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  #4501 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I use an old gun and spray pot i like the not having to hold the weight and it will fit in lots of places and spray upside down,,But that is a big word,,i was looking at it sunday i forgot to clean it out when i installed the carpet in my truck,,,Dont think it will be useable agair,

I actually use vinyl top adhesive instead of contact cement.
Ouch. Laquer thinner will cut it eventually but it is a slow process. Not sure it is worth the trouble for a pressure pot but I did clean out the siphon gun once.

John

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Old 09-17-2018, 05:59 PM
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Barb and I just got back from the Monday night cruise in and this is what was waiting for us on the porch!

John

Woops. Wrong thread. Sorry........
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  #4503 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Barb and I just got back from the Monday night cruise in and this is what was waiting for us on the porch!

John

Woops. Wrong thread. Sorry........

Nah, posting about an enjoyable evening with your bride is never wrong. Hope you kids had a good time.
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  #4504 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 07:03 PM
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Good things come to Great people,,What a sunset,
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  #4505 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 10:33 PM
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Looking so damn good, wow.

Brian
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  #4506 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2018, 03:58 PM
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The dash has been sanded with 180 and 8 or 9 little spots touched up with glazing putty here.



The glaze was sanded with 180 here.



And finally, the I have started doing the final blocking with 280 dry. This is the first time I have used dry guide coat. At this time, I am not sure whether I like it better but it has to be cheaper in the long run.

Once I have it blocked with the 280 with a hard block, I will put 2 more coats of epoxy on it, wet block it with 400 and shoot it. I do still need to decide how much I want to flatten it though. i have spray out cards primed ready to shoot some color and flattened clear on.

John


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Old 09-26-2018, 07:32 AM
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John,
What makes doing the blocking as wet sanding more expensive than dry sanding?
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  #4508 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2018, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_dan View Post
John,
What makes doing the blocking as wet sanding more expensive than dry sanding?
The referance to price was regarding the guide coat Dan. It comes in spray cans which is what I have always used in the past.

This time I am trying out a dry guide coat that is a black powder which is rubbed on with a pad that comes with it. The cost of wet or dry sanding is the same other than wet/dry paper is slightly higher.

John
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  #4509 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2018, 04:25 PM
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The dash was primed with SPI epoxy and blocked with 180 dry. It then received 2 more coats of epoxy and was blocked with 280. Today I mixed more epoxy and shot 2 more coats.

There are two ways I can paint the Champaign. I can block it with 400, seal it with a reduced coat of epoxy and shoot it or I can block the epoxy with 600 and shoot the color without a sealer coat. I'm honestly not sure which way I will do it but either way will be fine.

John

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  #4510 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2018, 05:12 PM
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Just me,,NOT saying you should do the same,,if I am painting a Flat or Semi Gloss,which I normally spray 30% flatting agent,,not flat,my final sand is 400 grit since it leaves no sand scratches or no enough to show thru the paint,but I feel it leaves enough tooth for the first coat of Color ,then build up to final coat of color then 30% flatt clear on a dash or garnish mouldings and,when not painting over Old paint I dont use a sealer,,like I say this is me,Not saying this is the only way to do it.


Something similar to this,,it seems to match the leather or what ever you us better thab a glosss
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  #4511 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2018, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Just me,,NOT saying you should do the same,,if I am painting a Flat or Semi Gloss,which I normally spray 30% flatting agent,,not flat,my final sand is 400 grit since it leaves no sand scratches or no enough to show thru the paint,but I feel it leaves enough tooth for the first coat of Color ,then build up to final coat of color then 30% flatt clear on a dash or garnish mouldings and,when not painting over Old paint I dont use a sealer,,like I say this is me,Not saying this is the only way to do it.


Something similar to this,,it seems to match the leather or what ever you us better thab a glosss
I agree with you 100% David. There is no need for sealer on top of fresh epoxy. I just thought 400 might be a little coarse for a light metalic base and it takes so much longer to level it with 600. I have enough epoxy left to shoot one reduced sealer coat making it totally safe to shoot the metalic over the 400.

If 400 is safe to to use under flattened metalic I have no issue and no reason to seal. I will level it with 400 wet and shoot it. BTW, I have also decided to go with 30% flattener in my clear.

John
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  #4512 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2018, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I agree with you 100% David. There is no need for sealer on top of fresh epoxy. I just thought 400 might be a little coarse for a light metalic base and it takes so much longer to level it with 600. I have enough epoxy left to shoot one reduced sealer coat making it totally safe to shoot the metalic over the 400.

If 400 is safe to to use under flattened metalic I have no issue and no reason to seal. I will level it with 400 wet and shoot it. BTW, I have also decided to go with 30% flattener in my clear.

John
I forgot it was Metallic,,yes at Least a 600.youare 100% correct.
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  #4513 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2018, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
I forgot it was Metallic,,yes at Least a 600.youare 100% correct.
That was my only reason to consider a sealer coat. It would protect me from rogue sand svratches showing through.

John
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  #4514 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2018, 02:27 PM
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The choice I finally made was to final block the dash with a firm rubber block and 400 paper wet. Second I sprayed guide coat on again and blocked a final time with 600.

This is 3 coats of a Chrysler light metalic Champaign.



I did get a little sag that I blocked out with 800 and dusted 3 light coats of base on the repaied area.

Here is the final product with two coats of SPI Universal Clear with 30% SPI liquid flattening agent added. This picture was taken about 2 hours after it was shot. It would not surprize me to see it flatten out a little more. It will be fine with me either way.

John




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  #4515 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2018, 02:40 PM
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The contrasting color looks great,,good work.
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