from here and pulled it in the basement with fresh paint on it.

Fortunately my wife has never complained.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
He LOVES the smell of paint....reminds him of how much money he is saving. Kind of like a septic pumper when they open a manhole...sniiiiiiiiif....smells like money to them...
Now you know why some people like Mitch until they get to know him better.

John
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  #4301 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:49 PM
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Now you know why some people like Mitch until they get to know him better.

John
See you at Pigeon Forge...
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  #4302 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
See you at Pigeon Forge...
LOL, Yupper, Looking forward to it. :

John
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  #4303 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2018, 09:08 PM
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There is not a lot to brag about but the chassis is getting closer to being ready to accept the body.

I painted and relocated the factory axle snubbers so they would work with the 9" Ford rear end.

Also hung the shocks





Next I moved on to creating a park brake linkage.

I started with a Falcon cable assembly that was designed to loop through a middle equalizer. I did not have an equalizer assembly but I did come up with a small pulley that was in a box of odds and ends that were dad's before he passed away. I used that with an old brake clevis and welded a threaded rod that will go to the bell crank assembly.





The bell crank assembly was made out of a piece of 3/16 stock that was part of the origional '53 park brake assembly, a steel spacer from the shock absorber mounting hardware and a piece of 1 1/2" square tubing.

This steel spacer became my bearing for the pivot.



I welded it to the 3/16 stock and cut a bracket out of the square tubing. Then I used a 1/2" clevis pin (which still needs to be shortened)

After drilling the chassis and mounting the assembly I have the working bell crank assembly. The pulley and adjustable rod connects to it.

Other than 3 bucks for the clevis pin it was free from junk I had around here. The brake cable was bought a year or so ago and were about 26 bucks from Bruin Cables. Since they were designed with a looping cable, one cable furnished ends for both brake assemblies. Once I had the equalizer built I cut the cable and spliced them back with a bullet style strand splice.







Not only does this get my cables terminated but it leaves me with a straight forward system to run my front cable to when the time comes.

I believe I will clean all this up, paint it, and move on to my brake lines and axle vent! Had a good few days!

Last edited by John long; 06-19-2018 at 09:35 PM.
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  #4304 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2018, 07:09 PM
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The runs in the firewall have been bugging me for a few days but so far I had not done anything about them. I thought there may be a few people who might be interested in my process for correcting my 3D image of Niagra Falls.

I keep a piece of a Vixon file that has been cut into a 1 1/2" piece and the edges rounded off. I sharpen it every once in a while with an old Harbor Freight diamond hone that I have had for years. On a flat surface I make one wrap of tape around the edge so It can't dig in. On a curved surface I would add more wraps so it would only cut a minor amount. Then I would remove one wrap and let it shave a little more, repeating until I had the surface flat.





The process is as easy as it could be. Just shave the run until it is gone. On a flat panel like this firewall it is very easy to dig in at the end so I did use a razor blade to finese it with at the very end.





After I had the surface flat and the runs removed I used a small aluminum hard block and 1000 grit wet and blocked the surface flat.



That is where I am now. I ordered some Chemical Guys compounds that I have heard Shine and a few others brag on. I thought I might try them myself. I will sand it with 1500, 2000, and finish with 3000. before buffing. Updates coming as I decide how and what works best.

One side note. After about 10 days the SPI Universal clear really sanded well. I am really anxious to get to the buffing part. The compound came today so the only thing holding me back is the shop time to get it done.

John
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  #4305 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2018, 07:48 PM
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Your method seems to be better than what I have been doing,,i tape each side of the run then sand Most of the run out with a small aluminum block with progessive finer paper until almost smooth,,but I normally let mine set for a few day or sometimes a week where I sanded to be sure it is completely dry under the thicker paint of the run..your way looks better..


mabe if I stick around and watch some of you might teach us kids something..

good job john ,waiting with anticipation,
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