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  #4306 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2018, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Your method seems to be better than what I have been doing,,i tape each side of the run then sand Most of the run out with a small aluminum block with progessive finer paper until almost smooth,,but I normally let mine set for a few day or sometimes a week where I sanded to be sure it is completely dry under the thicker paint of the run..your way looks better..


mabe if I stick around and watch some of you might teach us kids something..

good job john ,waiting with anticipation,
Waiting is a good idea David. I went to cut a run off my '57 Olds that was too soft and the file pulled the heart out of the sag. I was able to dab a bit of clear into the hole as it was not in a conspicuous spot. It definitely needs to sit long enough for the heart of the sag to dry.

It probably would not hurt to let this sit a couple of more days. The paint under the sag is probably still quite a bit softer than rest of the paint. I definitely will proceed cautiously if I get to work on it tomorrow.

John

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  #4307 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:22 PM
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I color sanded the firewall through 3000 wet today and buffed it using the Chemical Guy's system. I liked it a lot. They have a pad conditioner that really lubricates the pad and keeps it from dragging and getting hot as the compound dries.

The system is well priced and includes 4 compounds and polishes. They Also offer a sample kit with all four in 4 oz bottles.....Pretty cool.

I blocked the firewall with 1000 grit first. I had only put 3 wet coats of clear on it and was afraid to be too aggressive with block sanding it. Especially, since it's not bone flat, I was afraid I would cut through if I got carried away.





One of the really cool things was how well the SPI Universal clear sanded and buffed after almost two weeks. Had this been the old PPG 2020 or 2010 I believe it would have been like trying to color sand concrete. It certainly would not have gone like it did today.



One last comment. I only did the firewall. Not the whole cowl. This will allow me to put the body permenantly back on the chassis and get it shimmed. Without having to worry about buffing around the engine, M/C or battery.

BTW, I did not cut through the clear anywhere.

John

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  #4308 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:42 PM
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One more quick update. I did get my fuel line run up the outside of the frame rail. I am attempting to keep it as far from the exhaust heat as possible.






My next task was running the brake lines. First was the rear axle line and then the line to the front. The axle vent still needs to be run but I have not decided exactly how I want to do it.





Last but not least, I painted the bell crank assembly for the park brake and installed it back into the chassis.

At this point it truly is about time to get this body and frame married!

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  #4309 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 02:37 PM
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looks good john . i love CG system . been using it for around 30 years. i've played with many others but always come back to it.
i bought a fleetline this week. lose to your rag top but just don't think i want to replace the bottom 6 inches of a car anymore. lot of good parts so it was worth the money .
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  #4310 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
looks good john . i love CG system . been using it for around 30 years. i've played with many others but always come back to it.
i bought a fleetline this week. lose to your rag top but just don't think i want to replace the bottom 6 inches of a car anymore. lot of good parts so it was worth the money .
Shine, what is the CG system? I'm having a brain freeze. Just trying to learn from you guys.
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  #4311 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 04:26 PM
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Chemical Guys compounds.
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  #4312 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
looks good john . i love CG system . been using it for around 30 years. i've played with many others but always come back to it.
i bought a fleetline this week. lose to your rag top but just don't think i want to replace the bottom 6 inches of a car anymore. lot of good parts so it was worth the money .
I know you have been looking for a good one to build. I understand not wanting to start with a ruff car. I have really enjoyed this journey but at 73 I can pretty well assure you this will be my last 5 year project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 22george View Post
Shine, what is the CG system? I'm having a brain freeze. Just trying to learn from you guys.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
Chemical Guys compounds.
I had read several of Shine's posts concerning the Chemical Guy's compounds as well as their Hexlogic buffing pads. I purchased all four of their compounds and 3 of their pads. Orange, white, and black. I also bought their pad conditioner and pad cleaner. The total cost was 102 bucks.

What impressed me most was how little material it takes as well as how cool the pads remained when using the conditioner. The end result was superb and, by the way, they have a flat $2.99 shipping fee.

All and all, Chemical Guys have a new customer and I am extremely pleased with the results!

John
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  #4313 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2018, 09:39 PM
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i'll know more when i get it opened up and wash all the coon **** out of it . looks like one was living in the trunk . i could handle floors and rockers but they dont make any patched for the door bottoms. i have another one located but the guys are known to not deal on anything.

chemical guys run specials all the time. when you buy new pads you can usually get free cleaner or conditioner.
i use both. i clean my pad after three applications of compound. dead clear doesn't polish very well .
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  #4314 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2018, 07:43 AM
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John,
That firewall & cowl look FANTASTIC.
At one point I almost had a SS looking like that on a small project, but then I sanded through when trying to get it juuuuust a little better.
Live & learn, I guess. And admire the handiwork of those that can get it right!




Have you tried or heard of the nickel-copper brake line?
I was working on a bus with a friend, and he introduced me to it. It cuts, bends, and flares soooo much easier than the normal steel lines. Supposed to not rust, either. And yes, it is pressure rated for brake line service.
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  #4315 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2018, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
John,
That firewall & cowl look FANTASTIC.
At one point I almost had a SS looking like that on a small project, but then I sanded through when trying to get it juuuuust a little better.
Live & learn, I guess. And admire the handiwork of those that can get it right!




Have you tried or heard of the nickel-copper brake line?
I was working on a bus with a friend, and he introduced me to it. It cuts, bends, and flares soooo much easier than the normal steel lines. Supposed to not rust, either. And yes, it is pressure rated for brake line service.
Thanks Dan. I had heard of it but knew little about it when I ordered the brake line last year. If I had it to do again, I think I would use it. The steel works well enough though IF YOU HAVE A QUALITY double flaring tool. My Autozone flaring tool was challenged on the larger sizes.

John
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  #4316 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2018, 09:34 AM
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LOVE that nickle/copper tubing. I use the 3/8 size for fuel, PCV and vacuum brake booster lines too...
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  #4317 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2018, 07:23 PM
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Thanks Shine and John for the info
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  #4318 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Thanks Dan. I had heard of it but knew little about it when I ordered the brake line last year. If I had it to do again, I think I would use it. The steel works well enough though IF YOU HAVE A QUALITY double flaring tool. My Autozone flaring tool was challenged on the larger sizes.

John
My problem wasn't that it was difficult to flare.
Maybe it was me, or the line, or the tool, or just a really bad day, I've had a few episodes where I would almost have a steel line flared, and then it would split length-wise in the flared portion.
One night under a friend's car, I think I ended up flaring the same stupid piece 5-6 times before I could get it flared without splitting.
Thankfully, we had bought a longer piece than we thought we needed, because we ended up needing a lot more than we thought.
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  #4319 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2018, 05:30 PM
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LOL, my problem with brake lines is stupidity. David (496CHEVY3100) came by this morning and while I was showing him my chassis it hit me like a ton of bricks. I had run my brake lines accross the rear end absolutely centered under the rear axle snubbers! DUH.......

I re-did them today but I promise it was not fun this time.

Here is what I did the first time.



And the second time.



I had hoped to get the chassis under the body today but alas, "the best made plans of mice and men......"

The body is just hanging around waiting for a chassis .

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  #4320 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2018, 07:05 PM
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You would have made it if I had not been up hindering you,,

The likes look better ran like that,and no chance of the rubber snubbers hitting them.
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